dgoldak

I've been searching all over the internet and asking people I know but I'm not able to find an answer, hopefully someone here can help. I'm usually about to search and find known problems but so far no luck.

Around the beginning of the summer my 01 Honda Civic EX started experiencing a split second loss of power when driving down the road. I might also describe it as a stutter or small jerk but it's never stopped the engine or the car. After that split second everything is fine. At night, during the "split second loss of power" my wife says the the dash light might flicker or dim as well as the head lights but it happens quickly. During the day I noticed the light on the dash that shows what gear you are in flickered and SRS light comes on for a second or two then disappears. The stereo does not seem to be affected.

The issue seems to be completely random, might happen twice on a thirty minute drive or only twice in one week but on a hour drive it usually happens at least once. This issue seems to have started around it started getting hot outside, 90+ degrees. It seems like the issue went away when it cooled down for about two weeks at the beginning of the spring/summer but since this issue is intermittent I'm not 100% the weather is related but I want to say it is related.

One additional issue, the car will occasionally die at a stop light but it's turns right back on. So far it's happened about 4 or 5 times this summer.

Few notes:
I had the battery checked today at the parts store and it checked out good.
It happens regardless of the A/C ON or OFF.
A friend thought it sounded like a vacuum problem

I'm afraid to take it to a mechanic and this turn into a guess and check game which turns into a $700 bill and the issue still happening. And if that's what it comes to I would rather to some of the things I can do myself first. Thanks in advance!

dgoldak

Update on this issue:
We noticed the car having this issue more often this weekend. The dash lights did not dim (no sure about headlights since we were in the city) and there is a clicking sound when it happens, like to clicks on the passenger side of the car. It sounds like a clicking sound when you change gears, from park to driver. Also, every time this happens the gear light on the dashboard turns off for about 2 seconds as described above but never noticed the SRS light come on.

Also, took it to Honda, they checked for trouble codes, they found P1298 stored in the PCM and noted ELD rec. replace ELD.

Any ideas?

suzukirm

did u figure this one out ? i got the same exact issue on my 2005 same model car. i cant seem to find the problem. we replaced the alt and battery is fine. exactly what u described mine is doing. its starting to rattle me

RSKtakR

Did either of you ever figure out this problem? My 01 Civic EX coupe with manual trans is doing it too but I see no signs of any lights diming on the dash and I get zero check engine lights or maintenance required lights.. I'm going crazy. So far I have replaced:


-Alternator (was replaced when new motor was installed about 5k miles ago).
-Battery (was replaced when it was bitter cold here a month or so ago) This problem started shortly after new battery was installed.



In the past 5 days
-New fuel pump assembly.
-Cam angle sensor was loose two days ago, so I tightened it up.
-New spark plugs.
-New coil packs.
-Fuel pump relay
-New core support to head ground strap with good clean contact.
-New negative battery terminal with ground strap attached to body and to the transmission with good clean contact.

Wankenstein

Clean all chassis and engine ground contacts points. Then do an ECU relearn.

RSKtakR

I thought about doing an ECU relearn yesterday since I cleaned and replaced the two ground contact points that I know of (core support to side of the head, the second ground point that is right next to that, and the entire Negative terminal/lead with clean contact points) but I would think there are more? I forget the process of the ECU relearn, but I will look it up.

Wankenstein

Google for grounds diagram and ECU relearn.

ECU relearn:
1) disconnect negative battery terminal
2) turn on headlights and pump brake pedal to dissipate residual charge
3) wait 5 minutes
4) reconnect negative terminal to battery
5) make sure all electronics are off
6) start car and let it idle until radiator fan cyles on twice (roughly 10-15 minutes).
7) turn engine off

NDNV

Electrical contacts in the ignition switch and main fuel relays going bad are the 2 most common issues that come to mind here.

RSKtakR

I have replaced the fuel pump relay and I (as well as other people here and at Honda) don't think the car is showing symptoms of the ignition switch problems. I have tried over and over again to wiggle the key around and nothing strange has happened. Another reason we don't think its the ignition switch is because when the car dies for a split second, none of the dash/gauge lights or radio go off as if the ignition was turned off, they all stay on.

As of right now, I pulled the crank position sensor out and found out that is was kind of marred up from the cam sensor bolt coming all the way out. I replaced the crank sensor and put a new timing belt on (the belt also had a gouge in it). I put it all back together and started it, had an immediate CE light come on and the motor feels like it sputters some so I'm pretty sure I have the timing belt one tooth off. I will be pulling it all back apart tonight to redo the timing belt correctly. I will post results afterwards.

All that being said, is there another "main" relay that I could check/replace if its not to terribly expensive that might be doing this if its not the crank sensor? I will post a pic of the crank sensor I pulled out so everyone can see how much damage the bolt did to it.

ezone

Pull codes first, make sure WHY it turned on the CEL (NO GUESSING).....Inspect the terminals visible inside the CKP harness connector for any signs of liquid entry and terminal corrosion.

OEM crank sensor, or aftermarket? Was the brand on the sensor the same as the original?

You didn't drop the crank timing gear on the floor and damage any of the little trigger nubs on it, did you?

RSKtakR

i don't want to drive the car to the parts store to pull the code. I think I'll try to manually do it at home maybe by finding that blue plug in the passenger side floor board and shorting it out.

Oem crank sensor, yes both say denso.

As as far as I know it's never been dropped and It looks fine.

I just pulled everything off and put the crank on top dead center with the arrow on the block and mark on crank piece. I also got the cam gear in the correct position (up points up, both marks on the front and back of the gear are even with the head). I didn't put the front cover, crank pulley, power steering, or alternator back on, I made sure all the connections were plugged in and out of the way of the timing belt. The battery was unhooked for a while. The car started up the exact same way... 3 or 4 cranks (not normal) then it starts and immediate CE light and it still seems like it has a slight miss.

ezone

Doesn't have one. Separate SCS connector was last used on 2000 Civic.

Gotta jumper certain pins in the OBD2 plug. Search here for it (I think 4 and 9, but needs verified)

RSKtakR

Damn

Does the location of those pins on the crank seem to be to far out past the crank sensor in my pic?

I put the old crank sensor in and it started the exact same way and had the CE light. I'm gonna have to buy a scanner I think. Might be a good idea since I have two 01-05 civics now I guess.

ezone

I suppose you've been trying to run the engine without the crank pulley bolted on it? DO NOT do that, the timing gear has backed away from the block. Bad bad bad.

You should not be able to see that much of the teeth exposed....the little teeth have to align with the center of the CKP sensor in order to trigger it.


Install crank pulley correctly and retry.





Nice of you to put the pic up there after I replied LOL

RSKtakR

Ok I thought it had backed far away as well. I'll mess with it tomorrow. Sorry about posting the pic late lol. I've never posted a pic here before so I didn't know if it would work or not lol

ezone

Timing belt drive teeth

Triggers for the sensor, like little spokes around the outer edge of the gear.


I probably used the word 'teeth' a little too much.

RSKtakR

I understood your jibberish haha. Any reason that gear would be so far out and not pulled back in or is it because the crank pulley isn't on?

ezone

Because the crank pulley HAS TO BE ON THERE

RSKtakR

Got it.

RSKtakR

Ok pushed the timing belt pulley on the crank back, put the big pulley on the crank. Car still took like 4 turns before it stared, then had the CE light. I push the gas a little and as the motor comes back down to idle I can hear it backfire a little in the exhaust. Then as its idling, the car starts to die and the green security key comes on as its dying. Car won't start now, it just cranks. All the timing marks are still in the correct place. I reinstalled the old crank sensor and it still doesn't start. I don't have my compression gauge with me but just a hose with the fittings on both ends. I pulled all the plugs out one at a time and manually turned the motor and the bursts of air are all the same consistent sound/pressure it seems but no gauge to be sure. It cranks like it has no compression tho. I checked for a spark and there isn't a spark now lol wtf.

So to recap I've replaced:
Fuel pump
Fuel pump relay
Spark plugs
Coil packs
Crank sensor

If there's no spark is the factory security system acting up somehow? Only things spark related left to replace would be the cam sensor and ecu and harness right? The green key doesn't come on when I turn the key to the on position when using a factory or after market/programmed key. The cars front end is up in the air with about 3" of space under the front tires if that would make any difference but it was running just fine like that lastnight too.

ezone

You've been running it without an alternator belt....?

Did the battery die?

RSKtakR

Been starting it and running no longer than literally a minute. Battery isn't dead at all and its brand new as well.

ezone

Where is the alternator belt?

But has either pulley slipped on the shaft? (keyway damage)

RSKtakR

Both PS and alt belts are completely removed as well as the alternator. The PS is set out of the way with its reservoir.

Absolutely no key way damage, it's still in new shape.

ezone

Ok...whats the code?


What does this light do now?
Key on = blinking?
Key off = blinking?

RSKtakR

I wasn't able to get a code because I dont have a scanner and can't get the car to the autozone to get it checked. I'll just have to buy a scanner I think.

No green key light at all.. With the key on or off, doors locked or unlocked, factory alarm armed or unarmed.

ezone

That light is supposed to come on for like 2 seconds when you turn the key ON...
And blink like maybe 5 times after you turn the key OFF.

Somebody lost power or something?

Check all fuses in both fuse boxes

Main relays?

RSKtakR

I thought it was suppose to blink a couple times as well. I'll check fuses and probably reinstall the alternator tomorrow after work and see what happens. I'm borrowing a scanner from a friend tomorrow or Saturday to check the codes too. I wouldn't know which main relays to check off the top of my head. I'll look around online tomorrow at work and see what I can find.

ezone

Main and fuel pump relays are behind the glovebox....but check ALL fuses first. (engine compartment fusebox and dash fusebox)

Anything else weird electrical happening?

RSKtakR

I replaced the fuel pump relay last week but I still have the old one to swap out if need be. I'll find a replacement Honda main relay too just incase I need to get one. The car has 261k miles so if it's cheap I'll just go ahead and get a new one anyways. I'll check all fuses in both boxes tomorrow and post results.

Nothing else that I know of other than this same problem over the past week.. Yet

Thanks again.