felixb555

ok here i a crazy issue about a week ago i was driving along the free way and car went into limp mood i drove home it seemed to work fine after about an have hour of sitting.took it over to local aut parts aand it had 2 misfire codes and on 02 sensor code replaced spark plugs and 02 sensor light went off and fine.now today driving along on the freeway and again same issue no over heat no check engine light it doesnt do it everyday.just seems to do it intermitently....has anyone have any odeas on this issue...please help me out....

lazlong

Scan it for codes again and post the exact code. Just because the the light isn't on doesn't mean it hasn't set a code in memory.

felixb555

these are the codes its pulling right now.p1361 p1362 and p0420.....its crazy i drove all day today and nothing happen.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

sounds serious, possibly could cause engine damage if you keep driving. i would say replace the TDC sensor asap and get a new honda cat converter. and problem solved.

P1361 TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption (top dead center sensor, tells the ecu how the engine is moving)

P1362 TDC Sensor No Signal

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) (sounds like you need a new cat converter. you could try changing the primary oxygen sensor first, but i doubt its that)

felixb555

ok i just dont want to continue to put money in this car.....does any of this sound like the crank shaft play deal where u need to replace the head to fix.ive been reading and im starting to think so.i just dont want to dump money into this car and then wind up having to drop another 2000 on it to replace the heads.thankd for the info by the way ur opinion is apreciated.

lazlong

First look for a bad wire/connector at the sensor and along the harness. The sensor is here:


Second:

1. With the ignition OFF, disconnect the sensor connector. Then turn the ignition to ON(II).

2. Measure voltage from the YEL/BLK wire to body ground.

Is there battery voltage?

YES- step3

NO- repair the wire between the PGM-FI main relay and the CMP(TDC) sensor.

3. Measure voltage between the GRN wire and body ground.

Is there about 5V?

YES- step 4

NO- step 6

4. Measure voltage between the BRN/YEL wire and YEL/BLK wire.

Is the battery voltage?

YES- step 5

NO- Repair the wire between the CMP(TDC) sensor and G101 (the ground going from the block to the radiator support)

5. Substitute a known-good sensor and recheck.

Is it still throwing P1361 or P1362?

YES- Update or replace the ECM/PCM

NO- It needed that new sensor, you should be good to go.

6. Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector A26 and body ground. (connector A is the only 31 pin connector and is the bottom connector. terminal 26 is the only GRN wire on that connector) **Notice I didn't say to disconnect the connector**

Is there about 5V?

YES- Repair the wire between ECM/PCM A26 and CMP(TDC) sensor.

NO- step 7

7. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect ECM/PCM connector A(31P).

8. Check for continuity (Ohms) between A26 (GRN wire) and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES- repair the wire between ECM/PCM A26 and CMP(TDC) sensor

NO- update or replace the ECM/PCM

NOTE: If you can't find the bad part of the wire just run a new wire. Make sure it's the same gauge.


For P0420: Replace the sensor(s) and if that doesn't do it then replace the cat. You need to change the sensors when you change the cat anyways. None of this will do you any good unless you get that sensor problem fixed- it's probably what made the cat go bad in the first place.

If you, want to go cheaper (and don't have to meet emissions) get headers and do the sensor trick: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...on-w-pics.html

new cat-$600+ new sensors-$400= $1000 VS headers $100-300+ sparkplug non-foulers-$10= $100-300 (roughly)

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

you really need to replace the sensor. i think thats the only issue as far as the engine running poorly other than the cat which is prolly either clogged or bad. doesnt sound like any other problems.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

The TDC sensor is a bit intrusive to replace, but that would solve your limp mode problems. Also, if your cat was really bad, it would illuminate the CEL. I think with the code stored like that, it's an intermittent code, much like your car giving you a forewarning that your cat may go bad soon.

To replace the TDC sensor, you have to remove the valve cover which allows you to remove the upper timing belt cover. The sensor is held on by one bolt, a bolt I would recommend putting thread lock on when replacing the sensor. I failed to do so, and the bolt vibrated loose after a couple thousand miles, eating my timing belt, resulting in all 16 valves being bent.

It's a (relatively) quick DIY job. It'll prolly take you an hour or two, depending on your mechanical ability. Really, all you need for this job is a 10mm and 12mm sockets, and some socket extensions.

lazlong

And some Hondabond for the valve cover gasket.

lazlong

I hope this isn't it but, come to find out there is a TSB on this because of to much camshaft end-play.

Check here for TSBs: http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/24/012.../012436aJ.html

Honda361

I'm having almost the same problem I recently changed my cylinder head on my 2002 Honda Civic ex automatic and when I start the car it starts up perfectly now when I put it in drive the car will rev up to 3000rpms but the car would take off super slow untill it reaches a good speed now when I stop and put it in D2 n take off it takes off perfect n I have to manually shift it to drive... now after I do that a drive for about 15 minutes my car goes into limp mode.... I bought a transmission hopefully that will fix it but any other options would be great thank u

Honda361

did that fix ur issue cause I got the same car as u and I changed the transmission and now when I put it in drive it show d3 did this happen to u and if so how do I fix It