Squeaky Alternator Belt
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Hey guys,
This problem just started out of nowhere, and I'm not sure if its a coincidence that the weather is finally above zero during the days now. Whenever the engine is started or accelerated, there is a slight squeal (~2 seconds). I don't think it is a tension problem, since it seems to be as tight as usual. I have owned the car for 3 years, and haven't changed the belt, but the previous owner may have.
Do you guys think that the belt is in need of a change, the belt is dirty, or maybe even the pulleys. Either way, it sounds like something is slipping.
How easy is this belt to change anyway? I have never changed a belt in such a tight space, it looks a bit tricky.
Thanks for your help!
This problem just started out of nowhere, and I'm not sure if its a coincidence that the weather is finally above zero during the days now. Whenever the engine is started or accelerated, there is a slight squeal (~2 seconds). I don't think it is a tension problem, since it seems to be as tight as usual. I have owned the car for 3 years, and haven't changed the belt, but the previous owner may have.
Do you guys think that the belt is in need of a change, the belt is dirty, or maybe even the pulleys. Either way, it sounds like something is slipping.
How easy is this belt to change anyway? I have never changed a belt in such a tight space, it looks a bit tricky.
Thanks for your help!
#2
Re: Squeaky Alternator Belt
If you look at the belt does it look cracked or dried out? The belts are cheap I would just replace them. I would look for a DIY on how to do it. Your first time they are a little tricky. Good Luck
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The belts look in good shape. Its a little hard to see the condition of the alternator belt since its so tucked away though. I'll look for a DIY, hopefully that will clear things up. Thanks man
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Funny I just kind of posted this in a different part of the forum. Here is a quick DIY on removing the alternator belt:
You must start by removing the power steering pump. which is done like this:
Then the alternator which is done like this:
The hardest part is to get the deflection right but you can do it. You can also get a belt deflection gauge if you are unsure. I think they are maximum 15 dollars. Sorry for the quoting but you get the idea without me editing it all out.
You must start by removing the power steering pump. which is done like this:
This is how you remove the p/s pump... also how to release the tension off the pump itself:
Remove the adjusting plate mounting bolt (A), locknut (B) and mounting bolt (C), then remove the power steering (P/S) pump belt (D) and pump without disconnecting the P/S hoses.
I'l make one up for the alternator in a sec.
Remove the adjusting plate mounting bolt (A), locknut (B) and mounting bolt (C), then remove the power steering (P/S) pump belt (D) and pump without disconnecting the P/S hoses.
I'l make one up for the alternator in a sec.
I was wrong, you loosen the wingnut first, then the two bolts.
Loosen the adjusting bolt (A), and remove the lock bolt (B) and mounting bolt (C), then remove the alternator belt and alternator.
Basically, once you swing the p/s pump out of the way you can get to the alt... although its still tight. Watch your hands when moving the alt around it's easy to get them caught underneath and it hurts like a BITCH.
You won't be able to remove the mounting bolt (C) all the way... you can just pull it back far enough until it hits the inner fender to remove the alternator.
Loosen the adjusting bolt (A), and remove the lock bolt (B) and mounting bolt (C), then remove the alternator belt and alternator.
Basically, once you swing the p/s pump out of the way you can get to the alt... although its still tight. Watch your hands when moving the alt around it's easy to get them caught underneath and it hurts like a BITCH.
You won't be able to remove the mounting bolt (C) all the way... you can just pull it back far enough until it hits the inner fender to remove the alternator.
The hardest part is to get the deflection right but you can do it. You can also get a belt deflection gauge if you are unsure. I think they are maximum 15 dollars. Sorry for the quoting but you get the idea without me editing it all out.
#5
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Re: Squeaky Alternator Belt
7th gen Vics don't require a crow/prybar to move the alternator? I remember I had to change mine and it was ridiculous how much effort it took to move that thing.
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Haha really? I've been looking around and I've found a couple good threads...
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...squealing.html
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...upgrade-2.html (steps 4 through 9)
I cannot seem to find out what year of civic these threads are for though. Do all the 7th gens have similar drive belts?
I think that this alternator belt could be my problem. At first I didn't even realize there was a second belt besides the obvious one on top which was running the PS.
Would you recommend going through the drivers-side wheel well? Hopefully I can access all the bolts without having to take the power steering pump and belt off...
Thanks for those instructions man, I'm going to give that a try later on.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...squealing.html
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...upgrade-2.html (steps 4 through 9)
I cannot seem to find out what year of civic these threads are for though. Do all the 7th gens have similar drive belts?
I think that this alternator belt could be my problem. At first I didn't even realize there was a second belt besides the obvious one on top which was running the PS.
Would you recommend going through the drivers-side wheel well? Hopefully I can access all the bolts without having to take the power steering pump and belt off...
Thanks for those instructions man, I'm going to give that a try later on.
Last edited by jb039; 04-22-2011 at 11:19 AM.
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Well, I got in there and found that all the bolts were tight, and that the tension on the belt was perfect. Also, the belts look in very good condition, not a single fray or crack that I can see.
I have heard the term "glazed belt" before, what exactly does this mean? Could it be that my belt is just dirty and in need of a good under the hood cleaning. We finally have some nice weather around here, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
I have heard the term "glazed belt" before, what exactly does this mean? Could it be that my belt is just dirty and in need of a good under the hood cleaning. We finally have some nice weather around here, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
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A "glazed belt" looks melted. Also, when looking at the belt look to see how deep the grooves are- if they're too deep it can slip too.
And yes, you can do it from the wheel well but, you have to loosen the P/S pump from up top and remove the inner fender.
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I was also wondering why bolt D would have to be loosened to adjust the tension? Or is just that just for removing the alternator? What does that bolt thread into?
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^^ I don't know really why but, I tried just loosening B and C and I still had to loosen D to get the compressor to move enough. Try it, you may get lucky.
btw: It's very refreshing to talk to a new poster that isn't brain dead and knows how to use search. +1
btw: It's very refreshing to talk to a new poster that isn't brain dead and knows how to use search. +1
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^^^
Bolt D doesn't need to be removed, that attaches the alternator bracket to the engine block, you only need to loosen bolt C and B.
I just replaced my belts due to a pretty severe squeak, I could here it over the radio lol. The belts themselves really don't look to be in that bad of condition, but they were definitely toast.
Bolt D doesn't need to be removed, that attaches the alternator bracket to the engine block, you only need to loosen bolt C and B.
I just replaced my belts due to a pretty severe squeak, I could here it over the radio lol. The belts themselves really don't look to be in that bad of condition, but they were definitely toast.
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Thanks for all the help guys, I think I'm going to give it a bit of tightening. If the squeaking doesn't go away, I'll try a new belt.
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the bolt D is supposed to keep the plate in position. If you could move, then it was kind of loose. If tight, i suppose the plate would not change the angle to adjust
and i back lazlong on that - +1 for a newbie that does search and research just can't do at this point cos my reps seem to give a lot more points than before...
and i back lazlong on that - +1 for a newbie that does search and research just can't do at this point cos my reps seem to give a lot more points than before...
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Make sure you don't overtighten it because it can frazzle your bearings. Your picture looks pretty similar to mine near the top of the thread
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