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Do you have a repair manual? Sometimes when you disconnect the battery for long periods of time, and go to start it, it'll run like crap. You have to do a restart mode, the manual states how to do it. You basically run it at a certian rpm, like 2000, until the fans kick on, and then let it idel, etc. I don't know the exact procedure, but I'd bet that's what you need to do.
I've worked on my car many times, and it's only done this to me once. I just had to run it awhile, and it was back to normal.
Hello,
I just finished my timing belt today. Needless to say, when I start the car it idles really rough. The engine won't shut off either. It will just run. It seems like the idle is a bit low as well. I'm 99.99999% sure that I had all the timing marks line up properly and that the motor was at TDC. And all the belts are properly tensioned. I also had the battery out over night. Before I go out and hold the accelerator down and blow up the motor. Is there anyone that confirm the 'motor reset'? I've looked in my O-manual and the Haynes Manual and I can't find anything like this.
Any help would be great!
Also, I can confirm that the ABS system is a complete pain in the ass when doing the t-belt.
Thanks,
Adam Kress
akress.com
enzochi@gmail com
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I just finished my timing belt today. Needless to say, when I start the car it idles really rough. The engine won't shut off either. It will just run. It seems like the idle is a bit low as well. I'm 99.99999% sure that I had all the timing marks line up properly and that the motor was at TDC. And all the belts are properly tensioned. I also had the battery out over night. Before I go out and hold the accelerator down and blow up the motor. Is there anyone that confirm the 'motor reset'? I've looked in my O-manual and the Haynes Manual and I can't find anything like this.
Any help would be great!
Also, I can confirm that the ABS system is a complete pain in the ass when doing the t-belt.
Thanks,
Adam Kress
akress.com
enzochi@gmail com
The engine wont shut off? When you turn the key off, it keeps running?
It the Haynes manual, look at section 5-2, it's the PCM idle learn procedure.
Perform the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure, as follows:
Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are off.
Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 ºF (90 ºC).
Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
Thanks for the reply's. I will re-check the haynes manual tonight when I get home. I've been told by a few people that it is off by one tooth. This morning I held the engine at 2000 RPM. At 2K the motor did sound a bit unhealthy. That is why I would think that it's a tooth off. I didn't push it past 2K though and the 'Check Engine' light came on too. Also, when I had it apart and I turned the motor by hand it turned over easily by hand. I didn't have to force it. So I know the valves aren't hitting.
Oh, and it will shut off when I turn the key off. The engine won't stall when running...
also, the ABS system is just in the way.. it's a PITA. And to add some fuel to the fire. My stereo now has an ERR2 on the screen. I'm not sure what that means yet.
Last edited by Enzochi; 06-29-2009 at 01:05 PM.
Reason: forgot something.
Did you move either the crank or cam pulley after taking the belt off?
When I took mine off I did not have to move either, because it was already at TDC. The belt never slipped a tooth. When I put the new one on it just slipped right on perfectly.
It sounds like you are going to have to pull a spark plug and be very very careful and take your time. ( I know that really doesn't help)
__________________ Have you paid your dues jack? The check is in the mail
I think the crank pully moved a bit. I'm going to get out the laser lever to check the cam later today. And try the straw down the spark plug tube to make damn sure that it's at TDC. I have some pictures here -> http://www.flickr.com/photos/enzochi/3675451976/
The only real mistake I made so far is not marking the old belt before I took it off. I'm just not 100% sure on how much tension to put on the belt between the crank and cam pully. And that is where I think it's off a tooth. It seems like there is too much slack there.
Last edited by Enzochi; 06-30-2009 at 02:57 PM.
Reason: i can't type sometimes!
Just got the motor back together. It was off by one tooth. I moved it one tooth counter clockwise on the cam pulley. The problem I was (I think) having was when I put the spring from the tensioner back on the post it was knocking the crank pulley out of TDC. So I marked the teeth on the cam with a marker, unsprung the tensioner, moved the belt, then put the spring back into place. Everything lined up perfectly. I turned it over by hand a couple of times and both cam and crank stayed in the correct spots. Buttoned it back and started it. It sounds good so far. I haven't put the wheel back on yet. I will tomorrow and test.
I'm getting ready to tackle this baby this weekend. I'm going to opt out on the coolant flush and oil change, because I've just had that stuff done recently. I have 105k on the car, so it's time to stop putting this off. One of 3 belts is starting to squeek. The belt that is easiest to see is noticeably cracked and worn, so I can imagine the others are in similar shape.
I got the Crank Pulley Holder tool and some beefy sockets, extensions, and breaker bar and cheater pipe to get that bolt off.
I'll let everyone know how this went after I'm finished.
Just a couple of suggestions as I'm reading up on this prior to tackling it. Socket/bolt sizes would be great. I can't confirm, but I think the crank bolt is 18MM? Anyone? Just so a person can verify that he has the right stuff.
Also for tools, you may want to mention the belt tension gauge, and any various lubricants, or cleaners that you might have used.
Lastly, on the step 38 idiot check, you might want to put that grenade pin in there. To help remind a person to take that sucker out.
All in all, this DIY has given me confidence to be willing to even attempt this, so great job. I am changing the water pump, valve cover gasket, tensioner and the 2 other belts since I'll be in there. I'm setting aside the entire weekend for this, just in case it turns into a fiasco. Wish me luck!
__________________ - Stay in front, that way you don't have to worry about passing anyone.
Hi I just changed my timing belt. The car is shaking a little at idle but has power at higher rpms. Any ideas on the problem? I'm not sure if I should let the computer "learn" some more or if I should tear into it again to make sure the marks are still lined up. The check engine light is blinking also. Thanks for any suggestions.
Hi I just changed my timing belt. The car is shaking a little at idle but has power at higher rpms. Any ideas on the problem? I'm not sure if I should let the computer "learn" some more or if I should tear into it again to make sure the marks are still lined up. The check engine light is blinking also. Thanks for any suggestions.
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