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At 194k miles, I just did my second t belt. I was going to wait untill 200k, but I had to replace a bad ac compressor, so I figured while I had everything removed, go ahead and do it.
I decieded to keep running the factory tensioner, it spun freely, and had no wobble to it. Replaced all factory hoses while I was at it. Hope it goes another 100k.
I forgot to look and see if the bolts holding the water pump were different sizes. I did not notice that two bolts are shorter. I thought that I cross threaded the bolt, because it did not go in there. I even took it out and then put it back in, not thinking. The bolt broke off and it is still in there. Such a PITA or actually more of a WCS. I have bought every tool that Sears, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware have to extract broken bolts. I bought 90 degree elbows, chucks, drill bits, etc. An electric impact wrench that looks more like a sander or buffer finally allowed me to start a drill out/extraction attempt. finally got the right fit I idiotically did not look up how to do it on the net until hours later. I did not know that it would be so much easier to use the smallest bit first, going very slow, and then move to the next biggest one. Luckily I was using the extractors with a bit on one end and reversed threads on the other for most of the time, so the small hole that I did end up drilling is centered. I also realized that I should be using reverse drill bits, and did not even think to look at them to see if I was cutting wrong. I was all ready to start putting things back together and then boom. I am going on vacation today, so the car has to sit. Hopefully when I get back I can drill the blt out and extract it with out having to rethread it. I was also thinking about using some honda bond and leaving the bolt in there. i was kind of scared that if I tried to rethread it, the block would crack. The water pump bolts are not torqued on too tight, so it could have been worse
So... Be careful the moment you think that you are victorious. Pride comes before the fall, nothing is over until it is over, etc, etc.
__________________ Have you paid your dues jack? The check is in the mail
I forgot to look and see if the bolts holding the water pump were different sizes. I did not notice that two bolts are shorter. I thought that I cross threaded the bolt, because it did not go in there. I even took it out and then put it back in, not thinking. The bolt broke off and it is still in there. Such a PITA or actually more of a WCS. I have bought every tool that Sears, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware have to extract broken bolts. I bought 90 degree elbows, chucks, drill bits, etc. An electric impact wrench that looks more like a sander or buffer finally allowed me to start a drill out/extraction attempt. finally got the right fit I idiotically did not look up how to do it on the net until hours later. I did not know that it would be so much easier to use the smallest bit first, going very slow, and then move to the next biggest one. Luckily I was using the extractors with a bit on one end and reversed threads on the other for most of the time, so the small hole that I did end up drilling is centered. I also realized that I should be using reverse drill bits, and did not even think to look at them to see if I was cutting wrong. I was all ready to start putting things back together and then boom. I am going on vacation today, so the car has to sit. Hopefully when I get back I can drill the blt out and extract it with out having to rethread it. I was also thinking about using some honda bond and leaving the bolt in there. I was kind of scared that if I tried to rethread it, the block would crack or it would weaken coolant passages, as I have read. The water pump bolts are not torqued on too tight, so it could have been worse
So... Be careful the moment you think that you are victorious. Pride comes before the fall, nothing is over until it is over, etc, etc.
__________________ Have you paid your dues jack? The check is in the mail
To be more specific I changed it, put everything backtogether, started it(it took about 10 seconds but it started) but it wasn't running right so I took everything apart again and put the belt back on taking even extra care to make sure it was at TDC. So now at this point it will start but not idle at all. At this point I really have no idea what I'm doing so my father and uncle who were helping me change it pretty much took over.
The first thing they did was try moving the timing belt one tooth to the left. It started this time but again just wasn't running right. So next they tried moving it a tooth to the right(or two teeth to the right, one to put it back where is originally was and one to put it to the right a notch) Now it wont start at all. At one point during the several hours of trouble shooting we spent my uncle had removed one of the spark plugs and it started with out the plug in but when he put it back it wouldn't start.
Anyone have any ideas as to what might be wrong or what I should check next?
To be more specific I changed it, put everything backtogether, started it(it took about 10 seconds but it started) but it wasn't running right so I took everything apart again and put the belt back on taking even extra care to make sure it was at TDC. So now at this point it will start but not idle at all. At this point I really have no idea what I'm doing so my father and uncle who were helping me change it pretty much took over.
The first thing they did was try moving the timing belt one tooth to the left. It started this time but again just wasn't running right. So next they tried moving it a tooth to the right(or two teeth to the right, one to put it back where is originally was and one to put it to the right a notch) Now it wont start at all. At one point during the several hours of trouble shooting we spent my uncle had removed one of the spark plugs and it started with out the plug in but when he put it back it wouldn't start.
Anyone have any ideas as to what might be wrong or what I should check next?
You probably had it right the first time.
Do you have a repair manual? Sometimes when you disconnect the battery for long periods of time, and go to start it, it'll run like crap. You have to do a restart mode, the manual states how to do it. You basically run it at a certian rpm, like 2000, until the fans kick on, and then let it idel, etc. I don't know the exact procedure, but I'd bet that's what you need to do.
I've worked on my car many times, and it's only done this to me once. I just had to run it awhile, and it was back to normal.
When you do the crank pulley bolt, what size of the socket are you using? I have a 2002 civic LX 5 spd, I am wondering what the socket size am I looking for to get the crank pulley bolt?
Also I have a general question: I am building up my toolbox for the maintenance for my 2002 civic LX 5 spd. What size of the sockets do I have to get in my toolbox? Metric or SAE? ½ inch drive or 3/8 in drive?
When you do the crank pulley bolt, what size of the socket are you using? I have a 2002 civic LX 5 spd, I am wondering what the socket size am I looking for to get the crank pulley bolt?
Also I have a general question: I am building up my toolbox for the maintenance for my 2002 civic LX 5 spd. What size of the sockets do I have to get in my toolbox? Metric or SAE? ½ inch drive or 3/8 in drive?
Thanks.
Dan
I'm not sure what size socket it takes, I don't remember. Somewhere around 17mm.
Civics have all metric bolts and nut. For the most part, when working under the hood (removing valve cover, timing belt cover, alt, ps, etc.), I use 1/4" drive sockets, 10mm being the majority on bolt sizes, and 12mm. Suspension work, 3/8" drive. Breaking the crank bolt loose, and lug nuts, 1/2" drive on an impact.
You don't need any 3/8, and they are hard to find anyway. If you really want to you could try sears, you may be luck enough for them to have it in stock, either that or a specialty store. Like I said, 1/2 in drive will do. I broke an old breaker bar, but I got a new one and it came right off. Just set it up like they did in the video. I had to put a pipe on the breaker bar that goes on the crank pulley tool. As long as you have a good four feet of pipe, it really is not that hard. Just be careful when the bolt or breaker bar breaks. Use control and you will be fine. Just make sure you put that short bolt in the right hole when reinstalling the water pump.
__________________ Have you paid your dues jack? The check is in the mail
You don't need any 3/8, and they are hard to find anyway. If you really want to you could try sears, you may be luck enough for them to have it in stock, either that or a specialty store. Like I said, 1/2 in drive will do. I broke an old breaker bar, but I got a new one and it came right off. Just set it up like they did in the video. I had to put a pipe on the breaker bar that goes on the crank pulley tool. As long as you have a good four feet of pipe, it really is not that hard. Just be careful when the bolt or breaker bar breaks. Use control and you will be fine. Just make sure you put that short bolt in the right hole when reinstalling the water pump.
3/8" drive is hard to find? Not true, actually they're probably THE most common. Look in any mechanics tool box, and 3/8" drive will exceed all other drive sizes.
No offense, but you may want to invest in a torque wrench. If you were putting enough torque on that water pump bolt to break it, you were by far exceeding the torque spec.
