dbasaj

Hi all,

Reading these posts with great interest. I have a 2002 Civic (in the UK) and lately I am having the same problem as everyone else on this thread.

The symptoms being both of the following in every occasion:
1) Hot weather or engine getting hot
2) Crawling traffic

Once both these factors are true, then the car goes into limp and then stops. Everytime the engine stops has been while in traffic in town, on the motorway (freeway) or totally stationary whilst the engine is running.

So when this happened first time, the car threw 2 codes. when broken down on the motorway I called the AA (UK recovery company) and they diagnosed the two problems.:
a) p1361
b) Something to do with the O2 sensor (I can dig out the codes if needed)

I took the car to a garage (not a Honda main dealer) and they replaced the crankshaft sensor and the O2 sensor (£200) so I thought everything was ok.

Recently in the UK it has been hot - very hot. But my route to work is a very fast and stopless journey, so I haven't been seeing the code. However, when with my family in town shopping on the weekend, there is a serious risk the car will break down just like yesterday. Had my mrs and baby in the back and bang again the engine stopped.

So I bought an OBD2 scanner off amazon (£15) and an android app (£5) which tells me the Coolant temperature. This tells me now when it will breakdown. At 97 degrees the fan comes on and the temperature drops to about 92. So this happened yesterday, mrs and I watched the temperature while driving to shops and the car went through the cycle a few times and then it just stopped. So LUCKILY I could pull over, put the hazards on and wait 10-15 mins for the car to cool. Watched the temp on the android app and when the engine was sub 90 (about 88), cleared the code, started the car and drove quick out of the traffic into free flowing air to cool the engine down. Just by driving freely (instead of in traffic) the temp drops to about 80. This is really important because the car has never stopped at that temp.

I have since taken the car back to the garage and they have told me they cant see anything wrong with it, which leads me to believe that they are simply incompetent or screwing me over. So advice welcome please....

a) Should I have it out with them or take it to a Honda main dealer ?
b) Is the crankshaft sensor the right one ? Or should I be replacing the camshaft sensor ?
c) I have read about the cat could need replacing ? or parts of the exhaust ?

Also does this link mean anything: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/th...1_and_1362.pdf

Saj

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

The sensor they are referring to is the Camshaft Position Sensor. It works through electromagnetic energy and senses the passes that the camshaft makes while rotating through its axis. This tells the injectors when to inject fuel and the spark plugs when to send spark. If the camshaft has excessive play the camshaft position sensor no longer sees the passes and goes into interrupt mode. When this happens the engine shuts down because it no longer knows when to give fuel and spark.

Replace the Camshaft Position Sensor (Often called TDC sensor) and check all associated wiring. If this does not work you will need to replace the head because it is no longer supporting the camshaft properly. You could possibly replace the internals on the head however this is probably more expensive than finding a used low mileage head and installing it.

A very easy way to control your engine temperature and keep yourself on the road is to turn the heat on inside the car (even when it's hot out). This should prevent the car from stalling or you having to pull over.

Hopefully that helps you out a bit. The o2 sensor is a common fault and has nothing to do with your main problem.

bikertank

I had the same experience last week in bumper to bumper traffic, hot, with the ac running. I have a 2002 LX 4 door 5 speed. My CEL came on and a loss of power, got onto the sholder and when I stopped it died. let it sit 5-10 minutes, checked the oil and tried it, still ran crappy and low rpm's. I don't know if it was coincident or not; but, I checked my gas cap and after removing and replacing it, it started and ran just fine again. The CEL is still on and I checked the engine code with my friends checker and it is showing the P1361.

This happened to me one other time in the same situation when i was stuck in hot weather in bumper to bumper traffic with the ac running. I had just gotten some gas and attributed it to the gas cap then too since once I checked it it started and ran fine again. I didn't check teh code then but the CEL went off after a couple longer drives later in the car.

I am over due for an oil change so will ge that done and see how it goes. I may also check the sensor and see if it is loose. My engine normally runs like a top and doesn't make any noises like anything is loose inside.

Update:
It happened again the very same day I posted this on my way home from work which was no traffic at all. I made it home and have replaced the TDC/CPS sensor, cleared the code with my friends code reader and we'll see what happens. It only took about an hour to swap the sensor. I didn't remove the valve cover completely, I just lifted it enough on the driver side to get the upper timing cover off. Hopefully this will take care of it. If it doesn't, I will update this again with what happens.

nsrhonda89

Here is a diagram of where the TDC sensor is located below.

http://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/honda/civic/2001

ian2002525

So everyone here still experience the limp issue(P1361) after changing the camshaft position sensor??

ian2002525

The issue is fixed after replacing the TDC sensor?? I'm on the same boat now

Matt_75

I had the code pop up once and I went in to limp mode. I replaced the sensor and have never seen the code again. That was about two month ago I believe.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Yes change the sensor and see what happens from there.

Steve40th

Great thread. I just go this code last night and google popped this thread up as a first look. My 2001 has 180000 miles and runs kinda hot. I am replacing the thermostat as water is moving within the engine, fans do come on, but the water temp creeps up till I move.
I am going to go ahead and replace this sensor tonight, and valve cover gasket as it leaks anyways.

9802civics

Did anyone actually replace the head? If so did that fix the problem? My car does the same exact thing. Looses power and I pull over let it sit for 5 min try to turn it on and it wont start. Let it sit for about 30 min to an hour starts right up and drive away as if nothing happened. Car has 312K miles and runs strong. What do you recommend to do. I dont think its wise to replace a head on a 312K mile engine. Do you agree?

Matt_75

Have you replaced the sensor already? I'm not understanding why you would go right to replacing the head. If you're throwing this code, replace the sensor. If it doens't fix it, then you should check your VIN against recalled heads to see if it's on there. At 312K, it's probably not the head, but the sensor itself.

Steve40th

Mine turned out to be a bad spark plug boot. It was ripped and the spark from the boot was acing within the tin shield within the head.

9802civics

Dealer replaced the TDC sensor and crank sensor along with the timing belt and valve cover gasket. Took it back and they said it might be my head gasket. Dont know if they just want to get the car in and charge me a grip later on for something else. Car is not smoking runs good and is not wasting water.

BR549

FWIW - My 01 EX had P1361 code after stalling out on two separate occasions about a month apart. Roughly a month or two after last stall, computer died. Bought a used computer off eBay and new grounding cables from Honda Dealership, as existing cables were heavily corroded. Installed computer and cables, cleaning grounding cable mtg surfaces with Dremel tool with stainless wire brush. Drove from Oct to now with no stalls, car runs great. Have put approx 8-9k on car since last P1361 code with no more stalls, car now has 120k.

9802civics

I will try looking into the computer. What do they run for on Internet?/

BR549

Got mine for under 150 including ignition lock from online used parts business. Read some other postings about what to check first before buying anything. When my computer died, car was dead...

jackedurcash

this is the most frustrating problem ever.

i have had the problem for 1.5 years.

My work and house commute is only 15 minutes so i dont run into the problem often BUT if i have to drive longer than 30 minutes....believe it, i will see the CEL and the car will shut off at which point it has become a routine that i pull over, pop the hood with the car off but the ac fans running to help cool it. Same codes 1361 and 1362. once it cools down, i drive off until it gets hot enough and shuts off. It has gotten to the point now where i just want to fix it but...

does anybody here thing this problem could be related to a thermostat not opening up or a clogged radiator? For the car to shut off it must have 2 common denominators. 1) it must be 70 degrees or hotter. 2) the car must run longer than 30 minutes for me personally.

the codes indicate that it is a TDC sensor, but it seems like you ask around and others say a crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor.

In the winter when its cold, i dont have this problem (40 degree days). my car can run for hours. but when its hot, i have only a 30 minute drive time until this happens. It doesnt matter if its idoling or driving 70 mph. i only get 30 minutes of run time.

can someone give me some advice on what to replace first?
most frustrating problem ever. so over it. but i love this car and i dont want to get rid of it but this is getting so old,
please help.

MegaC

Another victim here. I'm just starting to research this, and I'm not a gearhead, although I have a 600bhp Z32TT...that's a bad combo I guess. Anyway, after getting married, the War Department disposed of all funds so I've been rubbing nickels. I waited too long to change the oil in my 2001 Civic EX with 174,xxx miles. I did it myself several days ago and used a crush washer at the plug because I though that was the source of a slow leak. But when I got under there the fresh leak seemd to be coming from the other side of the engine. The car ran better immediately. That was about 300 miles ago. Yesterday, I drove to the family mountain home to mow the grass and thought to myself "Man it really is running well."

Last night, my wife had to drive it (she usually drives a 2010 Chevy Equinox) to a cookout, so I could bring the kids in the Nox. She also drove the Civic home afterward, but stopped at an ATM to finalize a March of Dimes fund raiser and talked with another premie mom and let the car idle for 30 minutes. Yesterday was the hottest day of the year so far. On her way home, she called and asked me about the CEL and I said don't worry. When she got home, she said the car had no power (limp mode), and backfired twice. I ran the codes and got P1361, P1298, and P1259. I believe the 1361 caused the other 2.

In recent mornings I have noticed a new oil puddle on the driveway about 3-4" across on the passenger side. I have been reading about overdue oil changes and low oil levels having something to do with this code. I wish I had been driving when it happened and you know why...she doesn't know jack about cars.

This morning, I drove it to borrow a family member's car and it ran fine (because it had cooled off?)

So given what I have said, do you think her letting the car idle for 30 minutes on a warm night may be what precipitated this? Sorry if this post is naiive, but when I bought the car, I thought it was as bullet-proof as my first Honda, a brand new 1979 Accord.

Thanks...

jackedurcash

nahh, letting a car idol like that doesnt cause those problems.

i let my 01 honda idol for hours at a time. I used to travel alot (and not for pleasure) and i used to pull over and let my car run for hours with the ac on, hood popped and sleep at the rest stops. its impossible to sleep in florida in a car with the car and ac off. that was years ago when i didnt have this problem.

i think this 1361 code is just something that civics in the 7th gen get when they hit 110k - 200k miles. i got mine at 130,000 miles and i have 145,000 miles on it.

im taking my car to a shop tomorow to get the TDC sensor AKA camshaft sensor replaced in it. 201.00 after taxes and everything. I will let you know if it fixs the problem.

just a fyi for everyone, CAMSHAFT sensor is the same sensor as TDC (top dead center) sensor. it seems to me to be the cause of everyones problems. With the symptoms my car has, i am not sure why its not heat related. Anyways, im going to take the car to get this sensor replaced and just hope thats the problem.

wannabe727

Hey everyone,

I am a first time poster to this thread. I recently bought a 01 civic ex and it ran perfectly fine until it became hot outside (90 degrees) and I was traveling down the highway at about 65mph with the ac on. My car lost power like all the others in this thread, so I pulled over and shut the car off to let it cool for awhile. Cranked up fine and drove okay (kinda sluggish) after letting it cool down. Looked up on google what p1361 code was and found this thread. I replaced the TDC sensor or Camshaft Position Sensor that same day and drove home with the ac on and I did not have a problem. However, it had cooled down outside (about 65 degrees).

Well, today it was hot outside and I was running the ac and traveling about 60mph and lost power again. Crap.... I guess the sensor I replaced was not the problem, or something else (wiring harness or electrical problem) is making the sensor malfunction. Kinda funny this only happens when the ac is on and its hot outside. I am at a loss, and can't afford to replace a cylinder. I really think it is an electrical problem instead of too much cam play because it runs fine without the ac on. Don't know why I'm posting other than to relay that changing my TDC/Camshaft Position Sensor did not fix my problem. I guess I will start with the wiring harness that connects to the sensor and see if I can figure out something else. SO FRUSTRATING!

tom2znet

2002 civic ex codes p0420, 1361, and 1362. car was fine till i was on the freeway 70mph with ac on, goes into limp mode. Pulled over waited about 1hr car started and ran fine. engine light still on, got home hooked up DB2 showed all 3 codes, cleared them. Car was ok for about 100mi, on frwy with ac, light came on still ran fine but had code P0420. Suspect cat is going out (clogged) and the back pressure is causing heat and caused the 1361 & 1362 codes. I am getting the cat replaced will update after testing.

Kungfunoodles

It's been a month since your issue with your tdc and/or cat. Was wondering if you have replaced your cat and what the results are since the cat replacement. I have the same problem like everyone else too. Updating us would help. Thank you!

Kungfunoodles

Also the following link talks about how changing your TDC/CMP sensor ASAP because it would lead to other problems as your continue driving with the sensor problem. Other problems such as fried coils, ruined cat, etc. Click the link for more info: http://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-2001-2005-78/tdc-sensor-1731014/

tom2znet

I replaced the cat, car runs better, went about week till I got 1361 again, continued to get 1361 and started to get hard to start. Changed out the cam sensor, wow finally drove for over a week with no engine light, but still hard to start. Started getting 0420 error reset it but it keeps coming back. Will be putting in a new fuel pump and strainer next. 1361 is gone after changing cam sensor. but car is still not right.

Ken cu

Hi all, i am a new one here
There were something wrong here, I think!! My car just got a loss of power with no A/C on and the weather was a little cold????? 01 Honda civic lx

Wankenstein

3 grand for a HG replacement? .. and the continuing moral of dealer stories is they are a bunch of ****$. Not all of the 7th gens are *****..just the '01- early '03 models.

ezone

Not all of us at dealers are that way.

Wankenstein

Not referring to the employees .. the owners set the prices.
I am kind of generalizing but, generally dealers service of all makes of cars are known for gouging.

ezone

I just now realized the post you quoted
was from 2008 and the problem was probably a bad cylinder head issue, there was a TSB on it.
Estimate of $3k for a brand new head was probably on target.
Sure there are cheaper ways to fix it now, but......

pcollen

Just read through this thread...I've been having the same problem and I also smell gas often when I stop. My engine codes are P1361, P1456, and P1457. The second and third point to a problem with the EVAP System and I suspect that it's a failure of the EVAP Canaister Control Valve Solenoid. Warm day causes greater fuel vapor expansion in tank which in turn causes a fuel pressure problem if not releived by the EVAP Canister system. That causes the car to stall and triggers the P1361. At least that is my logic and how I will approach the problem. I don't think it's the TDC/Camshaft position sensor ...it would happen more often than just once in a while. But it could be, so that will be a future effort to replace if the EVAP isn't the problem.