DIY: Diagnose manual Tranny Noises (and save some $$$) - Page 8

Superjester · 07-11-2008

Sorry. Follow up! Everything works great!!!
I written up some little tips but my account on the forums isn't working right now... Update more later

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Eyger · 08-04-2008

Back from the dead, I just ordered myself an input shaft bearing directly from the dealer today. It should be here in a day or so, then next week I'm going to take it to a trans shop and get it replaced. I've been looking forever to find out how much something like this would cost me in labor, and I'll finally be finding out next week. When I get it in, I'll post the results here...

The shop I'm taking it to is a transmission speciality shop, they put in my clutch and flywheel, and a transmission mount for like 500 bucks. So I'm expecting the price to be something around that as well, hopefully less of course.

Eyger · 08-14-2008

OK! screw this shit! I dropped my car off, and they're telling me it's going to be like 800 dollars in labor! WTF! Fuck this seriously, I'm not going to pay someone a thousand dollars just to replace a stupid ass 30 dollar bearing! (input shaft bearing)

It's time I learn how to work on cars.... since no one else around here knows, I'm just going to get a chilton, bust open the trans and freakin do it myself!

Damn son.

Eyger · 08-18-2008

Awesome, I just finished replacing the Input shaft bearing on my transmission, and holy fricking mackrel, this is by far the most complicated most time consuming thing I've ever done with my car!

Don't let that discourage you though. It CAN be done. I've never done any transmission work what so ever with my car, and this was just figured out step by step with no DIY and pretty much no help from anyone.

Although I'm not 100 percent done, I have another thread going with recommendations from people to bleed the clutch slave cylinder to get the clutch working again.

I think one of the hardest parts is actually getting the transmission out. It's big awkward heavy and unusually shaped. I got recommendations from some people saying that trans case can come out the top of the engine bay, but I didn't wanna do that. Not to mention, i don't think I'm strong enough to pull it up and out anyway. So instead I unbolted the sub-frame and dropped the trans down, and then pulled it out of the passenger side wheel well. Again, heavy and awkward. The sub-frame is easy to get down, there's four bolts, plus one on each side, like just to the left of the suspension. And of course, to drop the sub-frame, you have to jack up the engine and keep it in place.

Lets see, I couldn't really find a good DIY for this other then what's been posted from technical manuals, which is good, but you wouldn't follow it to the tee when doing a driveway installation.

It took me approximately 14 hours to do this. The shops around here quoted me about 11 hours of labor, and at 89 dollars an hour is like a thousand dollars! So I was just like "ummmmmm...... no."

oh yeah if you do decide to do this on your own, expect it to take two days, put all your bolts and crap in ziploc bags, for organization, it makes things a million times easier. Also expect it to take like three jacks, two or four jackstands, a breaker bar, a 32mm socket a half inch socket wrench, lots of umph and a couple of power bars.

I don't know what else to write, if anyone has any questions about doing this or whatever, let me know. I'm not an expert, but I'll tell you what I know.

I will post pictures and a video, with explanations soon.

bobbob2x · 11-03-2008

If I hear a noise similar to the one in the youtube video while steping on the gas in like 2nd and 3rd gear an I dealing with the input shaft barring problem?

Superjester · 11-30-2008

Hi guys! Long time no talk!!

To Bobbys question. No it probably will not be that. It is your Transmission. You will hear this noise all the time when you are driving it or it is in neutral. I don't know what it could be. You could take out your tranny and open it to check out the guts. If you don't have the time and the patience for your car to be out of commission then... My suggestion is to just buy a new transmission and slip it in.
I figure if you are going to take it out might as well and see if you can fix it.

Alright guys A couple Questions

Did you take apart the subframe and all that? Or are you saying that you can just take apart the side of the transmission that has the bearing in it and slip it out the bottom?

Just Unbolt the side of the transmission. Jack up the Engine and slip it out from the bottom. It is a HEAVY little thing (50 pounds?) so you will probably need someone up on top to give you a hand lifting it and wiggling it out. There is still barley anyroom after jacking the engine up. at one point I just got tired and lifted the engine up a little too much where it was pinching the rad hose. Lucky no damage.

Also, did you drain the transmission fluid before you took it all apart?

Yes I drained all the fluid. Before I even dropped the tranny is one of the main things I have done. mostly because I don't need that extra half-a-pound weight. I'm fat...Not strong. Use the drain plug by the tranny. I believe it is a 3/4 Ratchet (No socket needed) to drain it.
Oh and use new fluid. Don't be a cheap-ass and just filter it and put it back in.

Here are some BIG tips too..I suppose.

The Snap Ring.
My Friend Actually did this.
He cut it.
Yup.
I shit you not.
He cut it in half and just slipped the 2 pieces together. The tranny is still holding together perfectly fine. He is a guy with no Patience and gets frustrated very easy.
So...I guess if you want..Cut the...snap ring? and put...it...in.

Which is my next point.

As he was taking out his one gear shaft. The bearing stuck on the tranny and all of his gears came pouring down. If this happens. You are almost f***ed. At this point you have to be VERY observant to put it back together. The brass ring LOOKS like it can go on any way however..It goes on only ONE way. And ONE way only. He just taken the spline to our other friend who rebuilt it for him.

And thusly is...My big NEWS update!

UPDATE

It has seemed that my Transmission will not GO INTO SECOND GEAR. It grinds now and just slips out.
I don't know what is wrong with it. But I am getting a used one for 500$ (Canadian) anyways. I don't wanna screw around with it anymore.
Boo-F***ing-ooo-urns. All that work for nothing!

I will however be taking the old tranny apart once again. And probably will donate the Bearing for free.so it is up for grabs if anyone wants it But I won't be doing that till I save enough money for my new-used Transmission (Unless someone donates one! or has one for a cheaper price to sell.

) and take my old one back out.

Antagonist · 12-02-2008

Maybe you guys could help me with this? A while ago my Civic started making a strange vibrating sound. The sound only happens when the car hasn't been driven in a while (overnight or during the day while I'm working) and higher than 3000 RPMs. It matches the sound of the engine but it's not a grinding noise, just a vibration. It only happens for the first 10-15 minutes of driving and then completely disappears. I thought this might be a transmission problem because it only happens past 3000 RPMs when I'm in gear; no sound is made if I rev it in neutral. I've heard from other sources that it may also be a rusty heatshield on the catalytic converter but I'm not sure, I don't really know much about cars in general. Thanks for any help you might be able to give.

Superjester · 12-02-2008

Does it Vibrate more when the Revs go up as you drive? With the clutch in and in gear but at a idle does it make this sound?
It most sounds like the Cat convert heat shield.
Just pop the hood and clamp the clips down even more (the cat is right on the front of the engine.)
If however it continues to do this then it maybe be something more..
It could possibly be your clutch? (although it would make a worse noise..)
The Input shaft bearing makes the noise more (and more annoying) as you the RPM rev more.

First try the heat sheild. Clamp it down.

while your under the hood try and pinpoint where the sound is the loudest.

Antagonist · 12-02-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superjester

Does it Vibrate more when the Revs go up as you drive? With the clutch in and in gear but at a idle does it make this sound?
It most sounds like the Cat convert heat shield.
Just pop the hood and clamp the clips down even more (the cat is right on the front of the engine.)
If however it continues to do this then it maybe be something more..
It could possibly be your clutch? (although it would make a worse noise..)
The Input shaft bearing makes the noise more (and more annoying) as you the RPM rev more.

First try the heat sheild. Clamp it down.

while your under the hood try and pinpoint where the sound is the loudest.

As I rev higher the sound does get worse, but as mentioned before it goes away after a few minutes. I've tried to get others in the car to listen to it with me but by the time I get to anybody else the sound has subsided. It's not a grinding noise by any means at all. Also, the sound is nonexistant when I'm idling. No matter what gear I'm in nothing happens until I pass the 3000 RPM mark. I'll try what you suggested with the catalytic converter and see if that fixes anything. Thanks for your help =)

pon55 · 12-03-2008

Many thanks to all who posted.
Just finished and this thread was a great help. I didn't take out the lower balljoints, just took out the strut lower bolts and put a ziptie thru the holes. It will help you get the space to drop the subframe enough.
The bearing in the case was the easiest part.

MAKE SURE THE AXELS "CLICK" INTO PLACE WHEN YOUR DONE
This will save you a tow bill

maxim123 · 02-09-2009

i have a 2001 (2001-2005 series) 1.6 vtec civic se manual (UK model). When I engage it in first gear and release clutch there is a click sound that comes from under the stering (not ver loud and cannot be heard if the blower is on). the sound only comes once when moving forward from stationary (sometimes there is a similar click when i move to 2nd gear) but not when changing to other gears in the moving car. there is no click when i reverse.

the car has just 26k miles on the odometer.

any help appreciated

Civilized05 · 04-29-2009

I have an issue similar to what Turbo had described. I hear a mid to mid-high pitch grinding noise in neutral, or moving slowly. It sounds like metal discs are being turned without lubrication.

Any suggestions?

Civilized05 · 04-30-2009

I had an auspicious noise that may have sounded like yours. I asked my mechanic what it was, and after looking around under the hood, he discovered my power steering fluid was a bit low.

Apparently, the level of fluid caused a strange suction-type noise, and it would go away as I turned the wheel.

Maybe your power steering fluid is low. Hope this helped.

sataniksyndrome · 09-04-2009

Great stuff. I was wondering what the rattling was for a couple years now. I had this problem ever since I did intense burnouts day to day for nearly a year. I must say Honda builds some nice clutches to take so much abuse. Currently at 102K on my '05 coupe and still the stock clutch going. Feels like it slips a bit at 1000-1200 rpms but it catches fairly well still if driving at a normal pace. I used to be careless of the car, you know the first new car i owned, the joy of doing burnouts thing. I'm over it now. Looking to put the car back into shape. My control arm bushing are going, freaking annoying noise and doesn't sound too safe either. Can't drive it or the cv's will go, had to order new control arms (cheeper that way, plus new arms won't hurt). Well anyway thanks for the info, cos i'm looking into changing my clutch in about 20-30K miles so this is definitely a helpful tip. I thought it was something in the main clutch component before.

P.S. The squeaky pedal is a common syndrome of all mt civics from what i hear, it comes and goes with the weather. you can lube it to fix it temporarily.

havikkep2 · 2 Weeks Ago

hey guys, if the input shaft bearing is replaced, is it a chance for this problem to reappear ?