Battery FAQ
by William Darden


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CAR BATTERY FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
JUNE 24, 1995

A word of caution. Batteries contain a sulfuric acid electrolyte which is a highly corrosive poison and produces gasses that will explode if ignited. When working with batteries, you need to remove jewelry, wear protective clothing and eye ware, and exercise caution. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for testing, jumping, installing and charging.



1. WHAT IS THE BOTTOM LINE?

A. Check specific gravity in each cell and remove surface charge
before load testing,
B. Retest after deep discharges or jump starts,
C. Recharge slowly at 14.6 volts,
D. Buy the freshest and largest Reserve Capacity, non-sealed
(low maintenance) car battery that will fit with a CCA
rating for your climate that meets or exceeds the car's
OEM cranking amps requirements, and
E. Perform preventative maintenance, especially during warm
weather.

2. WHY BOTHER?

Because only the rich can afford cheap batteries.....

A good quality car battery will cost between $50 and $100 and, if properly
maintained, will give you four to eight years of service. The purpose of
a battery is to start the car; to provide power for the ignition, lighting
and other accessories when their combined load exceeds the capability of
the alternator; and to filter the power. Dead batteries almost always
occur at the most inopportune times, e.g., returning home from a long
trip, during bad weather, late at night in a dark parking lot or when you
are late for an appointment. You can easily spend the cost of a new
battery or more for an emergency jump start or tow.

Most store employees do not know how to correctly test a battery. The
national average of "defective" batteries returned to the manufacturer
that are in fact good is 50%.

3. HOW DO I TEST A BATTERY?

A. Visually inspect for obvious problems, e.g., damaged case,
corrosion, loose hold-down clamps or cable terminals, or low electrolyte.

B. If you have just recharged you battery or driven your car,
eliminate any surface charge by one of the following methods; otherwise,
go to the next step:

1. Allow the battery to sit for two to three hours,
2. Turn the headlights on high beam for three minutes and
wait five minutes before further testing, or
3. With a battery load tester, apply a 150 amp load
for 10-15 seconds.

C. Using the following table, determine the battery's
state-of-charge. The BEST way to measure the state-of-charge is to check
the specific gravity in each cell with a hydrometer. A temperature
compensating hydrometer can be purchased at a auto parts store for
approximately five dollars. If the battery is sealed (maintenance free),
the correct procedure to test it is to measure the battery's voltage
WITHOUT the engine running with a good quality digital DC voltmeter. Some
sealed batteries have built-in hydrometers. They are not good testing
devices because they only measure the state-of-charge in one of the six
cells.

If the state-of-charge is BELOW 75% using either test, then the battery
needs to be recharged BEFORE proceeding. If there is a .050 or more
difference in the specific gravity reading between the highest and lowest
cell or the battery will not recharge to 75% or higher, then the battery
should be replaced.

Battery Approximate Average Cell
Voltage State-of-charge Specific Gravity

12.66 100% 1.265
12.45 75% 1.225
12.24 50% 1.190
12.06 25% 1.155
11.89 0% 1.120

Note: If the temperature of the electrolyte is below 70 degrees F, then
add .012 volts (12 millivolts) per degree below 70 degrees F.

D. If the battery's state-of-charge is at 75% or higher, then load
test the battery by one of the following methods:

1. Turn the headlights on high beam for six minutes,
2. Disable the ignition and turn the engine over for 15
seconds with the starter motor,
3. With a battery load tester, apply a load equal to one half
of the Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) rating of the battery, or
4. With a battery load tester, apply a load equal to one half
the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) cranking amp
specification.

DURING the load test, the voltage on a good battery will NOT drop below
9.7 volts with the electrolyte at 80 degrees F. (If the electrolyte
is above 80 degrees, add .1 volt for every 10 degrees above 80 until you
reach 100 degrees. If below 80 degrees, subtract .1 volt for every 10
degrees until 40 degrees.) After the load is removed, the battery should
"bounce back" to the 50% state-of-charge level or above. If the battery
drops below minimum test voltage, does not bounce back or will not start
the engine, then you should replace it. If it passes this test, you
should recharge your battery to restore it to peak performance.

4. HOW DO I KNOW IF MY CHARGING SYSTEM IS OK?

When the charging system fails, usually the alternator light will come on.
With a good battery and the engine running at 2000 RPM or more for two
minutes, depending on the load and ambient temperature, the voltage will
increase to between 13.0 and 15.1 volts. Other factors affecting the
charging voltage are the battery's age, state of charge, and electrolyte
level and purity. A loose alternator belt will significantly reduce the
alternator's output.

5. HOW DO I JUMP START MY CAR?

This assumes a 12 volt negative grounded system found on almost every car
in the United States.

A. Determine that the electrolyte is NOT frozen. If frozen, allow
to thaw.
B. Turn off all unnecessary accessories and lights on both cars.
C. Start the car with the good battery and let it run for at least
two or three minutes at fast idle BEFORE attempting to start
the disabled car.
D. Connect the POSITIVE terminal on the disabled battery to the
POSITIVE terminal on the good battery.
E. Connect the NEGATIVE terminal on the good battery to a clean,
unpainted area on the ENGINE BLOCK on the disabled car.
F. Let the good car to continue to run for five minutes or more.
This will allow the dead battery to receive some charge and
to warm it's electrolyte.
G. Start the disabled car and allow to run at fast idle.
H. Disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order, starting
with the ENGINE BLOCK on the disable car.

6. WHAT DO I LOOK FOR IN BUYING A NEW BATTERY?

A. Cold Cranking Amps

The most important consideration is the battery's CCA rating. CCAs are
the discharge load measured in amps that a fully charged battery at 0
degrees F can deliver for 30 seconds and while maintaining the voltage
above 7.2 volts. Batteries are sometimes advertised by their Cranking
Amps (CA) measured at 32 degrees or Hot Cranking Amps (HCA) measured at 80
degrees, which are not the same as CCA. Do not be mislead by CAs or HCAs.
To convert CAs to CCAs, multiply the CAs by .8. To convert HCAs to CCAs,
multiply HCAs by .69. In hot climates, buying batteries with double or
triple the CCA ratings that exceed the OEM requirement is a WASTE of
money. However, in colder climates the higher CCA rating the better, due
to increased power required to crank a sluggish engine and the
inefficiency of the cold battery. One of the major manufacturers, Exide,
publishes the following table:

Available Power Temperature Power Required
From Battery degrees F To Crank Engine

100% 80 100%
65% 32 155%
40% 0 210%
25% -32 350%

B. Reserve Capacity

The next most important consideration in buying a battery is the Reserve
Capacity (RC) rating because of the effects of an increased parasitic or
"key off" load produced by electrical devices, e.g., fans, clocks,
computers, etc., that operate after the engine is stopped. RC is the
number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 degrees F can be
discharged at 25 amps until the voltage falls below 10.5 volts. More RC
is better in every case. For example, if your car has a 360 OEM cranking
amp requirement, then a 450 to 500 CCA rated battery with 120 minute RC
would be more desirable in a warm climate than one with 700 to 800 CCA with
90 minutes of RC.

C. Type

A sealed or "maintenance free" battery will NOT allow you to test the
specific gravity with a hydrometer or add DISTILLED water when required.
Sealed batteries are more prone to deep discharge failures, but require
less preventative maintenance. Car batteries are specially designed for
high initial cranking amps (usually for five seconds) to start a car;
whereas, deep cycle or "marine" batteries are designed for prolonged
discharges at lower amperage. A "dual marine" battery is a compromise
between a car and deep cycle battery. However, a CAR battery will give
you the best performance in a car. Some manufactures have introduced a
"dual" battery that combines a standard battery with emergency backup
cells. For about the same cost a better approach is to buy two batteries
and isolate them.

D. Size

Manufacturers build their batteries to an internationally adopted BCI
group number (24F, 35, etc.) specification, which is based on the physical
case size, terminal placement and terminal polarity. The OEM battery
group number is a good starting place to determine the replacement
group. Within a group, the CCA and RC ratings, warranty and battery type
will vary in models of the same brand or from brand to brand. Batteries
are generally sold by model, so the group numbers will vary for the same
price. This means that for the SAME price you can potentially buy a
physically larger battery with more RC than the battery you are replacing.
Be sure that the replacement battery will fit, the cables will correct to
the correct terminal, and that the terminals will NOT touch the hood when
closed.

The battery manufacturers publish application guides that will contain the
OEM cranking amp and group number replacement recommendations by make,
model and year of car, and battery size, CCA and RC specifications.
Manufacturers might not build or the store might not carry all the group
numbers. To reduce inventory costs, dual terminal "universal" batteries
that will replace several group sizes are becoming more popular. The four
largest domestic battery manufacturers are Johnson Controls (Interstate,
Motorcraft, Energizer, older Diehards), Delco (Sears, newer Diehards), GNB
(Champion) and Exide (NAPA).

E. Freshness

Determining the "freshness" of a battery is sometimes difficult. NEVER
buy a battery that is MORE than SIX months old. The date of manufacture
is stamped on the case or printed on a sticker. It is usually a
combination of alpha and numeric characters with letters for the months
starting with "A" for January (skipping "I") and digit for the year, e.g.,
"F5" for June, 1995. Like bread, fresher is definitely better.

F. Warranty

As with tire warranties, battery warranties are not necessarily indicative
of the quality or cost over the life of the car. Manufacturers will
prorate warranties based on the LIST price, so if a battery failed half
way or more through its warranty period, buying a NEW replacement might
cost you less. The exception is the free replacement warranty period.
This represents the risk that the manufacturer is willing to assume. A
longer free replacement warranty period is better.

7. HOW DO I INSTALL A BATTERY?

A. Thoroughly wash and clean the old battery, battery terminals and
case or tray with water to minimize problems from acid or corrosion.
Heavy corrosion can be neutralized with a mixture of baking soda and
water. Auto parts stores sell a cheap wire brush that will allow you to
clean the inside of a terminal clamps. Mark the positive cable so you do
not forget which one it is when you reconnect.

B. Remove the NEGATIVE cable first, the POSITIVE cable and then the
hold-down bracket or clamp. Dispose the old battery by exchanging it when
you buy your new one or at a recycling center. Batteries contain large
amounts of lead and acid.

C. After removing the old battery, be sure that the battery tray and
cable connectors are clean. If the cables are corroded or damaged,
replace them; otherwise, they will significantly reduce starting
capability.

D. Place the replacement battery so that the NEGATIVE cable will
connect to the NEGATIVE terminal. Reversing the polarity of the
electrical system WILL severely damage it.

E. After replacing the hold-down bracket, reconnect the POSITIVE
cable first and then the NEGATIVE cable.

F. Before starting the engine, check the electrolyte levels and
state-of-charge and refill or recharge as required.

G. Coat the terminals with a high temperature grease to prevent
corrosion.

If you do not want to lose your car's computer memory, security codes or
radio settings, a second battery can be temporarily connected to the
electrical system in parallel before disconnecting the first one. A
cigarette lighter plug can easily connect a parallel battery.

8. HOW DO I CHARGE MY BATTERY?

Some more words of caution. Do NOT ever disconnect a battery cable from
car with the engine running because the battery acts like a filter for the
electrical system. Unfiltered electricity can damage the electrical
components, for example, computer, radio, etc. Check the electrolyte level
before recharging. Do NOT add water if the electrolyte is covering the
top of the plates because during the recharging process, it will warm up
and expand. After recharging has been completed and the electrolyte has
cooled, RECHECK the level and add DISTILLED water to 1/8" BELOW the bottom
of the filler tube (vent wells) or to the level indicated by the battery
manufacturer. Reinstall the vent caps before recharging and recharge ONLY
in well ventilated areas. NO smoking, sparks or open flames because while
being recharged, batteries give off explosive gasses. If your battery is
the sealed, do NOT recharge with high current.

A. Usually, a car is jump started and run to recharge the battery,
which might NOT fully charge it. The length of time to fully recharge the
battery depends on the amount of discharge, the amount of surplus current
that is diverted to the battery, how long the engine is run, RPM, and
temperature. That is, an alternator is sized by the car manufacturer to
carry the maximum accessory load and maintain a battery, NOT recharge a
dead one. If you jump start your car, test your battery after you have
finished driving it, and recharge if the state-of-charge is below 75%.

B. A better method to recharge batteries is to use an external
constant current charger which is set not to deliver more than 1% of the
CCA rating of the battery.

C. The best method is to use an external constant voltage or tapered
current charger. A constant voltage "automatic" charger applies regulated
voltage at approximately 14.6 volts. A 10 amp automatic charger will cost
between $30 and $50 at an auto parts store. To prevent damage to the
battery, the current should be less than 1% of the CCA rating during the
first 30 minutes. With a taper charger, a high current, up to 30 amps, is
applied to the battery for a short period up to 30 minutes maximum and
then is regulated downward until the charge state reaches 100%.

For batteries with a state-of-charge of 25%, the following table,
published by Interstate Batteries, lists the recommended battery charging
rates and times:

Reserve Capacity Slow Charge Fast Charge
(RC) Rating @ 5 Amps @ 20 Amps

80 Minutes or less 10 Hours 2.5 Hours
80 to 125 Minutes 15 Hours 4 Hours
125 to 170 Minutes 22 Hours 5 Hours

If left unattended, cheap, unregulated trickle battery chargers can
overcharge your battery, because they can "boil off" the electrolyte. Do
NOT use fast, high rate, or boost chargers on any battery that is sulfated
or deeply discharged. This condition requires a constant current from one
to two amps for 60 to 100 hours. The electrolyte should NEVER bubble
violently while recharging. High currents only create heat and excess
gas.

9. CAN I INCREASE THE LIFE OF MY BATTERY?

Keeping your battery well maintained is the BEST way to extend the life of
your battery. For cold climates, keeping the battery fully charged and
warm will help. In the warmer climates and during the summer, the
electrolyte levels need to be checked more frequently and DISTILLED water
added, if required. Batteries last approximately two thirds as long in
hot climates as cold ones. The parasitic load will determine how long a
car can sit and still be started. Disconnecting the NEGATIVE cable will
extend the "life" of the battery. Turning off unnecessary accessories and
lights BEFORE starting your car will decrease the load on the battery
while cranking. Leaving your lights on and fully discharging the battery
can ruin it, especially if it is the sealed or maintenance free type.
Should this occur, you should test the battery after it has been recharged
to determine if there is permanent damage. NEVER add acid or
additives--just water.

Maintaining the correct electrolyte levels, tightening loose hold-down
clamps and terminals, and removing corrosion is normally the ONLY
preventative maintenance required for a battery.

10. WHAT ARE THE MOST COMMON CAUSES OF BATTERY FAILURES?

A. Using an undersized battery,
B. Loss of electrolyte due to heat or overcharging,
C. Overcharging with voltages greater than 15.1 volts,
D. Undercharging,
E. Old age,
F. Vibration,
G. Deep discharges (leaving your lights on),
H. Using tap water,
I. Corrosion,
J. Freezing, and
K. Overheating.

11. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE MYTHS ABOUT BATTERIES?

A. Storing a battery on a concrete floor will discharge them.

Modern lead acid battery cases are better sealed, so external leakage
causing discharge is no longer a problem.

B. Driving a car will fully recharge a battery.

There are a number of factors affecting alternator's ability to charge a
battery. The greatest factors are how much current from the alternator is
diverted to the battery to charge it, how long the current is available
and temperature. Generally, short trips during bad weather will not
recharge the battery; whereas, a long daytime drive in good weather will.

C. A battery will not explode.

While recharging, a battery produces hydrogen and oxygen gasses. If a
spark occurs, an explosion can occur. Remember the "Hindenburg"!

D. A battery will not lose it's charge sitting in storage.

A battery has internal electrical leakage that will cause it to become
fully discharged and sulfated over time. Prior to storing a battery, it
should be fully charged and recharged when it reaches the 50%
state-of-charge level. Batteries on store shelves should be checked
periodically and recharged if necessary.

E. Maintenance free battery never requires electrolyte.

In warm climates, the electrolyte could be "boiled off" due to the high
underhood temperatures. It could also be lost due to excessive charging
voltage or using high charging currents.

If you have been around cars for a while you might have heard the term generator. Well, those were the old days and the good old generator is history. What a generator did for the old cars, an alternator now does. You see, a car has and electrical system that carries power to such essential things as headlights, the ignition coils, engine cooling fans and other non-essential things as the radio (my son would argue that one), air conditioning fans (my wife would argue that one), and all of those other things upon which we have become accustomed to depend. All of that power has to come from somewhere!! A lot of people might think that power comes from the battery, and that is true to some extent. But the real answer is that the power to run all of those electrical things comes from Saudi Arabia! Huh? Saudi Arabia? Well, maybe Dallas, or Oklahoma. But the point is that the source for all of that energy is the gas tank. Yep. And the link from the gas tank to the battery is that mysterious thing called the alternator. It takes mechanical power from the crankshaft, transmits it via a "fan" belt, (it used to run the cooling fan as well) or serpentine belt as it is called in most of the newer vintage cars, and turns the alternator. So, the main function of the alternator is to convert power from the gasoline engine that drives you along the road, to electrical energy to keep the battery in tip-top condition.

So, what happens when an alternator goes bad? Well, at first, nothing. That is because the battery has some reserve power in it, enough to keep the engine running for quite some time, many many miles in fact. So a bad alternator doesn't necessarily mean a tow truck should be called right away. As long as energy is conserved elsewhere, like turning off the blower motor, the rear window de-fogger, the stereo and the headlights (if possible), you could make it for some distance on just the battery reserve alone.

One major problem which will finally occur as the battery loses its charge is that there will not be sufficient voltage to keep the engine running well. Many years ago I was in California and saw a car coming down the street with its catalytic converter glowing white hot and flames coming from beneath the car. What had happened is the alternator quit, the battery ran down, the engine was not firing on all eight cylinders and the unburned fuel was being burned in the catalytic converter! It had been long overdue for the driver to call a tow truck!

So, how do you know when your alternator is going bad? Most of the time the alternator fails in stages. A little techie talk here. The alternator gets its name from the fact that it generates alternating current (AC). The old generators I mentioned before generated direct current (DC). Well the battery can't use alternating current so the alternator output is fed into what are called diodes, which convert the AC into DC. The alternator has a unique feature in that it is able to generate a relatively high voltage while the engine is at idle. The old generators needed to be running at a fast pace before they got up to 13 or 14 volts. The alternator can do this since it is really three alternators in one body. Each of the three sections of the alternator generates its voltage out of phase with the other two sections. Since the complete cycle (one revolution) of the alternator is 360 degrees, each phase is shifted by 120 degrees from the next phase. So in one revolution of the alternator it puts out three separate voltages.

OK, back to the failure mode. Each of the three phases has its own windings in the alternator and each of the windings has its own pair of diodes. Each of these windings and/or diodes can fail, one set at a time. If this happens the alternator can still charge the battery, but only with a limited current, approximately 2/3 of its original capacity if one system fails. If two systems fail, then it puts out only 1/3 of its rated capacity. What that means to you is that you can go a long time on a limping alternator. Chances are if you don't need headlights or air conditioning or other high current using accessories, you would never know that the alternator was in the process of failing! The time you will find out is when it is 10 below zero and you wear down the battery by cranking the starter, then put the fan on high for heat, and then drive in the dark.

So, how can you tell if the alternator is failing without taking it apart and doing some measuring inside the alternator? It's really pretty simple. You will need a simple voltmeter. You can get one at Radio Shack for under ten dollars. Here's what you do - start the car, make sure all the accessories are off and rev up the motor to a fast idle. Set the Voltmeter to the DC scale (not AC or Ohms). Measure the voltage across the battery terminals - red lead of the voltmeter on the positive terminal, black on the negative (ground in most cars). The voltage should, and probably will, read around 14 volts. If it reads less than 12 volts you may indeed have a failed alternator and you can skip the next step. Next, turn on the heater, the rear window de-fogger, the radio, the headlights and anything else that draws power. Now rev up the motor and watch the voltmeter. It should still be reading around 14 volts. If it reads lower than 13 volts the chances are that your alternator is not up to snuff.

One last failure mode is of course noise. The rotor inside the alternator rotates on bearings, normally very high precision needle bearings, and these can fail. When they do you will hear a loud grinding noise associated with the alternator. To isolate the noise take a length of tubing, heater hose will do fine, put one end to your ear and move the other around in the vicinity of the alternator. The noise will be much louder when you point it at the alternator if that is the culprit. Other possibilities are the water pump and the power steering pump which are also driven by the engine belt. To further isolate the noise disconnect the drive belt and spin the alternator by hand. If you hear a rumble or grinding noise then the bearings are shot. If you don't hear a noise the problem may still be in the alternator since the bearing might be quiet without the loading of the drive belt tension. Check for side play in the pulley. If you are pretty certain the noise came from the alternator it is a relatively simple task to take it apart and visually inspect the bearings, else swap it in for a rebuilt. Your auto supply store will normally bench test the alternator free of charge and can tell you at that time if the bearings are noisy.

Before you go running down to the parts store for a new alternator make sure to check the connections at the battery terminals and also check to see that the voltage is the same at the alternator terminal (the big fat one with the heavy wire attached) {also, read the article, dead battery}. Check to make sure the belts are tight and not slipping. Replace them if they are cracked or shiny on the side that faces the alternator pulley.

One final thing to check - the field voltage. In order for the alternator to generate electricity it must be supplied with a field voltage. If you know which wire is the one that supplies the field (normally labeled 'F') then simply check with a voltmeter to see if there is 12 volts at the field. Another check is to use a hacksaw blade or a lightweight screwdriver , anything magnetic, and hold it near the side of the alternator with the ignition switch turned in the on position. If there is a field voltage present then the metal will be attracted magnetically to the side of the alternator, not very strongly, but you will feel it pull the metal to the side of the alternator.

So, what are you going to ask the mechanic when he tells you that you need a new alternator?

1. Did you perform a load test on the alternator? If you did, what were the voltage readings? Were they all below specification?? (mechanics will use a load testing machine instead of turning on all the accessories.)

2. Did you check to see if the belts were old and cracked or possibly slipping?

3. Did you measure the voltage at the alternator connector or at the battery? Were the readings the same at both places or is there a voltage drop somewhere in the system. You can tell him the "Dead Battery" story if you want to.

4. Finally, did you check the price on a rebuilt as well as a new alternator? (rebuilt alternators are just as good as new if they are done correctly and usually cost about 1/3 as much)

Now that you know all about alternators you can feel confident that you can discuss the failure modes with a mechanic and not get shafted. It is also fun to watch the faces of a mechanic when you ask questions like those above. He will soon figure out that you know more about the electrical system of your car than how to turn the lights on!

For yet another description and a different perspective on the charging system go here.

3. HOW DO I TEST A BATTERY?

A. Visually inspect for obvious problems, e.g., damaged case,
corrosion, loose hold-down clamps or cable terminals, or low electrolyte.

B. If you have just recharged you battery or driven your car,
eliminate any surface charge by one of the following methods; otherwise,
go to the next step:

1. Allow the battery to sit for two to three hours,
2. Turn the headlights on high beam for three minutes and
wait five minutes before further testing, or
3. With a battery load tester, apply a 150 amp load
for 10-15 seconds.