Stock 99

I hope there's some closet Ford F150 Fans/owners out there. Some repair upgrade advice is what I'm looking for.

This is meant to be a ski hill/winter beater for me to save my beloved 99 Civic from the hardest days of Canadian winter and ski hill access roads. So I didn't really pay much for this truck and the tires are brand new...but the shocks are beat. So I was planning on getting some rancho from Canadian Tire when they throw them on sale. That being said I'll be looking to spend $300 - $500 on all 4 if there's better options I'd like to hear about them.

This truck will need to run about 30min on the highway and 10km up vertical 2000ft..also it will be hauling dirt/building supplies/weight. So I have some demands for decent suspension.

- I need to find the engine VIN if anybody knows
- the speedo doesn't really work but when you downshift it sort of works a little.
-it got a bit of an oil leak coming off the front - front main bearing? could be oil pan too..not sure yet
-a bit of an exhaust leak around the stick shift - common problem - fix?

It's a 4.9 (300) inline 6 - 4 speed standard...to the best of my knowledge...I have a fist full of paperwork to look through but it looks like it had a crate engine put in at one point.

Other then that it seems pretty decent. I mean compared to my Honda it drives like a truck. Unfortunately this is about the average size of vehicle on the road in the winter where I live. I've never felt safe on the highway in my Civic in bad winter conditions and huge trucks every where....now I am one of them! lol. I drove 100km today and could literally watch the gas gauge going down and it was sunny, warm and flat.

any thoughts/advice is welcome

There's more pics here

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4649821

clinton_hedrick

I've never heard much about Ranchero's OE replacement shocks, but a few buddies of mine have gotten their lift kits and they didn't last very long (but they were put through a lot of abuse)
And good tires are always a great deal, I bought a truck for 1500 and didn't end up fixing it up, but sold the almost new 33" tires that came on it alone for 1000 and then the rest for 1500 again

But oh yeah, fords suck

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

I do own a 91 F-150 and Ford is my second choice for a truck behind Toyota, (since Honda doesn't make one) but I have not had to replace /work on it yet. So I am not much help but am curious about the answers to your questions.

Certainly ezone has had some experience with furd's!

ezone

A 24 year old Furd with oil leaks? Say it ain't so!
I'd kind of expect crank front and rear main seals shot by now, but I can't see it from here.

Speedo would take some troubleshooting...I'd want to look at a few diagrams and I don't have access to Alldata here at home. Maybe look for chafed wiring by the speed sensor? Labscope the signals. Is the ECM getting a VSS signal or not? Has the VSS gear worn all the teeth off?

Exhaust leak, smell or noise? Rubber boots torn or missing around the shifter?

Oh. You're one of THOSE people.


Experience enough to not like them much.

I didn't care the the Explorer/Navajo rebadging. I really hated when Mazda stopped importing their own trucks and started rebadging Rangers. 93 was the last year for a true Mazda built truck here.
These days, I'm glad I'm no longer with that car line. They seem to have turned almost all the cars into Forzdas. The 6 isn't any better than a Towus. The Miata now has Fords 2.3 engine in it.
I firmly believe that Mazdas' engineers would be committing seppuku if they had been tasked with designing that miserable 2.3 engine Ford makes.

PLUS several years of experience in the independent shop world. And almost a year in a Ford product dealership.

Some engineers are far smarter than others.

Stock 99

...you'll have to bear with me a bit. I've had a million things going on today with buying the truck. Trying to get up to speed with everything I'm seeing and trying to learn what Ford's are about....

This is a 4 speed manual so I'm lead to believe the speedo is mechanical and goes into the Tcase - probably worn gear at that point (no VSS for manual/mechanical,right?) - I'm going to trying removing the cable and inspect/lube tomorrow.

I'm still trying to find something like an FSM at this point....

I did clean the interior completely today and the boots shifter boots seemed fine. I'll do a closer inspection tomorrow. When it's cold and at lower speed it sort of sounds like someone blowing through their lips..but goes away at higher rpms...no smell...I'm assuming gasket but it looks like someone has cut/welded an exhaust on.


I went through the receipts and $1400 was spent on what looks like a crate engine (but in fact 300 inline 6 - 4.9l) in 2000. The transmission and Tcase were replaced at that point as well. Closest mileage I can find at that time was 190K kms and it's at 281K kms now.

- also the Ebrake is tricky/sticky but does engage so I imagine I'll have to open up the rear drums and have a look... I've got until the snow flys (December) before I need it. So there's no rush for any of this stuff.

PO had a fuel filter for it not installed yet. It idles a bit rough when it's cold (EFI) and seemed to think the filter would fix that...I'm more skeptical about that though. Wondering how Ford fuel injectors track record is, some fuel injector cleaner in the tank maybe?

I sprayed down the engine with degreaser today and tomorrow morning I'm going to power wash the engine/bay and start to trouble shoot the oil leak. I still don't know a whole lot about this engine but from what I understand it was build to take a beating...so I'm thinking/hoping more oil pan than front main seal. I guess on he plus side there's tonnes of room to work in the engine bay unlike all the Japanese stuff I've ever worked on. I can almost sit up underneath it without jacking it up which is sweet as well.

So.. I guess basic plan tomorrow is clean and power wash the **** out of everything. Soak everything in penetrating oil / lube, drive it occasionally for a week and revisit all these issues.

ezone

Can you clarify this? No sane person would open up a new crate engine to stick a bearing in it. Did you mean a seal?


No clue, that's why I was wanting to look in Alldata. But I can't right now.
A whut?

Absolutely one of the best workhorse engines they have made.

Seems like I used to see a lot of cable problems. Just sayin..
It won't.

FAR more reliable than GMs injectors of the day. Also many Fords did tend to respond favorably to injector cleaning services (the type where we connect cleaning agent directly to the fuel rail on the engine), they did seem to have an unusually large number of issues with deposits in injectors.

Stock 99

lol,

I did actually edit out rear main seal...there is a receipt in there for one.

The guy I bought it off only owned it for 2 months..so he didn't really know any thing about it. I have receipts back to 1998 and have been trying to piece it all together. Looks like the transmission got blown and tran/tcase, rear main were done.... then there's a receipt for an engine 6 months after that. LOL

No mention of clutch in all that which really surprises me??

FSM? Factory Service Manual - I found *cough*cough* a free download for my Civic...looking for this Ford now...

I know the Ebrake on my Toyota needed to be relentlessly lubed (like every 3 months) or it didn't work. I'm assuming everything is so neglected on this truck I'll have to start (lubing) right from the pads and work my way back.

I've used Seafoam in my gas tanks before and find it's the only thing that makes any sort of difference...When I'm going to run a tank through it I'll add some Seafoam.

I watched some Utube video today and buddy took a fuel filter off and it was full of what looked like rust?? Is this common?? I took my Toy apart at like 25 years old and it was all clean as a whistle inside. Anything else to look for in the fuel system? I thought I'd read about fuel pump issues in these models?

I have a multimeter to troubleshoot with. I was trying to find a 1996 and up because I have a nice OBD II scantool but unfortunately '96 is just out of my price range.

I've also seen some other utube videos where same gauge cluster as mine and all the sensors are not reading anything close to accurate. I feel kinda lucky there...they all seem OK...temp even looks like I can see Tstat open/close.

Just remember everybody....

--------------------------------->>> Trucks go up - Cars go down.

PS - it's an old highways truck as well...actually it looks like about 5 old highways trucks (body)

EDIT - sorry I meant main seal not bearing...it's been a really long day.

ezone

Depends on how long it's been on there, and what's been in the tank. Most filters are designed to accumulate small amounts of water too, but only so much.

Hope the cruddy looking stuff stays on the one end and doesn't make it all the way through.
Look for ways to read codes from Fords' EEC-IV units (pretty sure that's considered "EEK-4" in 90). I think just a couple jumper wires and a test light can get you reading flash codes.

My truck is lower and shorter than my Civic. (ground clearance and roof height)

Stock 99

Hey that's a good tip. Perhaps I'll try to see if there's any codes. I'm pretty sure the CEL light has been disabled as well. It doesn't come on with ignition.

would this still apply to my 1990 --> this is an '86 example...

http://blackeagle.duckdns.org:86/F150/Ford_OBDI.html

http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/eec-iv/

Hey! Look.... even a 1990 Ford has Intel Inside

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

It's more that Honda does not make a truck that is useful to me. Not that the Ridgeline is not a real truck.

I do agree that Ford ruined Mazda. Supposedly Ford has changed though but only time will tell.

Never knew you could scan an old truck. I will have to try and scan mine and see what happens. It will occasionally stale when it is first started. It has a Jasper engine in it due to a Sears oil change incident that resulted in a new motor (previous owner).

Stock 99

..I wouldn't buy a Honda 'truck' at this point either..

My '88 Toy you could get flash codes as well through a combination of ignition key turns. I've never owned anything North American though so I'm having a bit of a learning curve.


LOL, I had no idea about Ford/Mazda until a couple years ago. Never really had any interest in either company until some of the newer Mazda cars. I do like some of Mazda's newest stuff. I've been Honda/Toyota my entire life though and no complaints on either.

So I went to my local parts dealer today and they recommended Monroe Sensatrac shocks. I could get all 4 for $335 out the door. Apparently Fords could use helper springs as well for loads? ...and of course they aren't available for a '90 F150...airbag suspension instead for another $350.

That being said I'll probably just get 4 shocks for the winter (highway/ski hill) and worry about more later. Even though I don't know anything about Fords it was pretty obvious just from looking underneath that it can go 'monster' fairly easily. I do enjoy a monster truck.

Anybody love/hate Monroe Sensatrac (especially in a heavier vehicle)? I believe this truck is 4400 lbs.

ezone

My service manager went from a Dodge Ram 4x4 to a Ridgeline.
I don't think he ever hauled anything bigger than a push mower in either one.

JC Whitney? LOL (Kinda serious, they used to have something for everything.)

Or burned out from being on and ignored for so long.

When proper, a Ford will leave the CEL on until the ECM receives 1 or 2 trigger pulses (can't remember) from the ignition system. So as soon as 2 sparks are fired during cranking, the light should go out if all is well.


Your links, yes that looks like the basics. Try to find your year specifically though. Check your local library? Many have online access to Alldata and/or Mitchell.

Be careful of which diagnostic plug you find in the engine compartment. There can be 2 of them, one for the EEC4 and the other for ABS (??)
(It hurts to remember that far back LOL)

Corrosion of the pins in those connectors was a problem because they were not sealed up and were exposed to the elements.

If most of the cavities in the EEC4 diag connector have terminals (maybe 5 out of 6?), then there may be datalist available if you have the right scanner. I don't remember if a 90 would have it though.
From Wiki: By the early 1990s certain Ford/Lincoln/Mercury models had sensor data streaming capability. The feature is called DCL (Data Communications Link). These models have 2 additional data bus wires to the EEC-IV diagnostic connector).

Ford/Mazda goes WAAAAY back. 70s at least, the first one I knew about was the Ford Courier P/U was really a Mazda.

Daaaang. Seems high.
Yer up in Hockey country, aren't you eh? IDK if that is high or not. Check choices online though.
I'm not sure if I want to believe the company that tells everyone that struts need replaced every 50,000 miles. Maybe the products they sell need replaced that often.

Never used any of their shocks on any of my stuff that I know of.

I have had issues with a few of their "Quick Struts" in customer cars though.

KYB is listed on my local Oreilly site, several choices in that brand.

Throw your average load in it and see if it drags its *** on the driveway like a dog with worms drags its *** on the carpet.

Oreilly here shows these in Monroe for a 4WD
Monroe Sensa-Trac - Shock

Part # 58604



No clue on the ratings.

Is this 4WD?
Twin I beam front end or straight axle?

Stock 99

Yeah, it's 4x4 with a twin I beam

I hate to go on but Americans enjoy not only way better pricing on automotive parts but also much better selection than us as well. The big players here are Napa and Lordco, Canadian Tire, smaller more expensive places below that. I went to Lordco today..generally quality parts they sell. That's on par $$$ for a rancho..I had a rancho suspension in my Toy and I liked it...bouncy,lol. Probably not so much good for hauling though. I'm not sold on Monroe either so I'll check Napa this week as well. I'm not in any hurry. Anybody can throw a set of shocks on a truck in short order. If I was to get $700 into suspension with airbags...well then I would look into more monster options instead. Like 33's with 6" suspension lift....big bad truck. No big surprise it's not too hard for me too find that kind of stuff for decent prices.

....In the mean time though I need to get to the ski hill safely on the highway...which is why Monroe came up.

My truck is different for the wire inputs for ECC4 and I'm going to wait until I know for sure what I'm doing before I go jamming wires in anything. Ironically one of the things I forgot to take pictures of today was the likely wires...

I did about what I said I was going to do...probably have to replace the rear brakes, one Ebrake cable and the hydrolic line front to back...and shocks. I think that pretty decent for what it is.

Long box so it'll carry 4x8 flat in the back, straight 6, 4 speed, good rubber.

SOLD! is what I said, lol.

I lubed/penetrating oiled everything today so now I'll just let it sit until after Thanks Giving this Monday.

EDIT - I saw those KYB's and thought they sounded awesome...not for Canadians though! lol

EDIT EDIT - The Owners Manual is hilarious. It's advice on fuel economy was to lay off the air conditioning. They also have a topic for 'Driving While Impaired' officially Ford does not endorse drinking and driving apparently. Interesting thing to have in the Owners manual, I thought.

ezone

Oh a cable drive. My only guess right now is to see if the drive is on an eccentric that you can adjust. Maybe if the teeth of the gear are all still present you can just rotate it to move the driven gear of the speedo drive unit closer to the output shafts' drive gear.

Gas looked pretty clear.

Lots of rust visible.

Stock 99

It's rusting from the inside out so that's fine. As long as it looks good to cops/dot guys then cool. lol ...and besides it's camo so they won't even see me.

Soooo...just did a butt load of reading about twin I beam and realized why I've never owned a North American car/truck. :\

Should I even bother changing the shocks on this thing or do you think it will just lead to endless alignment headaches? From all the reading I've done it seems it's probably a dana 44 front axle.

The exhaust leak is right at the header/exhaust gaskets. Not too surprisingly my Toyota did the same thing...blow by until the header gets hot. Never fixed it (but tried 3x) on my Toy don't even plan on trying in this...probably explain some of the rough idle on cold start. The fuel filter did nothing as expected.

I watched some utube video of flash codes...lol...I guess first things first b/c they are showing reading the flash code off the CEL light. Guess I need to make the light work before I can do anything.

I saw a comment that the inline 6 can achieve 30mpg




that's getting pretty close to my civic #'s

The other thought I had was just putting a tach in it to gauge my speed.

Monroe shocks blow - was just looking at their products.... lots of reviews...few of them were good.

ezone

Not sure about alignment headaches, but even when they were perfect they needed religious tire rotations because the front has the ability to eat the daylights out of tires. Especially when one frequently varies the ride height (loads in the bed can cause the front height to change greatly). Maybe that's a little exaggerated, but look at what the front camber does as the front end is raised and lowered.

But that front end is TOUGH.
And it's a truck, not a sports car.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/pre...uspension.html

CEL/Youtube, Found a page that has you using a voltmeter in the diag connector to read flash codes. http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/~r...eRetreive2.pdf

Still should make the idiot light work though. Can be handy to let you when you have a problem.

Garmin? GPS app on the smartphone?

Stock 99

Hey, thanks for the reply. I know I'm in a Honda forum,lol. I've been reading through Ford forums but OMG...pointless. Read,read,read through a thread only not to have the original question no answered but have a couple dudes have a good old conversation/argument about something totally unrelated....frustrating.

After reading about the I beam I sort of came to the conclusion maybe I should just drive it for awhile and get used to the TRUCK. I do fully understand about loads/tire arcing and alignment after all the reading last night. I guess I could just take a shock off it and check it.

The Thanksgiving this weekend and the weather is crap. Next week is supposed to be dryer (the truck is outdoors so I'm in the weather and natural daylight. :\

Thanks for the link to the flash code..eff I looked and looked and looked for info last night and ended up on Utube...I still haven't been able to find a FSM online...I might have to break down and actually buy one.

The guy I bought the truck off said he was using a cell phone GPS to measure but I don't cell phone...I saw a Garmin GPS at Can Tire for about $110.

So first I'll see if I can repiar that gear...2nd price out another cable? 3rd price out difference between tach/GPS. 4th just follow the guy in front of me.

Agreed though I want that CEL working as well.

It has new tires on it so I guess I'll do a rotation right away. I was looking at mountain bike that cost more than this truck last spring so I don't really want to dump a tonne of cash into it. I just want to be safe on the highway.

thanks for the advice ezone

ezone

Well figure out what is wrong first. Don't just change parts *****-nilly. I don't see the cable being the problem unless one of the ends has come unscrewed/unclipped and it's only making intermittent engagement. Cables are usually either good or bad.....Or bent.

For all I can guess from here, the drive gear inside the xfer case could be slipping or mislocated.

I drove my Buick with a flaky speedo for 10 years or more. I usually went with #4 and driving like a grandma.
Check the mileage and look at treadwear before you decide. I'd guess every 5000 ish miles or so or maybe every oil change depending on how it goes, IF decent treadwear is important to you. Some people don't care and just buy tires in pairs when needed.

If you look, the fronts wear the shoulders (edges) down in a hurry, whereas the rears wear very flat and even (due to the straight axle).

Stock 99

... I just got home from work and there's about 20 min of daylight left.

the good news is ... I found the EEC4 'Test' wires finally (over the drivers side fender in a mess of wire connectors)

the bad news is .... One of the wires broke off inside pretty much as soon as I touched it. It's all good though ... pretty easy fix for me.

Yeah, again I'm in no hurry and really no hurry to spend any money on it...more just thinking out loud at the moment...I feel really lost without having a service manual to reference at the moment. When I get to my days off this week I'm going to pull the back tire on the side the Ebrake cable is seized and see what the rear brakes look like and go from there.

I'm not in a super hurry to change the shocks either. I just though somebody would offer up some of their experiences with shocks. Apparently nobody here has ever owned a big vehicle or put shocks on one. LOL, I'm actually a truck guy driving a Honda... I figured there would be more of us. A friend of mine built his '88 4runner when I had my Toy...lol...35's - 3 inch suspension - 3 inch body. Whole group of us used to wheel on the back in the day.

I've only drove/driven it 50kms so far. Maybe I just need to get used to it before I condemn the shocks too much...been driving the Civic for 3 years now so the big truck seems super wobbly.

I like to do my due diligence before I drive a new purchase too much...

A new oil/filter, check, coolant and all other fluids (diffs,tranny,hydraulic fluid,lights,brakes,etc). I don't know how long the tires or how many kilometers the tires have since they've been rotated so start from now. The speedo doesn't work so neither does the odo. I really won't have any idea how many miles the tires rack up unless I fix that. If I didn't know I'd probably just do it once a year. It'll probably be lucky to see 5000km in a year. Maybe 150kms a week in the winter and a couple dump/reno runs in the spring/fall. If I like it some choice fishing in the summer months...maybe. lol

I'll keep a close eye on those tires as well. I could only find one receipt for tires and it was quite old so perhaps that's a positive sign it's not prone to chewing through tires.

ezone

Replaced plenty of them, but never had to live with the choices. Never owned one.
The biggest car I have actually owned was the Park Avenue.

My truck



Google for how to check date codes on tires, so at least you could know when they were made?

Stock 99

thanks for the tip...

this is what Canadians deal with...

They are Canadian Tire tires and the DOT code is.....

PJAK 3HKV

which means nothing as far as I can tell.

The only other #'s are after the tire size (235/R15/75) 104 1010

I know 104 = 900kg load rating. I don't know what 1010 is.

..do you have some smaller pictures of your truck? lol

ezone

Got 4 more digits there?



Um, Canadian Tire has tires made in their own name?


Linky: http://tires.canadiantire.ca/en/info-centre/tireAge/

Those are from the 'my garage' pics on this site.

ezone

While the entire Tire Identification Number is required to be branded onto one sidewall of every tire, current regulations also require that DOT and the first digits of the Tire Identification Number must also be branded onto the opposite sidewall. Therefore, it is possible to see a Tire Identification Number that appears incomplete and requires looking at the tire’s other sidewall to find the entire Tire Identification Number

Stock 99

Canadian Tires house brand is Motomaster but pretty much all their stuff is just rebranded - usually Cooper tires is their Motomaster brand.

I deal with Lordco more b/c they don't rebrand. NAPA rebrands too NAPA 'silver' and 'gold' products

That's pretty tricky with the DOT rules...

Apparently the tires are 0707 so new to me,lol

Who knows how long they have been on the truck though. Somehow I don't think the hand painted 'camo' Ford has been rocking the chrome centerlines for 6 years,lol

Somebody probably got tire/rims for cheap and slapped them on for maybe the last buyer? (few months ago)

EDIT: - I just pulled the tire receipt from 2007, I guess it has been rocking camo/chrome for 6 years.

Stock 99

You have to pull the entire dash and instrument cluster to get to the CEL bulb...nice build quality Ford.

A little zip zap with the old soldering iron got the CEL working again. yay!

Pulled code 67 & 84 on a none running engine.

I had a battery issue before I could try the running codes...

I think 67 means your A/C is missing and 84 is EGR valve... it got it right there...mines in like 3 pieces with a stain on the hood right above it. lol

Pulled the speedo cable today and it would seem it's the gear on the inside of the T case. From the reading I've done it's pretty cheap and you can drop the drive shaft and slide it in without cracking the case. Ford makes a bunch of different gear ratios for different tire sizes. The gear on the speedo looked brand new though.

The oil leak looks like front main seal.

EDIT: oh yeah, my CEL only comes on until the truck is started...it doesn't stay on.

ezone

Sounds like you're all good then! See what happens after you drive it several times.


Whoo. You got an awfully fancy iron there, do you solder for a living or something?

Stock 99

I actually drove the truck quite a bit today. What an effing pig...but I think I'll leave everything alone until after this ski season with the exception of Ebrake and transfer case gear for the speedo. I think if I start messing with the shocks it's going to create a chain reaction of front end work....fine when I don't need it next summer but not right now.

I put gas in it for the first time and there's some sort of venting problem. The minute I pulled on the gas it came right back out at me. I put $20 in and I had to do it at a snails pace. Venting? vent return hoses?

I was going to undercoat (rattle can) it as well. I power washed it super clean underneath today. What do you think about that?

Love my Weller soldering station...I've had it for a long time now and it's been well worth the money. I have a full complement of ends for it as well...

Well, I've made alot of money with it ...but not a living...

ezone

Yes there's probably a vent issue.............Is it frozen up there yet?
I'd have to check a few things in alldata.....(THIS IS A GUESS) the large vent hose between top of tank and the charcoal canister, and from the canister to the fresh air. Water can get in and freeze solid in any low spots, and spiders make nests in the vents.
Depending on how it's plumbed, this needs to be clear and open.
And, you know, check for kinks in the tube between the gas cap and the tank.


UNdercoat, (rubberized?) I think I'd rather oil coat the underside instead of seal it in with a rattle can. Undercoat can crack and peel and traps moisture.

Don't you have kroil winterizing up there, or something like that? Oh wait, I found it http://www.krown.com/

Found that mentioned here http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=554600

Stock 99

Funny,

As I was watching gas run down the side of my truck and onto the ground I remember the previous owner had mentioned this issue to me. I think after he said changing the fuel filter would fix a rough idle I just started to tune him out and look around for myself.

It's dipped below 0C the past few nights but considering it's a known issue probably not water/ice. I have a hand vacuum pump so the next time I get some time to work on it I'll try to clear the blockage with that.

I live in ECO/enviro ville undercoating your car with oil will land you in jail here,lol. Not really, I'd probably just be a social pariah. I've seen the argument go both ways for oil vs undercoating. I was doing my Toy with undercoating for +10 years and it still seems good. I haven't gone out with a hammer and screw driver to really test it though. It wasn't rusted like the Ford when I started either. Oil is messy and you have to do it every year... undercoat not so much. Again this is a disposable vehicle I'm thinking more just for appearance than anything.

British Columbia has a messed up insurance/vehicle system. Government run... you can insure pretty much anything no questions asked (no safety) BUT they periodically/randomly throw up vehicle inspection stations on the roads. If you don't pass your given 30 days to fix or remove your vehicle from the road. So some cosmetic things like undercoat can hide some sins and detract from more thorough inspection sometimes.

ezone

Got a sec to look.....There are many different configurations listed in Alldata, various tank sizes, wheelbases, dual or single tanks, chassis configuration, mid tank or rear, plastic or metal, etc.

Basically, the vent line (when equipped) is at the top of the tank (highest point) and should be free and clear and have no restriction when refueling. If the charcoal canister (emissions canister) has been disconnected and/or lines have been capped off, that could be the issue.