Might have made a huge D.I.Y. mistake - Page 2

DeX · 04-08-2009

The shop ordered the standard starter and we need automatic. They couldn't match the price on the two, for some reason the automatic version is $50 more since it doesn't have gear reduction or something. So now we got to wait for Napa to get back to us about how long it'll take to order one in. Basically I won't be going to her place tonight to mess with the distributor.

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gearbox · 04-08-2009

wow lol i hate it when that happens. how hard is it to order the right part. well i have another question, would you know why when sitting at a light stopped, with car in drive, sometimes the rpms will drop really low for no reason and then come back up? the car wont die but its very close and then recovers. i already cleaned out all the idle valves and intake system, new rotor, new plugs and wires, still does it. and when the car is cold and you start it, the rpm rev up like normal but then drops drastically and almost shuts off the engine. im almost tempted to say its the ect sensor (engine coolant temp) but i dont wanna keep guessing and replacing parts. also i can make the idle drop by using accessories or turning on the ac, but maybe thats normal my civic does it too but the rpm always goes back up to compensate.

CivicHatch9one · 04-08-2009

steve. did you screw the new rotor in? i know that honda motors you put the rotor on and screw it in... you may of had a loose screw and when you pulled it off the screw fell off.

gearbox · 04-08-2009

well the old one pulled off, and i didnt see any screw holes on the new or old rotor. the manual said it was just pull out and push in. and turning it would just turn the whole gear. the shaft had an indented part so the rotor only fits in one way. the new one was tight when i tried to turn it, but old one was loose. and new one seemed to be better quality made in japan part maybe it just fit better. i still dont know what flew out tho there was nothing else there.

CivicHatch9one · 04-08-2009

hmm.. my d15 b18a1 and b18c1 had screws... and i remember in my d15 the screw kept coming loose and the car would fall on its face and not start.... so i used thread lock. and after 5k the screw still came out and the rotor spun around mid driving and i was getting ignition when the exhaust valves were open. lol which led to a red hot cat. it was fun figuring that one out... but thats why i say that. bc im all too familiar with rotors in distributors... but maybe accords are diffrent.

gearbox · 04-08-2009

i hope so. im scared because something happened before with this car, the cap or rotor cracked or failed somehow still not sure, but the timing belt ended up skipping some teeth and the car pretty much died. they had to retime it and replace the distributor i believe. so i dont want that happening again. my parents dont like maintaining cars so i am trying to get everything back in shape now. im so glad the newer civics dont have that rotor and wires crap lol.

DeX · 04-09-2009

Could also be a clogged fuel pump or filter. That'd cause it to not get combustion if the gas isn't getting into the engine properly.

gearbox · 04-09-2009

yeah the fuel filter hasnt been changed yet i need to get that done. i tried to diy but cant get the connectors loose.

skipbarber · 04-10-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearbox

wow lol i hate it when that happens. how hard is it to order the right part. well i have another question, would you know why when sitting at a light stopped, with car in drive, sometimes the rpms will drop really low for no reason and then come back up? the car wont die but its very close and then recovers. i already cleaned out all the idle valves and intake system, new rotor, new plugs and wires, still does it. and when the car is cold and you start it, the rpm rev up like normal but then drops drastically and almost shuts off the engine. im almost tempted to say its the ect sensor (engine coolant temp) but i dont wanna keep guessing and replacing parts. also i can make the idle drop by using accessories or turning on the ac, but maybe thats normal my civic does it too but the rpm always goes back up to compensate.

try advancing the timing by rotating the distributor assembly as the vehicle is running. youre supposed to do it by canceling the computer advance and use a timing light, but ive been able to get it almost dead on just by listening to the idle.

gearbox · 04-10-2009

thanks for the tip. so you mean actually loosen the distributor bolts and rotate the whole thing? then the idle should change and hopefully go up a bit?

skipbarber · 04-11-2009

exactly. just be careful not to over advance it, you want the bolts more or less in the middle of the slotted distributor holes. And like I said, the proper way to do it is with a timing light.

Curiouz_G · 04-11-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by skipbarber

try advancing the timing by rotating the distributor assembly as the vehicle is running. youre supposed to do it by canceling the computer advance and use a timing light, but ive been able to get it almost dead on just by listening to the idle.

not everyone can self tune like you can edwin

skipbarber · 04-11-2009

Lolz

DeX · 04-18-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearbox

yeah if you dont mind, carefully pull off your rotor button and see if theres anything else on the gear shaft. the rotor is a small plastic piece that is on the side where the cap goes (inside, under the cap). it should just pull out and dont worry, it only goes back on one way. can you check and see if theres anything behind it after you pull it off, and also if you can turn the rotor LOOSELY when its installed. dont force turn it just use light pressure.

I unscrewed the three bolts holding the plastic cap on the distributor and there was nothing inside except a spring and a plastic flat turbine looking piece. Is this what you meant? There were 3 screws holding it on, each with their own washer, plus the pieces I just mentioned. I couldn't get anything else off of it, it was all held together pretty good.

And for anyone else, any idea how bad it is to have that oil spill out onto the engine and whatever else is there? I tried to clean off what I could with a rag and a toothbrush but it's impossible to get it all. I'm afraid the engine is going to heat up and it'll catch fire or something. Or smoke like crazy. Plus I checked the dipstick and it's still up to the second hole so it seems like I don't need to refill it with oil, is this possible? I guess not that much poured out, it looked like a lot though.

gearbox · 04-18-2009

it may smell like oil for a while but go away after a week maybe. just clean it off with carb spray.