Wankenstein

1995 Civic EX with B20B engine, manual transmission.

No crank issue. Headlights are bright, battery is three months old. Tried jumping..no change. No clicking sound while key is in 3rd position. Also, while in 3rd position the normal dash lights appear and dissapear with the exception of battery and oil lights which remain lit. Can hear fuel pump engage. Cable terminals are tight on battery and no corrosion present.

Tomorrow I plan to use jumper cables to bump starter directly as described in FSM. I watched a couple videos and read through a few threads: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...crank-3043090/ and here are possible suspects (no particular order):

1) rubber stopper behind clutch pedal (A) interlock switch a may have fallen off
2) clutch pedal interlock switch faulty
3) fuse #39 (engine bay).
4) starter cut-off relay
5) main relay (resolder)
6) transmission ground poor or missing contact
7) previous owner installed push button start

Anything I am missing?

ezone

1. Haven't you already checked if it is missing? Crumbled hard rubber pieces on the floor under the pedals? Pretty common as they age.
2. Floor mat wadded up under the clutch pedal?
5. PGMFI main relay can't affect starter operation
6. If you can operate the starter alone using a jumper wire or screwdriver, what does that tell you about the grounds to the block and trans?

Wankenstein

Rubber stopper pieces not seen on floor, under carpet or anywhere else. However, used flash light and checked for rubber stopper at the very top of clutch pedal and it's missing. There is only one clutch pedal switch that I can see. I tried using a screwdriver to press the switch in (assimilates pedal fully depressed) and start the engine at the same time but got very frustrated due to lack of space for my shoulders and the screw driver kept slipping off.

Tomorrow I plan to purchase (from local dealer) and install the rubber stopper. Afterwards if it still doesn't start I will remove the switch and press it in + try to start. Will try bypassing it with jumper wire if doesn't start by pressing it in.

I have yet to directly jumper wire the starter. Concerning the grounds I'm just regurgitating some replies in the thread I linked. If the starter works then must be grounded.

Until this issue I could start the engine with either the clutch depressed or in neutral without the clutch depressed.
Side note: cruise control is removed from car (as purchased).

ezone

Uh, someone already bypassed the clutch interlock? (bypassed the relay and/or switch on pedal)
No point in buying the stopper if the switch and system have been bypassed.

Try jumper wire- direct at the starter to verify it actually works. If no, give it a smack. Make sure the small solenoid wire terminal fits tight on the blade

I'd use voltmeter or test light to track power on the small wire on the solenoid while the key is twisted....if no, move to the ignition switch and check there

Wankenstein

Could this be part of the push-button start that was installed by previous owner(s)?

I will test transmission in neutral. Does the key need to be in ignition or turned to a certain position or does it matter at all since it just a "bump" test? To clarify is just one jumper wire needed from battery positive to positive side of starter solenoid..ground jumper from battery negative not needed? Sorry..I have weak knowledge with electrical issues.

Okay. Thanks.

ezone

OMFG. Who knows? Now you might get to track it all down and discover how this was hacked in.
Hell, test right at the wires for the button.
This check eliminates all wiring from the dash to the starter.


If you do this and it cranks, you verified the starter itself and verified the battery and cables are able to flow enough current to run the starter.

Wankenstein

Lol..are you making fun of my Frankenturd mobile?

Well, I'm an idiot but I think you already diagnosed that a long time ago.
Positive (small wire) lead fell off starter solenoid terminal tightened, reinserted and engine started right up.
Actually, some good did come out of it besides a free and easy fix. The positive cable from battery to starter was also loose on the starter. Tigtened down base (14mm) nut, added a lock washer, 12mm top nut now good and tight.

Found out (via you) that clutch interlock switch has been by-passed. Not too happy about that as it's a safety feature but, would probably do much more harm than good to try and fix it.

I think from now on I will diagnose first and then post. I've become very lazy looking for answers here first before taking the time to just get dirty. Damn enabler, you..lol

Thanks for the help.