soufigured

Hello I'm new here and new to hondas. I need some help with getting my 93 civic si (d16z6) to run like it used to. Its my very first honda and I've had it for around a year and it allways ran great until a couple months ago. So what's going on is that it seems like its getting to much fuel and not burning it all and it lacks any kind of power. I replaced the coil, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, o2 sensor, air filter, and fuel filter because they were fairly old and possibly the source of my problems. Now the problems seem to come and go, it will run right sometimes, but most of the time there is no difference. And since then I've noticed an air sucking type noise from the rear passenger side of the engine below the battery. I have a couple ideas as what may be the issue. But my thoughts are it may be the fuel pump or pressure regulator, the iacv, or fast idle valve. I can't really afford to replace all that, especially if it turns out to not be the problem. Any advice is greatly appreciated. This car isn't a top dollar weekend toy or anything, its my old beat up daily driver that I love to bits. Help me keep her healthy

ezone

check compression
Check for codes
Check cam timing
check fuel pressure
check exhaust backpressure

2) ????
3) Profit

soufigured

Timings good, no codes at all, and I know my exaust doesn't have any leaks atleast. Either way, how might I go about testing compression and exaust pressure and fuel pressure bearing in mind I don't have access to or funding for proper tools?

ezone

Local parts stores may rent specialty tools and equipment, Autozone does here. (I'm not familiar with any in Canada)

Public library may net you service information if you need it. One near me has access to Alldata.



Exhaust backpressure......if the cat converter were clogged it would result in high backpressure... free check would be to disconnect the exhaust between engine and converter and see if performance improves

Before getting into a fuel pressure test I might connect a voltmeter to the O2 sensor output and drive around while monitoring voltage, when it's low on power see if the voltage is near zero volts (lean)--- or if it is near one volt (rich), this might give some direction in the diagnostic path.
It cannot evaluate fuel pressure, and there are many reasons it could run lean....but at least it may give some direction to go after that.

HTH

soufigured

All right, well I know that my cat isn't blocked Because it fell off so I welded it all back up and checked it all out before putting it back in. And it is a brand new o2 sensor I put on after it started to run oddly. Edit. I've looked into renting what I need to check compression and fuel pressure, it seems that just about everywhere cut their tool renting programs a year or two ago. I can check Canadian tire, but last time I went there they said they were selling off their rental tools also, so hopfully im lucky. The compression is the biggest concern for me as this isn't the first time I been suggested to check that.

RIPSAW

How many miles on car?

soufigured

420000km or about 260000 miles

soufigured

does anyone know if the oil pump could possibly be the cause of any or all of these issues? ive developed some new symptoms that point me to a faulty oil pump

RIPSAW

Duh, are the symptoms a secret?

ezone

Did the engine lock up or is it now knocking loud like a Gremlin with a sledgehammer wants out?

soufigured

Your pretty close to bang on. I didn't mention the specific new symptoms as they are exaclty what one would expect of a faulty or clogged oil pump. Exsessive engine noise (clattering from valves and occasional 2 to 10 second grinding noises), and little to no oil under the valve cover. I suspect my oil light is burned out. I was just wondering if maybe exess stress from the engine not being properly lubricated could have been the cause of my fuel consuption issue. As far as the oil pump issue itself I'm going to pull the valve cover and pan off and inspect for damage. Should it seem okay ill just buy a new pump. And if there's any sign of damage ill just get a wreak yard engine for now

ezone

Does not exist in these randomly, these do not use hydraulic lash adjusters.

If you really have engine hammering going on, it's gonna be bottom end bearings.
Easy to check.
Or the oil pressure switch is bad


I've never seen a pump problem that wasn't caused by something else.


Connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge in place of the switch.
Run the engine, and if a problem is not obvious right away, get it all warmed up and see what the oil pressure really is when the engine is hot and has been running for an hour.

soufigured

Well to go into further detail my car has had an oil leak. And up untill recently its been easy to stay on top of by just looking for the oil light on sharp turns, if it ever came on all I had to do was add just about a liter of oil to get it back up to the top mark (the light would turn on during corners whenever the level was just under the add mark) but the light didn't come on for quite some time and I just attributed that to the recent colder weather untill I noticed a little extra noise than usual. So I checked the level and saw it was hardly on the stick. So I topped it up again. Then the next day the noises were much worse. And I guess important to add. I had to drive it about 2 km from where I decided to **** it down to avoid further damage to home so I can work on it today. I noticed during the bursts of grinding noise the idle drops to the point it almost stalls out. If the pumps don't normally die on their own what are some of the common root causes?

soufigured

okay so i have the everything exposed and ill try to best explain my findings, and possibly attach photos if i can figure that out. i drained the oil and removed the pan, in the bottom of the pan i found what looks to be either sand or crushed glass (no idea what it actually is thats just what it looks like) as well as some metal shavings about the size of a fingernail clipping and a dead wasp. (both how that got in there and stayed in there when i did an oil flush and change when i bought the car i dont know) under the valve cover there was hardly any oil (i have no idea how much should normally be in there but im sure its more than there was) and under the timing cover there was tons of metal shavings about the size of glitter. just trying to crack the main pully bolt loose with the belts still on (im currently working on getting the bottom potion of the timing belt cover off to do all the marking before i take off the timing belt) i noticed the bottom end will move a little and the belt pulls tight but the cam doesnt budge at all. could that be a bad cam bearing? would explain the grinding noise. ive yet to get the pump itself off. but to me it looks like ill be needing major work or just a new engine

soufigured

well i pulled more stuff apart, theres so much internal damage every issues its ever had is fully explained now. im goin to have to get another engine for it, and budget limitations mean wreak yard.. thanks to all who took the time to read this and give advice its much appreciated

ezone

That alone is very bad. Your engine apparently was going downhill for a while, but now that engine is a goner.

The idiot light is also known as the "TOO LATE" light.

The pressurized oiling system must be able to maintain (hydraulic) pressure in order to keep the bearings from destroying themselves with metal to metal contact.

General rule of thumb is 10 PSI for every 1000 RPM, and if your oil light comes on that means the pressure dropped below ....roughly 5 PSI is where the switch turns the light on.


That "sand" is metal. That's the destroyed bearings.



Good luck