Engine died while driving, won't start
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Sudden loss of power/ignition. Died as if it had run out of fuel. Won't start subsequently. Fuel pump primes and runs. Can't tell if there is spark because the leads to the plugs are too deep within the boots. Thought I heard arcing in the distro, can't be sure cuz I wasn't listening close enough, but if that is the case then maybe the rotor or cap is too worn to conduct enough for ignition.. Other than that I can't think of anything, checked all the fuses.. Unless none of the injectors are firing or a fuel line or filter is clogged, I have no idea.. Any ideas?
After doing some research, I will be checking the main relay as I've read it can cause issues, though it seems that is usually in hot weather while this happened suddenly while driving and has persisted with the car sitting for almost 24h, but I will check anyway.
After doing some research, I will be checking the main relay as I've read it can cause issues, though it seems that is usually in hot weather while this happened suddenly while driving and has persisted with the car sitting for almost 24h, but I will check anyway.
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Gee, thanks. I posted to brainstorm and get ideas.
Can't afford either anyway.
I have quite a bit of experience with cars, have rebuilt engines and fixed hundreds of problems.
I've only had 5 mins to try and diagnose and no tools handy. Just because I haven't had the time to check the basics properly does not mean I do not have the knowledge or capacity to learn. Even if I didn't know those basics, telling me I need a mechanic defeats the purpose of this forum.
I have never had to use a mechanic to fix a problem in my life, why start now?
Never had any prior issues with the car, has always ran great and started easy, even in -40 weather. I was driving it a bit hard that night but at the moment it died, I was driving gentle.
Can't afford either anyway.
I have quite a bit of experience with cars, have rebuilt engines and fixed hundreds of problems.
I've only had 5 mins to try and diagnose and no tools handy. Just because I haven't had the time to check the basics properly does not mean I do not have the knowledge or capacity to learn. Even if I didn't know those basics, telling me I need a mechanic defeats the purpose of this forum.
I have never had to use a mechanic to fix a problem in my life, why start now?
Never had any prior issues with the car, has always ran great and started easy, even in -40 weather. I was driving it a bit hard that night but at the moment it died, I was driving gentle.
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Engine died while driving, won't start
Ok, stick a screwdriver in the plug wire end and check for spark that way. Or take a wire loose from the cap and make a gap to check for spark.
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#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Engine died while driving, won't start
The bad section of the ignition switch does not affect the starter.
It will still crank just fine.
The switch loses the power feed that runs the engine, and the dash is usually dark like someone shut the key off when it dies.
Wiggle the key and the dash lights up again.
It will still crank just fine.
The switch loses the power feed that runs the engine, and the dash is usually dark like someone shut the key off when it dies.
Wiggle the key and the dash lights up again.
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It died at night so I would have noticed the dash lights being dead, they are not. CEL etc comes on and shuts off after 2 sec like normal.
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My brother suggests the timing belt may have slipped. I don't know if I agree with this since the D16A6 is an interference motor, I think I would have heard the valves getting smacked around and turning it over subsequently, sounds normal, perhaps if it slipped the timing would be too far off to start but.. I just don't think that would happen.
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Engine died while driving, won't start
My brother suggests the timing belt may have slipped. I don't know if I agree with this since the D16A6 is an interference motor, I think I would have heard the valves getting smacked around and turning it over subsequently, sounds normal, perhaps if it slipped the timing would be too far off to start but.. I just don't think that would happen.
If the timing belt only jumped a tooth or two, it can still run. But it will have low power.
Jumping time by any more than a couple teeth may keep it from running, and you can worry about valves.
You wouldn't hear the valves but once. They only make a little noise until they are bent out of the way of the pistons.
If it broke the timing belt, then you can worry. Remove the oil cap and have someone crank it. See if the visible rocker arms move as the cam turns.
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It sure can happen.
If the timing belt only jumped a tooth or two, it can still run. But it will have low power.
Jumping time by any more than a couple teeth may keep it from running, and you can worry about valves.
You wouldn't hear the valves but once. They only make a little noise until they are bent out of the way of the pistons.
If it broke the timing belt, then you can worry. Remove the oil cap and have someone crank it. See if the visible rocker arms move as the cam turns.
If the timing belt only jumped a tooth or two, it can still run. But it will have low power.
Jumping time by any more than a couple teeth may keep it from running, and you can worry about valves.
You wouldn't hear the valves but once. They only make a little noise until they are bent out of the way of the pistons.
If it broke the timing belt, then you can worry. Remove the oil cap and have someone crank it. See if the visible rocker arms move as the cam turns.
I should have it towed to my house tonight or early tomorrow and will have at least a screwdriver to take off the cap and try and see what's up
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So it's the coil.
While distro blew up. Coil was singed, rotor was wobbling wouldn't even stay on proper and cap was cooked.
Drive all around and couldn't find a cool to tonight. Will have to finish tmr.
While distro blew up. Coil was singed, rotor was wobbling wouldn't even stay on proper and cap was cooked.
Drive all around and couldn't find a cool to tonight. Will have to finish tmr.
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After two coils cuz a cheap champion distributor cap fried the first, were up and running.
Good cap/rotor : $40
Bad cap/rotor: $25
Coil:$120
Also got a coil from the junk yard, so might return that one to save cash.
Also got a full turbo kit for $150. Hehe.
Good cap/rotor : $40
Bad cap/rotor: $25
Coil:$120
Also got a coil from the junk yard, so might return that one to save cash.
Also got a full turbo kit for $150. Hehe.
#14
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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