OBD1 code 19
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Hello, I have a 1994 civic DX with a 1.5 JDM V-tec swap, added wire for V-solonoid and a P-28 ECU. The only code that I am getting is a code 19(Lock-up control solenoid, Automatic Trans only); appearently the ECU I used was from an automatic. I have a 5 speed and wondering is there a way to disable the Lock-up control solenoid or will I need to have the ECU swapped or reprogrammed. If I were to socket and chip the ECU...... Could I find the pin on the ECU for the Lock-up control solenoid and ground it? Any Ideas or better real experience IS apreciated.
Thanks,
Thom
By the way, GREAT site! Would not have found the code without the previous posts.
Thanks,
Thom
By the way, GREAT site! Would not have found the code without the previous posts.
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Thanks Lazlong,
I did find out that I could have the p-28 reprogrammed to delete the auto settings and to also add some performance. I think this is the way I will go. Now, hopefully the guy wasn't just pullin my chain and can really program it.
I will throw it out when it happens. Right now I can deal with the CEL for a little while until run across another ECU.
I did find out that I could have the p-28 reprogrammed to delete the auto settings and to also add some performance. I think this is the way I will go. Now, hopefully the guy wasn't just pullin my chain and can really program it.
I will throw it out when it happens. Right now I can deal with the CEL for a little while until run across another ECU.
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Thanks Lazlong,
I did find out that I could have the p-28 reprogrammed to delete the auto settings and to also add some performance. I think this is the way I will go. Now, hopefully the guy wasn't just pullin my chain and can really program it.
I will throw it out when it happens. Right now I can deal with the CEL for a little while until run across another ECU.
I did find out that I could have the p-28 reprogrammed to delete the auto settings and to also add some performance. I think this is the way I will go. Now, hopefully the guy wasn't just pullin my chain and can really program it.
I will throw it out when it happens. Right now I can deal with the CEL for a little while until run across another ECU.
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also dont repin it, just get the right ecu, it costs alot of $ to repin it right, and if you dont have any knowledge on it i wouldnt attempt yourself
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Thanks Goose,
I also have the dreaded RPM rise and fall after initial warmup. I have checked all vac hoses (unless I missed some) and replaced the IAC with a known good one. Still rise and fall. I can unplug the IAC and runs good, although the CEL then codes the IAC (14). Is it possible the idle setting for the auto trans in the ECU might be causing this?
My next step is to unplug the vtech solenoid and swap back to the original p06 "DX" ECU to see what happens while I wait to get another vtech M/T ECU.
Thanks,
Thom
I also have the dreaded RPM rise and fall after initial warmup. I have checked all vac hoses (unless I missed some) and replaced the IAC with a known good one. Still rise and fall. I can unplug the IAC and runs good, although the CEL then codes the IAC (14). Is it possible the idle setting for the auto trans in the ECU might be causing this?
My next step is to unplug the vtech solenoid and swap back to the original p06 "DX" ECU to see what happens while I wait to get another vtech M/T ECU.
Thanks,
Thom
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ive heard the iacv is different but to be honest idk? id say start with putting the right ecu in and resetting your memory first then see what happens from there. if its during warm up it sounds like a fast idle thermo valve ( they say you can service them) but i wouldnt recommend it, its never worked for me, i always replace them. but yea start with the ecu.
Thanks Goose,
I also have the dreaded RPM rise and fall after initial warmup. I have checked all vac hoses (unless I missed some) and replaced the IAC with a known good one. Still rise and fall. I can unplug the IAC and runs good, although the CEL then codes the IAC (14). Is it possible the idle setting for the auto trans in the ECU might be causing this?
My next step is to unplug the vtech solenoid and swap back to the original p06 "DX" ECU to see what happens while I wait to get another vtech M/T ECU.
Thanks,
Thom
I also have the dreaded RPM rise and fall after initial warmup. I have checked all vac hoses (unless I missed some) and replaced the IAC with a known good one. Still rise and fall. I can unplug the IAC and runs good, although the CEL then codes the IAC (14). Is it possible the idle setting for the auto trans in the ECU might be causing this?
My next step is to unplug the vtech solenoid and swap back to the original p06 "DX" ECU to see what happens while I wait to get another vtech M/T ECU.
Thanks,
Thom
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Thanks Goose,
I also have the dreaded RPM rise and fall after initial warmup. I have checked all vac hoses (unless I missed some) and replaced the IAC with a known good one. Still rise and fall. I can unplug the IAC and runs good, although the CEL then codes the IAC (14). Is it possible the idle setting for the auto trans in the ECU might be causing this?
My next step is to unplug the vtech solenoid and swap back to the original p06 "DX" ECU to see what happens while I wait to get another vtech M/T ECU.
Thanks,
Thom
I also have the dreaded RPM rise and fall after initial warmup. I have checked all vac hoses (unless I missed some) and replaced the IAC with a known good one. Still rise and fall. I can unplug the IAC and runs good, although the CEL then codes the IAC (14). Is it possible the idle setting for the auto trans in the ECU might be causing this?
My next step is to unplug the vtech solenoid and swap back to the original p06 "DX" ECU to see what happens while I wait to get another vtech M/T ECU.
Thanks,
Thom
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So, the guy at the safety and emisions place was awsome cool. 07 Civic and 95 Acura owner... Thanks man. Passed the car and now I am legal in the state. Well, legal enough......
I will be getting a p28-A0# soon, (College student wages).
As I was driving to get tags, I noticed a kinda of wizzing-whiring sound from under the hood when coasting and out of gear. Like, a possible vac leak at the brake booster?? Or PCV valve rattle?? It did stop or change tone (sometimes) when I tapped the brake. Brakes feel good and solid. There were no changes in tone of sound with speed or RPM (to rule out anything between wheels tranny).
Aside from PCV valve and brake booster, have you heard of a vac can being bad or a 2 way valve by the gas tank being bad?
Thanks,
Thom
I will be getting a p28-A0# soon, (College student wages).
As I was driving to get tags, I noticed a kinda of wizzing-whiring sound from under the hood when coasting and out of gear. Like, a possible vac leak at the brake booster?? Or PCV valve rattle?? It did stop or change tone (sometimes) when I tapped the brake. Brakes feel good and solid. There were no changes in tone of sound with speed or RPM (to rule out anything between wheels tranny).
Aside from PCV valve and brake booster, have you heard of a vac can being bad or a 2 way valve by the gas tank being bad?
Thanks,
Thom
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So, the guy at the safety and emisions place was awsome cool. 07 Civic and 95 Acura owner... Thanks man. Passed the car and now I am legal in the state. Well, legal enough......
I will be getting a p28-A0# soon, (College student wages).
As I was driving to get tags, I noticed a kinda of wizzing-whiring sound from under the hood when coasting and out of gear. Like, a possible vac leak at the brake booster?? Or PCV valve rattle?? It did stop or change tone (sometimes) when I tapped the brake. Brakes feel good and solid. There were no changes in tone of sound with speed or RPM (to rule out anything between wheels tranny).
Aside from PCV valve and brake booster, have you heard of a vac can being bad or a 2 way valve by the gas tank being bad?
Thanks,
Thom
I will be getting a p28-A0# soon, (College student wages).
As I was driving to get tags, I noticed a kinda of wizzing-whiring sound from under the hood when coasting and out of gear. Like, a possible vac leak at the brake booster?? Or PCV valve rattle?? It did stop or change tone (sometimes) when I tapped the brake. Brakes feel good and solid. There were no changes in tone of sound with speed or RPM (to rule out anything between wheels tranny).
Aside from PCV valve and brake booster, have you heard of a vac can being bad or a 2 way valve by the gas tank being bad?
Thanks,
Thom
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You mentioned the PCV could cause an idle jump, that would be more like a miss right? Not a rise and fall of the RPM.
A vibration-rattle may be a better discription of the noise. It sounds alot like a bad PCV valve I had on an F-150 except that it did not change when reving the engine.
Sorry, I have not been able to replicate the noise while not moving, so a video would be really difficult.
Yeah I am baffled on this one, the noise has a constant frequncy that is not changed by speed or RPM and only starts while coasting after acceleration.
Certainly this is related to the RPM raising and falling.
I will try to get more visual data tomorrow after school.
Thanks,
A vibration-rattle may be a better discription of the noise. It sounds alot like a bad PCV valve I had on an F-150 except that it did not change when reving the engine.
Sorry, I have not been able to replicate the noise while not moving, so a video would be really difficult.
Yeah I am baffled on this one, the noise has a constant frequncy that is not changed by speed or RPM and only starts while coasting after acceleration.
Certainly this is related to the RPM raising and falling.
I will try to get more visual data tomorrow after school.
Thanks,
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i mean like an rpm rise and fall yes. Your pcv will do this if it is faulty. to be honest im a little baffled myself your descriptions dont give a whole lot of insight. If it is kinda a whining noise when you are coasting off the gas, thats when your tb is closed, so itd be an intake prob. Also it would happen at idle as well. sounds to me kinda what happened when my iacv got stuck. Its rare to actually get stuck most of the time they just get dirty but mine got stuck to where it wouldnt fully open and close properly and would cause a whining/ whirring noise. You may try that to be honest.
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OK so I admit I had a MORON moment. Crainial flatulance,,, Sleep dep.
The noise does not matter in-gear, out-gear, accel, coast. The noise IS still the same tone and frequency at any speed or RPM and it is at random times. IDK, I will try to get it on vid or at least audio.
I will swap the PCV valve tomorrow.
Sorry about the mis inform. I will look closer tomorrow after bio test.
fan motor bearing, bad radiator cap, what else would have a steady sound and frequency that is not associated with the speed or RPM?
Sleep, sleep
The noise does not matter in-gear, out-gear, accel, coast. The noise IS still the same tone and frequency at any speed or RPM and it is at random times. IDK, I will try to get it on vid or at least audio.
I will swap the PCV valve tomorrow.
Sorry about the mis inform. I will look closer tomorrow after bio test.
fan motor bearing, bad radiator cap, what else would have a steady sound and frequency that is not associated with the speed or RPM?
Sleep, sleep
Last edited by thom77; 02-08-2011 at 09:58 PM.
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I am a Sofa King We tart Ed. The noise, even though it did not change with speed was the wear sensor on one of the brake pads. The wear tab was loose and vibrating.... I still have the rise and fall in RPM. I made a gasket for the IAC, replaced the PCV valve, no difference. I did go to "pull-a-part" and basically stripped a donor of all vac hoses and all sensors that connected to the hoses. In between snows I will start swapping out all these components to see exactly what it is.
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After swapping all the hoses and and the sensors attached to them, I still had RPM surges. Changed the intake manifold gascket, no change. Finally changed the throttle body and it stopped.
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when i had my b7 i popped a tb gasket once lol. Ive only had probs with the tb butterfly valve getting gummed up not so much the tb itself, but mehh it happens lolz.
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