Newfiedan

I do not have any pics but I did just install one in my 99 civic dx 5 speed with no power options (so I put in door lock solenoids to have keyless entry). First off learn to solder wires, this step is the best method of securing electrical connections and makes it almost impossible to seperate them without cutting the wire. Shrink tube all connections when done, I highly recommend double wall shrink tube as it not just closes off the connection but has glue inside that seals everything air tight. Most people who install them just either wrap the wires together or crimp them, if you just wrap them you are a moron, if you crimp them it works yes but I like to make 100% sure my wiring never causes me any trouble either from corrosion or coming apart as a lot of ppl do not crimp wires properly. Molex connectors work well and you can use shrinkable crimp connections but I like mine soldered and shrunk tube
***I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR USE OF THIS INFO YOU ARE LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES TO YOURSELF OR YOUR VEHICLE****

Tools needed;
1) Philips head screw driver short one and a long one
2) Side cutters
3) Wire crimpers/strippers, get good ones not those cheap ones to
properly crimp connections channel lock makes a good set.
4) About a half dozen yellow 12-10 gauge non insulted wire butt
connectors.
5) Shrink tube double wall 1/4" size and 1/8" size enough to cover all
connections. I buy it in 5 foot lengths at my local truck shops or in
packs at princess auto.
6) A good soldering torch or good soldering iron. I use a torch as its faster
not all ppl agree with me but I have been soldering using them for
years and they work well and I have had no issues.
7) A roll of good electrical tape (I like 3M)
8) About 1 dozen 10" and 3 14" black electrical zip ties for securing wire
harnesses.
9) 1 wire coat hanger unfolded and straightened.
10) 1 good sharp knife or a olfa knife. I like the olfa knives.
11) 1/4" drive rathcet with a 10mm socket and a 10" extension
12) A small tub to hold screws bolts etc.
13) 2 5/16" ring terminals 12-10 gauge
14) 1/4" split loom in black about 4 feet of it.
15) 20 feet or so of 2 wire if you are putting in keyless entry
16) 2 door lock solenoids if installing keyless entry
17) door lock module from commando alarms if putting in keyless entry

Ok start by opening the remote starter pack you should have a wire schematic with it, keep in mind some have different colour codes so distinguish what is what here, label with some masking tape and a marker if your paranoid or are totally unsure of what to do. I do not bother to label them as I have done lots of wiring in my years of automotive.
(onto the work)
Next we will prep the starter for install, start by plugging all the harnesses into the remote starter. On the main power plug for the remote start there will be 2 constant power wires that are fused(usually red wires). I cut these down to about half length making sure that I leave at least 4 " past the fuses, twist the 2 fused wires together and the attach 1 of the wires you cut off so that it forms a Y connection then solder them together. Next we are going to need to strip off about 1" of the ignition wire in the same harness (usually yellow), do the same for the starter wire (usually purple) and the accessory wire (usually orange) the green wire we cut so that about 4" remains on the plug and cap it with some of the shrink tube squeezing the end so that it closes off any possible wire connection to that wire. Next wrap them harness in electrical tape so that you have approx 3 " sticking out the end for connection to the vehicle harness.
Now move onto the 2nd plug which has ground, tach, hood switch, brake switch and parking lights in it. Colour codes are usually black, pruple, grey, orange, and yellow respectively. We will be using all these wires the hood switch and tach wires are longer for a reason leave them long for now, unless you do not plan on using the hood pin wire it is optional I do not use it so I cut it and cap it and tape it up to the main harness. We will tape these to our main harness for the remote start leaving at least half their length exposed.
Now onto the plug that has the whole host of spaghetti wires yes they are small but don't stress you will only be needing a few of them I wont list these as I am lazy but what you will be needing are the door input + wire which in my case was a blue/white wire and park brake output wire. If you are intending to put a trunk lock solenoid in then also leave the blue wire uncut. The rest I cut staggering the connections with at least 1" seperating them, then tape all them together to cover the cut off wires by at least 3 " also make sure that none of the cut wires are shorter than 4" just in case you want to go back and add stuff later. If you happen to have power locks then you will be needing the lock and unlock outputs but in my case I did not need these since I am using a door lock module from commando alarms.
Now we need to remove the dah panels to access the wiring for the car. I removed all the lower panels from the steering column, center console and glove box and drivers side kick panel and park brake cover. If you are not putting door solenoids in then just remove the steering wheel column cover and drivers kick panel center console and park brake cover. Next we remove that big steel J plate under the steering column (2 10mm bolts) the edges are sharp so be careful with it. Put that aside, and this will expose the wiring you will need to get to. At this point we are going to go disconnect the negative terminal on the battery DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!!! make sure you tuck the battery connection somewhere that it can not make contact with the battery terminal I usually zip tie it back so that it can't possibly do so. What you will be looking at on the steering column is 2 covered wire harnesses with a white zip tie holding them onto the steering column. Slide the drivers seat all the way back and you should have pretty decent access to the wires. Cut the zip tie off using the side cutters be careful not try to expose about 6 to 7" of wire if possible (I had no problems doing this) What you will see when you have both wire harnesses exposed are 6 or so heavy 12 gauge wires) The colour codes are as follows:
White - Constant 12 v+
Black/White - Starter
Accessory - Yellow wire (this 1 is for the blower motor use this 1 if you
want the blower motor to come on with the remote start)
Accessory - White/black (this 1 is for the radio I dont use this 1 unless
you want the radio to come on with the remote start)
In my case it was connections as follows;
white from ign harness connected to red remote starter side
black/white ign harness connected to purple wire remote starter side
yellow wire ign harness connected to orange wire remote starter side

Now get your remote start with the attached harnesses and set it on the floor, the heavier wire plug is the one you will want that has the ignition wire, the battery wires and the accessory wire in it. You are going to cut and strip off about 3/4" of wire on either side of the wire on the cars ignition harness that you just exposed. Do these 1 at a time to prevent mix ups. Start with the white wire, cut that one about mid point of the exposed wire and strip off 3/4" or so off each end, put 1 piece if 1/4' shrink tube on the end closest to the drivers side and slide it back as far as possible from your connection. Next take 1 of the butt connectors and crimp onto the end with the shrink tube. Next take your battery wires from the remote start harness and twist the red and white wires together and insert them into the butt connector and crimp it (make sure no loose strands are sticking out prior to crimping the connection) Now solder the connection to form a permanent connection. Wait for it to cool and then slide the shrink tube over it and shrink it down onto the connection. Repeat the process for the ignition wire and the accessory and starter wires. Just make sure that your flame from the torch is not heating any of the surrounding connections you already made. Once you are done try to cover the wires with the black plastic covering and then cover it all in 2 wraps of electrical tape the remote start harness should have all its wires on the passenger side of the steering column.
Onto the 2nd plug, the ground wire I attached to the chassis try to find a factory bolt to secure this to I found a nice one in the center console area behind the panel for that covers the shifter but there are a few locations you can use. If you use 1 of the steering column bolts make sure you have a ring terminal large enough to go over the bolt. The tach and hood pin wires are next, go under the hood next to the brake booster you will see a rubber grommet about 1/5" in diameter on the firewall with nothing going through it. Remove that and make a very small slit in it with your knife tip. insert your coat hanger into this hole pointing it down towards the floor as you put it in, it will go pretty easily do this for about 1/2 the length of the hanger. Now inside the car you should see the tip of the hanger tape the hood pin and tach wires to it. Now go back outside and pull the wires through the firewall make sure you do not scuff them on the edge of the hole pull about 12-14" out into the engine bay. Now for those who want the hood pin find a place to mount it and run the grey wire to it, I do not use the hood pin so I just capped it inside the car and ran the tach wire. Put the use wires through the grommet and insert the grommet back into the firewall use soapy water to lube the wires if you have trouble sliding the grommet along the wires. The tach wire runs to the 2 wire plug by the brake booster, its the tach diagnostic plug has just 1 wire in it but has 2 pins its a blue wire and the plug slides of the bracket for easy access to that wire. I run it here for 2 reasons easy access and its away from engine heat. Expose the bue wire and about half of the exposed length cut the wire and then strip back some for the connection to the purple wire solder and then shrink tube this with your 1/8" shrink tube. Make sure that its sealed and no wire is exposed this 1 is a little harder to cover but if you do make a mistake coat it with some liquid electrica tape followed by black tape. Now put that plug back in place and loom the purple and grey wire (if used) and tape it about every 5" and secure it in the open clip by the brake booster or with zip ties along its length every 6" or so. The remaining wire inside the car we will secure to the factory harness. Onto the parking lights wire and the brake switch wires. The brake switch wire is located at the brake switch its the green and white wire its going to be a pain to get at so what i did was cut then extend the wire with some of my leftover wire from the tach to get it out where I could access it more easily soldering and shrink tubing the connections it took about 4" of wire to extend it out where I could reach it easily then wire the brake switch wire to that forming a Y connection, soldering and shrinking it. The parking lights wire is easier to get at that is in the plug above the fuse panel its a red/black wire you can test it with a test light if unsure. Cut that then attach your park light wire to it again soldering and shrinking it. Almost there guys.
Next onto the last plug we will be running the door pin wire to the light green/red wire in the drivers kick panel there is enough slack there to cut and solder your wire to it. In my case it was the blue/white wire connected to the light green/red wire. If you have factory keyless entry then you will need to connect the wires for the lock/unlock to the factory ones I did not do this but here they are;
<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=3 width="100%" bgColor=#ffffff align=center><TBODY><TR vAlign=top bgColor=#dddddd><TD class=spce>Door Lock</TD><TD class=spcel>Green/White (-) </TD><TD class=spcel>Above Fuse Panel or Keyless Module or behind Radio Green Connector </TD></TR><TR vAlign=top bgColor=#eeeeee><TD class=spce>Door Unlock</TD><TD class=spcel>Green/Orange (-) </TD><TD class=spcel> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Those will connect to the lock/unlock wires in this plug. I had to run my own solenoids for this part. Next remove the cover for the park brake wire and run the orange wire from this harness to the park brake wire I went to the switch itself at the park brake since I want it close to the switch switch connect it there. I am do not remember the colour code here but its 1 wire right at the park brake easy enough to get at. The wire for the antenna I ran up the drivers side A pillar securing it to the factory wiring, and stuck the antenna just above the drivers rear view mirror about 2" below the roof liner they recommend 3 but I found 2 to work just fine. You will need to remove your sun shade to loosen the headliner enough to tuck that wire away in the head liner area. I then secured the wire to the factory harness using zip ties. Plug that into your remote starter. Now if you are using an automatic then cut the yellow loop as instructed in the wiring pic for 5 spds leave it alone unless you want to be able to start it like an automatic which I do not recommend. Here is the bit that they do not supply a wire for and that is the clutch switch bypass. You can do this 1 of 2 ways, the easy way is to unplug it and then cut and join the 2 wires (on the wire side ) together this means you will be able to start the car without pushing the clutch switch. If you do this leave enough wire on the plug to undo what you did down the road. The other way is you use a relay that ties into the starter wire this wire will activate the relay, you attach that wire to pin 86, pin 85 goes to ground, pin 87 and 30 goes to the clutch switch wires 1 per side you will need to extend these wires to the relay using female spade connections. I do not bother with this as I never leave my car in gear when I park it ever so I just bypass the clutch with the 2 wires connected. If you do due to a faulty park brake wire then do this bypass just keep in mind that if its in gear the car will moven when you start it and you are an idiot for leaving it in gear to begin with and not getting the park brake fixed. All the relay will do is make it so that the clutch switch is still functional its entirely your call and I am not liable for your actions either way. Well if you are not putting in keyless entry you are ready to test, if you are putting in keyless entry go to part 2 now.
Do not tie up everything just yet guys, test it first before closing it all up. Go and reconnect the negative terminal off the battery then if you used the hood pin follow the procedure for programming it via the hood pin. If you did not install the hood pin the get in the car, close the door and use the programming button on the side of the remote starter to program the remote. Once you have programmed it start your car then release the park brake, press the brake rengage the park brake and arm the system. Get out close the door and shut the car off via the remote. Wait a few seconds then try to start the car. If it did not start then recheck the wires for the ign harness and make sure you bypassed the clutch switch like I said. Check all the fuses and rearm and retry the remote start again. If you did everything right it should work first time around. If not then post here and I will try to help you out. Thats it your all done if it worked well, tape/zip tie the harness as close to the factory one as possible, let the remote hang down until after you have put the metal J bracket back in place. Make sure you are well clear of that bracket and that none of your wiring comes close to it, if it does then insulate the edges with some of your left over loom or some duct tape. With the metal J bracket secured put the remote start above the factory harness and secure it to that so that its all tucked away and no wires are hanging down. Put all the panels back in place and you are done good job.

Pt2. Installing keyless entry.
For my keyless entry I used 2 door lock solenoids with 2 wire (1 black 1 white) ran into the doors and solenoids secured just behind the arm rest area where it was open and cleared the door skins. The 2 wire is then secured along the door frame that the door skin attaches to with a few zip ties so that the window can not touch it anywhere when rolled down. Check this if you are adding door lock solenoids. The hardest part here was getting the wiring through that stupid little factory door rubber that the factory wires are in, its hard to get at the ends to take it out of the body to run the wires, I ended up unbolting the door stop from the body to open it more to access the rubber, use the coat hanger tape the 2 wire to it soak it with some soapy water then run it through that rubber piece, it will take some time so be patient. Once you have it through the rubber run it into the car and put the rubber back into place, for the passenger side run the wires along the factory harness behind the glove box to the remote starter area same for the drivers side secure it to the factory harness to the remote start area. Next we need to connect it to the commando module, there will be a purple wire which needs a constant 12 volt source, I took that from the remote start but you can do it from the fusepanel using a bussmann bp/hhh fusetap or similar. The brown and white wires are grounded to chassis, the green and blue are your lock/unlock. Make sure that you used black for lock and white for unlock, you can test these off the battery prior to install. I highly recommend testing these with the door skins installed as it makes sure that everything works like it should clearance is tight in there so double and triple check it also note that the drivers door need to be either close or use a screw driver to close the latch so you test it with it open. It took me about 2 hours to find a good spot and test/retest the solenoids for smooth operation with the door skins on. Now you will connect the black wire to the green wire and the white wire to the blue wire do not solder these yet as we will need to test it for proper operation. Plug the module into the remote start. Then follow the instructions for programming and testing the remote starter and test the lock/unlock function make sure its hooked up right. If all works well then go ahead and solder/shrink the connections for the lock and unlock features and you are good to go with tieing and securing everything in place like I instructed earlier. You can mount the remote start in another location the reason I put it where I did was for ease of access for troubleshooting should you run into any issues down the road. I secured the lock module to the remote start using some electrical tape as an fyi. You can mount it with a zip tie if desired.

So thats it, all installed and good to go, enjoy your remote start guys. Feel free to post comments or things you did which made it easier, job took me about 3 hours to complete.

Newfiedan

As an added note I had a friend run his antenna wire up the passenger side a pillar and he had issues with the remote start working on the highest fan setting so if you did run it that way that is the cause of poor remote function the factory fan generates intereference with the antenna signal when its on 4.