Using dielectric grease and anti-seize on spark plugs
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Rep Power: 0 Using dielectric grease and anti-seize on spark plugs
I put anti-seize on the spark plug's threads, maybe a little too much. Then, I put dielectric grease on the metal terminal and white porcelain part. Should I have or should I not have put it on the metal terminal connector of the spark plug where electricity is conducted from the boot? Did I prepare this spark plug correctly for installation?
#2
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Re: Using dielectric grease and anti-seize on spark plugs
Well, you made a mess of it.
That is WAAAAY too much anti-seize.
I use probably 1/20 of that.
The anti-seize that is below the first thread can end up on the electrode and cause the plug to misfire or foul. I like for the anti-seize to start just after the first thread.
The anti-seize that is all over the rest of the threads will be wiped off when it is screwed in, and leave the majority of it around the outside of the hole.
If you wipe off all you can with a rag, there will probably still be plenty left to do the job. That's how much excess you have there.
A little goes a loooong way.
Ever get it on your fingers and see just how many places it ends up?
Ever find the crap getting on stuff and you have no damn idea where it is coming from?
I start with a teensy-weensy smear on just the first couple or three threads. It will be distributed all through the rest of the threads as it is screwed in.
----------------------------------------------------
With the Dielectric Silicone, it is to be applied in the rubber plug boot, not on the plug itself. (On engines that use plug wires, do NOT apply this stuff to the boots on the distributor cap or coil packs on a GM product. The reason involves a tow truck and a pizzed off customer.)
I put a little bit in the end of the plug boot, and smear it all the way around with a pocket screwdriver.
Its main purpose is to allow the boot to release from the porcelain later in life.
I don't put any on the plug itself.
What this is going to do is make a mess out of the rubber inside your spark plug socket.
HTH
That is WAAAAY too much anti-seize.
I use probably 1/20 of that.
The anti-seize that is below the first thread can end up on the electrode and cause the plug to misfire or foul. I like for the anti-seize to start just after the first thread.
The anti-seize that is all over the rest of the threads will be wiped off when it is screwed in, and leave the majority of it around the outside of the hole.
If you wipe off all you can with a rag, there will probably still be plenty left to do the job. That's how much excess you have there.
A little goes a loooong way.
Ever get it on your fingers and see just how many places it ends up?
Ever find the crap getting on stuff and you have no damn idea where it is coming from?
I start with a teensy-weensy smear on just the first couple or three threads. It will be distributed all through the rest of the threads as it is screwed in.
----------------------------------------------------
With the Dielectric Silicone, it is to be applied in the rubber plug boot, not on the plug itself. (On engines that use plug wires, do NOT apply this stuff to the boots on the distributor cap or coil packs on a GM product. The reason involves a tow truck and a pizzed off customer.)
I put a little bit in the end of the plug boot, and smear it all the way around with a pocket screwdriver.
Its main purpose is to allow the boot to release from the porcelain later in life.
I don't put any on the plug itself.
What this is going to do is make a mess out of the rubber inside your spark plug socket.
HTH
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Rep Power: 288 Re: Using dielectric grease and anti-seize on spark plugs
^ I agree with everything you said. However, I thought dielectric silicone was to keep moisture out, to prevent corrosion of the two metals that are making contact. Essentially no oxidization so you always have a good connection. I don't think it has much to do with releasing from the porcelain but I could be wrong!
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Using dielectric grease and anti-seize on spark plugs
I thought dielectric silicone was to keep moisture out,
That's a biggie. Yes, yes, yes.
to prevent corrosion of the two metals that are making contact.
Essentially no oxidization so you always have a good connection.
It is also an insulator, so I really don't think one should be applying it to the contacts.
I don't think it has much to do with releasing from the porcelain but I could be wrong!
Ever dealt with anything American? Try getting original wires off of a 2.8/3.1/3.4/3.5/3.8, the rear bank.
It's easier to snap the end of the plug off with a prybar, than it is to attempt to get just the boot off.
Yes, it is used as a release agent.
Actually, I just found this, it seems to support what I wrote: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon...lectric_grease
That's a biggie. Yes, yes, yes.
to prevent corrosion of the two metals that are making contact.
Essentially no oxidization so you always have a good connection.
It is also an insulator, so I really don't think one should be applying it to the contacts.
I don't think it has much to do with releasing from the porcelain but I could be wrong!
Ever dealt with anything American? Try getting original wires off of a 2.8/3.1/3.4/3.5/3.8, the rear bank.
It's easier to snap the end of the plug off with a prybar, than it is to attempt to get just the boot off.
Yes, it is used as a release agent.
Actually, I just found this, it seems to support what I wrote: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon...lectric_grease
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Rep Power: 288 Re: Using dielectric grease and anti-seize on spark plugs
Ok awesome thanks for the answers without me searching. Again I thought you applied it to the boot (essentially the contact) so it isolates the contacts from the outer elements. I see where your going with it though, if it gets between them it will prevent electric flow. Oh yea I don't have much experience with anything domestic lol.
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