2kej6

Alright maybe a month or so ago I posted about surging idle etc. turned out to be air in cooling system after a flush. This time it seems to be back with a vengeance. Car has been on front jacks for 2 weeks up until Monday, EX intake manifold installed using y7 TB and y8 cable assembly. Started up and ran actually nicer then the y7 smooth even idle, and again, had to bleed cooling system to replace heater hose...bled this one right 1st time until...while 2 front wheels were elevated I wanted to start it for a minute to get fluids moving etc...1st start (black gassy smelling water shot 2 feet from exhaust white smoke not sweet smelling and idled like a maniac found out ngk wires #1 and #2 were mixed- oops. I am working in the garage and have yet to be able to let it idle long enough with smoke and high rpm surge...furthest I've gotten with it is 1 its off stands 2 all plugs sensor connected stopped surging while covering iacv hole inside of TB - faulty iacv?
Now, finally I'm wondering is my iacv isn't shot again..(I did replace it with a cheap amazon deal. And now it sit upside down - does that have anything to do with it?
I'm trying here with this d series...at midnight I have 480$ clearing for play money (army benefit) and I've priced B20s from 250-400..Really need to weigh options. Thoughts?

side note: Can I use an ex TB with its original Iacv? today is 50% off at pick and pull and they have around 11 ek's alone..
Also I purchased a block off plate for intake manifold that was installed where the old iacv sat..i believe

Wankenstein

Pull correct OEM IACV from junk yard and install a new IACV gasket. Clean the junkyard IACV thoroughly prior to install. Clean the throttle body thoroughly too with TB cleaner (if not done recently) and replace the TB gasket.

2kej6

did I do it right?



So, after seeing another corner of the head/block mating surface I decided on a fresh vtec head price wasn't bad or being rebuilt and maybe ill take it up a notch and throw in an aggressive cam...where I'm located our pick n pull has 3 days of 50% off everything with 11 EK's in stock so I planned on grabbing the TB and IACV anyways...then also trying to get a list together of what else is needed for pj2 or is it p2j? whatever...I also have still a 5 speed sitting from a 95 ex/si (B0000) figuring if I need to use that or try to upgrade the auto and keep it as a DD...im confident with google, my all data, chilton I can do the head but auto to manual?? may have to research more...non of the shops I call out here (cali) want anything to do with that..."legal smog stuff bla bla" so may look into upgrades to auto or even the hx cvt? idk....
anyways I can still use the ex TB and IACV on the ex manifold I have on now...hoping that fixes it bc my lx TB etc makes the IACV sit upside down and I wonder if that's why I burn coolant?? idk....off to the pick and pull/ my Zen garden haha cheers

Wankenstein

I can't say whether or not you did it right..I am just recommending to replace the TB and IACV gaskets as they can potentiolly draw in unwanted air if they are in poor condition. I have not performed a mini-me swap however there's plenty of info on it online: https://www.google.com/#q=nda+civic+mini+me+swap&*

Also, I haven't used an aftermarket IACV and can't say whether the one you purchased works properly or not but, I do know OEM should be a better choice..even a used one in good working condition which is much less expensive then new OEM.

If it's leaking or losing coolant than air may be getting into the coolant system during heat and cooling cycles which would cause the initial surging idle to return. Can you spot any coolant inside the throttle body or intake manifold using a bright LED flashlight?

Sounds like it would benefit your engine to pressure test the coolant sysyem to find any/all coolant leaks. Rent (free) a pressure tester from Autozone or O'reilly's and do a pressure test while the coolant system is cold (unused overnight). Do not exceed the psi rating listed in service manual or possibly on the radiator cap during pressure test.

2kej6

The "did I do it right" question was suppose to follow the link to my purchase and be sarcastic/humerous...guess not lol. well after about 3 weeks in the garage random parts here and their desperately trying to stop the beginning of a head gasket failure She finally starts - no smoke. no water. Idle according to live data started at 861 and maintained for 20 min or so...2nd start up (just to make sure) it went and stayed around 725..low for my taste but according the manual was good. My guess was the recent mod of the y8 intake manifold not resetting ecu afterwards and then manually trying to adjust throttle cable threw it into surge mode every time...then I read up on the manual (2000page one) and figured out all my dumb little mistakes added up...

It still definitely needs a head gasket and I've ordered that. Along with the y8 head. Delivery is tomorrow...ever since I bought it I swear that head doesn't line up right with the block..so tomorrow either begins instant mini me...or I install gasket for now and thoughtfully build a nice all motor y8...though I'm not that patient for that, may try to do some sort of "update" page...definitely wont qualify as a "how to" I appreciate the input though. I do have an "eBay each that's held up so far until I have the $ to get genuine. Checked it out it was still clean. And at one point I had an Integra ls TB bolted up but decided not to even attempt it...woulda been nice.. I still have my suspicions about the 6 month old kayo...nice little puddle on the shroud every am...not too much but enough to annoy me I guess...WELP until next time. enjoy some pictures of this mess. Also included some live data from the idle..I know I'm throwing cell for missing o2 sensor (header) and now a P1366? Cake sensor...rubbed little raw buy alternator so need to patch..

2kej6

Hello fellow 6th gen owners and happy Friday night/Saturday morning. Some of you have seen my post(s) about the surging idle issue. I did a broad diagnosis between your response and Google and said the head was bad - I mean it is leaking fI can visibly see it #1 just not overheating etc until today...Wanted to test drive it so let it idle for a minute in the driveway...heat is going but only blowing out luke warm air. Temperature gauge climbs to right over the halfway mark and the live data says 203 degrees ( I think fan comes on at 204) I wait and wait no fan jump it- it kicks on...? then comes the burning smell of idk what...a POP and I decided not to drive it today. Under the hood its clean no obvious explosion signs? only code I have is a 1337 from crank sensor being chewed by the alternator belt...I ordered a rebuilt y8 head for the block assuming its good. However now I am considering replacing the gasket while I collect the rest of the y8 parts -maybe even built one but its a matter of days now until this thing pops I believe...added some pictures and video...as for the video is that normal? sound to me like air being sucked in as well??

edit come to find out that pop noise was my AT dipstick??it had popped halfway off and when I pulled it to check it popped again like trapped air?



video

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_...jAya3Utck1XRXc