LucasFish

I just changed my spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor, now the car will crank but not start. Car was starting up fine before hand. I'm positive I replaced the wires in the proper arrangement. The only things I can think that went wrong were possibly the spark plugs getting wet since I was working outside, or disrupting a wire in the distributor while changing the cap and rotor.
I used NGK plugs and wires from a TBK tune up kit off Amazon, so I feel like those should be in order. I'm going to test the wires for a spark in the morning, but I'm not sure what else to be looking for or testing. Any ideas on what might be causing these issues?
Thanks ya'll!

Colin42

Double check the wires (look up a firing diagram), check that you have spark, check that you get fuel to the cylinders, (crank the engine and then pull a plug to see if its wet), check that the engine is getting air through the throttle body. If those all look ok check compression. I have a feeling something may have failed in the distributor. Do you know anyone with a another 6th gen civic you can borrow a distributor from to try in your car?

LucasFish

Double checked the wires and such and put the old parts back, and still no start. I took apart the distributor and found it was leaking a bit of oil. I don't know anyone who would let me test another distributor, and I also don't have a test screwdriver to check the coil. Is there a safe way to check the coil with simple tools like a regular screw driver? Can there be corrosion to the connection due to the oil leaking?
I'm really hoping I don't have to walk to the auto parts store to buy a new distributor, but from what I read it's recommended if the distributor is leaking oil. Not sure if there is something in specific I should be replacing instead of tossing $200 at a whole distributor?

Colin42

Junkyard dizzy for like $30?
Did you check if you're getting spark and fuel yet before you go buy more parts?
There's also a main relay that can fail and cause a no start, but you need to check and see if you're getting spark and fuel first

Colin42

Also they used two different distributors so take pictures of the one you have so you dont get the wrong one

LucasFish

I'm getting no spark from the wires, but I still have yet to test the coil. Not sure how to go about testing the coil without the proper tool. I can hear my fuel pump start up, and the car has a full tank of gas. Fuses are in order as well.
Pulled apart the distributor to check for corrosion and the positive and negative points had build on them, so I cleaned those up. I was able to pull apart the ignition control and that seemed fine. Checked the wires for any breakage and there wasn't any broken or exposed wires. Sadly was unable to pull out the ignition coil, because of stripped screws. Just put it all back together and still no start.
Not sure if the main relay would be the problem, but I'll try and check out the circuit board. I think the distributor in general is the culprit. Looks like the previous owner has attempted to pull apart the coil and failed as well looking at the stripped screws. Considering the car was starting up just fine before changing the cap and rotor, and the fact that it's leaking oil, I figure it's best to change out the whole distributor right, instead of fighting to remove the coil?

Colin42

If you've narrowed it down to the distributor and you're going to be fighting stripped screws and rust then I would just grab another one from the junkyard. Keep your old one for parts and switch over the new cap and rotor to the junkyard distributor. Try to find the lowest mileage civic there with the same distributor and grab it.

LucasFish

Thanks for all the reply's man! I'm going to try the junkyard tomorrow and hopefully they have a good selection of parts. The junkyards up here are pretty small in comparison to the ones in Detroit. Will keep you updated once I figure it out!

Colin42

Sounds good, make sure you bring a picture of your old distributor, especially of the electrical connector

mac25

Stop being cheap, a test light is like $8.

ezone

Got a neighbor or coworker you don't like, or younger sibling that you tease too much?

Have them hold on to the business end of the ignition coil while you crank the engine over. IF you hear any screaming, cussing, or a fist or head slams into the open hood creating a large dent from the underside, you can be assured the coil is sparking at least a little bit......which verifies the ECM and igniter are working.

Next step would be to see how big a lightning bolt the coil can throw. Can it create enough spark to jump a 10mm air gap to (the grounded test tool)?




You don't need a diagnostic screwdriver. A tool can be improvised from almost nothing, if you know what you are doing. I've done the check with a coat hanger because it was the handiest metal thing I could find.....and a rag wrapped around it so I didn't get shocked. Much.

Wankenstein

The distributor has two o-ring seals.. one is external (outside of housing) and one internal (inside housing). Sounds like your's is leaking from the internal seal. You could replace it, clean inside of distributor with electronic cleaner & lube.. will it work ? possibily. Used replacement is probably a better option as has been suggested.

Carbuff2

Whoa Whoa Whoa



Since you had a running engine beforehand (and you need to walk or take public transportation now ) it's time to think about WHAT YOU DID.


Hopefully you saved the old parts, right? I'd suggest that you throw the old distributor rotor back in.

More than once I've seen rotors that 'short', and send the spark directly to ground through the inside of the part. Cheap, third-world-sourced parts are more likely to do this.

Good luck, these issues can be difficult to identify.

LucasFish

So I got a brand new distributor installed and still no start. It sounds even worse than when it initially wouldn't start. There's a burning smell now when I try to start it as well. I'll probably take a video of the car trying to start to give you guys a better idea of what I'm working with.
A coworker suggested checking the timing belt to see if it's off. Any clue if this might be the problem?
I've already tried putting all the original parts back on, and it still won't start. I'm working with a brand new distributor, rotor, cap, spark plugs, and wires. I feel like this should have fixed it, but this **** still isn't working.
Battery is still going strong, and there's no reason I can think of for the car not getting sufficient air or compression. Full tank of gas too. A fuse being out wouldn't cause the engine to burn either. I feel like I should have fuel, air, and a spark for ignition.
All of this is making me hate automobiles, even though I love mine so much!

LucasFish

So, I finally got the car starting after a lot of trial and error! The rotor bearing was shot in the previous distributor, and in the process of changing the rotor out I most likely threw the timing belt off. Had a buddy come over to help me with a timing light and got it running again! It also sounds a lot better idling too!
Thank you for all the input guys! I'm so glad I can put that problem behind me now!