eddie1976

I think I need to replace the fuel pump. Does anyone know the torque spec for the retaining nut for the fuel pump? Since it is a plastic nut going onto the plastic threads on the gas tank, I don't want to over tighten. I saw on reference on parts sellers sight that said 69 ft lbs. That seems really high, was hoping someone has a manual that they can reference.

thanks

Colin42

The big lock ring on the tank? It's gasketed, so as long as its down tight it should seal ok it you feel 69 ft-lbs is too much try 45 and see how that does?

eddie1976

Thanks. Was hoping to see what the actual spec is for this. I don't want to have it be too loose and leak, or go too tight and crack something.

Mods, looks like I put this in the wrong section. Should have gone in 7th gen. Please move. Thanks!

mac25

...I remember removing mine was a Bit**; I had to use a hammer and block of wood and ended up sheering off two or three fins.

When I put it back I used motor oil on the gasket and threading so it would be easier to remove later (like you would on an oil filter gasket).

I haven't had any leaking issues.


...but I also haven't tried to remove it in over two years to see if the oil made it easier.

ezone

Actual spec I just looked up says 69 ft-lb., but if you don't have the right tool for the lock ring, the spec might be semi-useless. It's just gotta be tight enough to not leak.

WHY do you want to replace one of Hondas nearly bulletproof pumps, and what are you going to replace it with?

eddie1976

I saw a leak, thought it was the tank leaking. Look at the pump, the area by the pump was wet. There was a puddle of gas. I replaced the seal and I had bought a tank (thinking the tank was leaking at the seam where the thread parts are attached to the tank). So, new tank, new seal, the leak is still there. The line coming out of the pump is dry, but the top of the pump is wet). I inspected the pump, can't see any issues with it, but obviously something is up. I'm guessing there is a crack in the pump housing???

I was planing on replacing it with an OEM honda pump. I thought I had read that the pumps have had some cracking issues? Maybe I'm mistaking.

If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears. To me, it feels like its the only thing that I could be.

I would hate to replace a $200 part and have it be something else.

ezone

Ok yes the top of the filter housing can crack, though that's not really a failure of the electric pump itself such as low pressure or inoperative.

Wipe it off nice and dry, then cycle the key or start the engine and you should be able to see gas oozing through fine cracks in the flat round area (the common spot)

Honda makes you buy the entire assembly with the pump and everything, but I've seen aftermarket sources selling just the fuel filter unit by itself if you wish to go that route. (Some assembly required, and some people have issues with getting it to work correctly)

eddie1976

Alright. Thanks. Local dealer wants $380 for the part. Majestic wants 208. So, guess where i'm buying it from

eddie1976

ezone, I checked for codes and got the following P1457 and P0497. Would the fuel pump leak cause these codes or is it a coincidence?

Trying to see if something that would throw these codes would also cause the pump to leak. If the system was getting over pressurized, could it start leaking at the pump?

Thanks

ezone

P1457 is 'EVAP leak in the canister system', should be unrelated to a cracked filter housing and liquid gasoline leak issues.

P0497, low EVAP system purge flow. This probably means the computer attempted to do a leak check, but something in the EVAP and tank system would not allow the tank to hold a vacuum.....as reported by the FTP sensor voltage value during the leak check attempt.

If your main issue is leaking gasoline from the top of the fuel filter housing, I really don't think these codes are directly related to that problem.

The CVS valve rusts away on the side of the canister, that's a real common cause of the P1457.....and rodents eating hoses tubes and wires is another common problem I see in my area (corn and rust belt here).

eddie1976

Thanks. So I will replace the pump and go from there. If the computer did a leak test and it didn't hold vacuum, could the cracked pump cause it to fail this test?

Thanks for the help. I'm starting to hate these old cars.

ezone

It would have to be cracked in a place where it would be open into the inside of the tank, instead of (or in addition to) the leak at the pressurized fuel area.

IMO that's not likely to happen.

eddie1976

Alright, I will bring it somewhere to do the smoke test and see what they say. I don't want to start replacing solenoid valves and have it be just a cracked line somewhere.

Since the tank was replaced recently, I will look over that work and make sure something obvious isn't the issue.

ezone

Isn't your issue about leaking gasoline? Raw fuel on the ground or something?

eddie1976

Yes, raw fuel on the tank, assumed it was leaking from the seam. When I went to replace the tank, noticed the leak was from the fuel pump (not the tank). With the new tank, the pump area is still wet with raw fuel. So, I ordered a new pump and will replace it. Now I'm getting the codes. Codes started after the tank work was done, so might be related to the work I did???

ezone

In that case yes.
If the codes were not present before the tank was replaced it stands to reason new codes will be related to the work done.... something overlooked, not connected, pinched or cut, etc.


The raw gas leak probably isnt the cause of the codes

eddie1976

Update: Check engine light is gone, it has been 200 miles since it went off. Not sure what to make of this. Any thoughts? Waiting for Majestic to ship the fuel pump.

Colin42

Got a scanner? the code might be stored but not active. The computer will throw a code because its not happy about something, sometimes the issue solves itself or the computer threw the code because it hiccuped, then it will turn the check engine light off.

My girlfriends car started really rough the other day (cold outside, and weak battery), I keeping checking the car to see if an evap code is going to come back. There wasn't any evap codes but there was an idle related code that was stored but not active due to the car starting so poorly.

eddie1976

I rad the code with the light off. So, it is def stored. I will let it be a for a while an see what happens.

ezone

Someone left the gas cap loose at some point to cause the code?
If the computer is happy at the moment, leave it be.

Did you actually erase the codes, or just read it and leave it?


^Yeah, what he said^

Put a battery in it?

eddie1976

So, the gas cap was put on correctly. Nothing was done between seeing the CEL and having it disappear. I read the codes, did not erase the codes. I read this paragraph in the owners manual for the OBD2 and decided to leave it alone

CAUTION: Erasing the Diagnostic Trouble Codes allows the Scan
Tool to delete not only the codes from the vehicle’s on-board
computer, but also “Freeze Frame” data and manufacturer
specific enhanced data. Further, the I/M Readiness Monitor Status
for all vehicle Monitors is reset to Not Ready or Not Complete
status. Do not erase the codes before the system has been checked
completely by a technician.

ezone

Looking at a 1457 code, it should take 2 consecutive self-test fails to trip the CEL, it takes 3 consecutive passes to turn the light off (leaving the code in memory)...

But I don't see in my info how long it would take for the computer to erase the code from memory by itself...

so I'd erase the codes either with a scanner or by disconnecting the battery. (I always erase fault codes, but I don't have to worry about emissions testing in my area)

If it sets another fault code it will also set fresh freeze frame data with that code. (if you couldn't get FF data before, it's not doing you any good)

If you don't have to get an emissions test anytime soon, it will run the readiness monitors as you drive around......

BUT some of these EVAP self tests won't even run if the temperature is below freezing.

Your call.

Colin42

I have a brand new one just haven't had an opportunity to throw it in yet.

And sorry for the thread jack but do you have any tips for changing the shift cable on a 99 ezone?

ezone

Don't wait til it's stupid cold out and she gets stranded....and you are nowhere around

My sandwich supply would dry right up if I didn't do everything I can to keep my GF in reliable transportation LOL

Remove console
Set shifter to neutral
remove collar (clip?) with lock pin to separate cable tip from shifter section

under car:
remove cable bolts (2) where it goes into the tunnel just forward of the shifter
remove cable bracket under tunnel
take off the covers on the trans as necessary (varies with trans type) to get to the cable attachments and lever, and disconnect the cable from the trans and unbolt the lever.


Assemble in reverse order bla bla bla you know how.

Adjustment is critical.
If trans shift lever got moved reset trans shift lever to neutral by feel (P, R, N,....that's like two clicks back from park)
Adjustment collar (clip with pin goes through it to assemble to shifter) has two sets of holes so it can be dialed in in quarter turn increments. The holes should align perfectly with trans in neutral and shifter in neutral so pin drops in cleanly..

Colin42

Understood She's not driving it yet, gotta do the shift cable and the fuel lines and then I can get it saftied.

Awesome thank you ezone, many internet beers to you

Sorry again for the thread jack eddie

eddie1976

Thanks ezone. I will delete the codes and keep an eye on it. Temps have been above freezing, so we will see if the codes pop up again.

eddie1976

Just an update to close this out for anyone having similar issues. I deleted the codes, replaced the fuel pump myself and all is well. No fuel leak and no codes since. The original fuel pump had cracks on the top cover. These were hairline cracks that were all over the cover.