So my tb is faulty and I am thinking about replacing the manifold too
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Rep Power: 0 So my tb is faulty and I am thinking about replacing the manifold too
My tb is giving my error codes and my cel is on.
I've been looking around for tbs and I can only find used ones and aftermarket ones but the aftermarkets come with their own manifolds.
So I am thinking about changing my entire manifold with skunk2 intake manifold and the tb.
Is it worth doing that to a d16y7?
Btw, I just changed the clutch so it has a new disc along with a cut flywheel and new exhaust too so I was thinking about just going ahead and upgrading my intake manifold.
I've been looking around for tbs and I can only find used ones and aftermarket ones but the aftermarkets come with their own manifolds.
So I am thinking about changing my entire manifold with skunk2 intake manifold and the tb.
Is it worth doing that to a d16y7?
Btw, I just changed the clutch so it has a new disc along with a cut flywheel and new exhaust too so I was thinking about just going ahead and upgrading my intake manifold.
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#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: So my tb is faulty and I am thinking about replacing the manifold too
P0505 is just an idle RPM error, the computer isn't able to control idle RPM properly. Should be pretty easy to figure out if.....
Gonna be comical if a new manifold and TB doesn't fix the problem.
Gonna be comical if a new manifold and TB doesn't fix the problem.
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#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: So my tb is faulty and I am thinking about replacing the manifold too
Anything BUT the throttle body. Replacing that is not even in the list of possible causes (although some of the parts involved are attached to the throttle body).
There's several troubleshooting steps for the P0505 code in a good service manual, that if followed correctly should lead to a correct conclusion as to the true cause of the fault.
There isn't enough info in your posts to make a wildass guess on my end. All I can guess so far is the computer set the code because the idle RPM is not correct.
Before you spend a bunch of loot on a throttle body, get someone to loan you their good one (diagnostic parts swap) from a car with NO problems, to see if it will even fix your problems.
There's several troubleshooting steps for the P0505 code in a good service manual, that if followed correctly should lead to a correct conclusion as to the true cause of the fault.
There isn't enough info in your posts to make a wildass guess on my end. All I can guess so far is the computer set the code because the idle RPM is not correct.
Before you spend a bunch of loot on a throttle body, get someone to loan you their good one (diagnostic parts swap) from a car with NO problems, to see if it will even fix your problems.
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Anything BUT the throttle body. Replacing that is not even in the list of possible causes (although some of the parts involved are attached to the throttle body).
There's several troubleshooting steps for the P0505 code in a good service manual, that if followed correctly should lead to a correct conclusion as to the true cause of the fault.
There isn't enough info in your posts to make a wildass guess on my end. All I can guess so far is the computer set the code because the idle RPM is not correct.
Before you spend a bunch of loot on a throttle body, get someone to loan you their good one (diagnostic parts swap) from a car with NO problems, to see if it will even fix your problems.
There's several troubleshooting steps for the P0505 code in a good service manual, that if followed correctly should lead to a correct conclusion as to the true cause of the fault.
There isn't enough info in your posts to make a wildass guess on my end. All I can guess so far is the computer set the code because the idle RPM is not correct.
Before you spend a bunch of loot on a throttle body, get someone to loan you their good one (diagnostic parts swap) from a car with NO problems, to see if it will even fix your problems.
-First thing I did was clean the throttle body with some carburator cleaner. -That took a bit of carbon but the light was still on and my rpm needle was still constantly jumping from 1.5 to 2k rpms.
-Then I replaced the IAC valve with another one I found on ebay for cheap. -That got rid of the constant idling jump but the CEL was still on.
-It still idles around the 1 to 1.5 and when that happens I can't drive at low speeds because the car wants to go faster.
-Next thing was take it to the mechanic for the smoke test.
-At first he told me some engine temperature bs which I didn't believe because the temperature needle is at normal ranges.
-Then when the smoke test was done, he told me the throttle body needed to be replaced.
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What kind of information do you need?
-First thing I did was clean the throttle body with some carburator cleaner. -That took a bit of carbon but the light was still on and my rpm needle was still constantly jumping from 1.5 to 2k rpms.
-Then I replaced the IAC valve with another one I found on ebay for cheap. -That got rid of the constant idling jump but the CEL was still on.
-It still idles around the 1 to 1.5 and when that happens I can't drive at low speeds because the car wants to go faster.
-Next thing was take it to the mechanic for the smoke test.
-At first he told me some engine temperature bs which I didn't believe because the temperature needle is at normal ranges.
-Then when the smoke test was done, he told me the throttle body needed to be replaced.
-First thing I did was clean the throttle body with some carburator cleaner. -That took a bit of carbon but the light was still on and my rpm needle was still constantly jumping from 1.5 to 2k rpms.
-Then I replaced the IAC valve with another one I found on ebay for cheap. -That got rid of the constant idling jump but the CEL was still on.
-It still idles around the 1 to 1.5 and when that happens I can't drive at low speeds because the car wants to go faster.
-Next thing was take it to the mechanic for the smoke test.
-At first he told me some engine temperature bs which I didn't believe because the temperature needle is at normal ranges.
-Then when the smoke test was done, he told me the throttle body needed to be replaced.
and from my experience carb cleaner makes things worse for any kind of actuators . the solution is to remove it and soak it in kitchen type degreaser which is water based .
also check resistance.
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just as ezone said unless there is a physical damage to the throttle or manifold then it doesnt need replacing .
and from my experience carb cleaner makes things worse for any kind of actuators . the solution is to remove it and soak it in kitchen type degreaser which is water based .
also check resistance.
and from my experience carb cleaner makes things worse for any kind of actuators . the solution is to remove it and soak it in kitchen type degreaser which is water based .
also check resistance.
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: So my tb is faulty and I am thinking about replacing the manifold too
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no remove the actuators which is not working properly such as the IAC or the AC one check if there is excessive oil getting in the intake manifold .
Kitchen type degreaser is the safest when it come to car electric stuff .it really doesnt eat dry or attract dust particles its water based yes i know water but its safe you just soak the required part then clean it with clean water then blow air.
or if you can buy a small ultrasonic machine off ebay it can come very handy for you.
you can run water based ultrasonic cleaning solution and its the same method to fix water damaged mobile phone and if its good for a mobile phone its should be more than fine for you
As for carb cleaner , normal ones they might cause damage more than help only Ac-delco which is white & foaming is good for any job but again if you use it while manifold is on you cant properly clean .
check what causes the original problem is it a vacuum leak , oil in the manifold , electrical or hairline crack in the manifold then attempt the repair. .
Kitchen type degreaser is the safest when it come to car electric stuff .it really doesnt eat dry or attract dust particles its water based yes i know water but its safe you just soak the required part then clean it with clean water then blow air.
or if you can buy a small ultrasonic machine off ebay it can come very handy for you.
you can run water based ultrasonic cleaning solution and its the same method to fix water damaged mobile phone and if its good for a mobile phone its should be more than fine for you
As for carb cleaner , normal ones they might cause damage more than help only Ac-delco which is white & foaming is good for any job but again if you use it while manifold is on you cant properly clean .
check what causes the original problem is it a vacuum leak , oil in the manifold , electrical or hairline crack in the manifold then attempt the repair. .
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to check the manifold for cracks using a small spray bottle spray some water in the intake manifold from all sides
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So, huge update on the situation.
After trying cleaning it with carburetor cleaner with no luck, then doing the smoke check, they told me the throttle body need to be replaced.
I went to my nearest junkyard but I wasn't able to find a clean throttle body. They had one very dirty with something stock to the walls.
I was looking online but I couldn't find a new OEM throttle body so I went ahead and bought a Skunk2 intake manifold with the throttle body.
I bought the o ring injectors, intake gasket and took it to my mechanic.
The guy couldn't do it. He said it the intake manifold was for an EX. I knew he was wrong because the specs says it is made for D series.
Well, the intake can fit in my Y7 but it needs the IACV from a Y8.
Luckily my mechanic was able to find me a better throttle body and right now the car idles at the correct rpms and cel is off.
Once I pass emissions, I will install that manifold because I definitely want that shiny manifold in my car.
After trying cleaning it with carburetor cleaner with no luck, then doing the smoke check, they told me the throttle body need to be replaced.
I went to my nearest junkyard but I wasn't able to find a clean throttle body. They had one very dirty with something stock to the walls.
I was looking online but I couldn't find a new OEM throttle body so I went ahead and bought a Skunk2 intake manifold with the throttle body.
I bought the o ring injectors, intake gasket and took it to my mechanic.
The guy couldn't do it. He said it the intake manifold was for an EX. I knew he was wrong because the specs says it is made for D series.
Well, the intake can fit in my Y7 but it needs the IACV from a Y8.
Luckily my mechanic was able to find me a better throttle body and right now the car idles at the correct rpms and cel is off.
Once I pass emissions, I will install that manifold because I definitely want that shiny manifold in my car.
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