Hborn93

Need help! Ok so yesterday I changed my fuel pressure regulator and everything went great, car ran better than ever. However, at a stop light I came to a complete stop, light turned green....tried to accelerate and absolutely NOTHING happened. Car didn't die, rpms rose normally but right before I lost ability to go I noticed a surge in my rpms that wasn't caused by me as I didn't have my foot on the gas nor break since I was creeping up to the light. I was pushed to a side street and stopped the engine to see if that's fix the issue. Not at all and I can't run a diagnostic because my ubd port is unwired due to previous owner wiring in an amp and sub and not hooking things back up. I popped the hood and everything was hot enough to burn my skin when I touched my valve cover/a bit of smoking as well. I could push through all my gears with my car on without having to brake to take it out of park like you would normally. No gears pick up at all, absolutely no change in rpms or clunk to signal a gear was caught. If I leave the car off for five minutes I can turn it back on and grab a gear and drive for about a minute before I lose it again....almost like I lose a connection or pressure or something. Car starts fine, shifter cable is connected, tranny fluid is fine, engine oil was just added, had a decent amount of gas. The one thing I did notice that was odd was when I messed with my throttle trigger under my hood it would stay at the idle I released the trigger at and I would have to forcefully push the trigger the opposite way to get the throttle to release. Every couple times of starting the car the idle would rise to 3000rpms and stay there until I forced the throttle trigger down or shut the car off. All my local auto parts store friends say it's something with my tranny like the sealed filter or a hose but after replacing the fuel regulator I manually shut off my check engine light....shortly into driving around to check out how the new part did my light popped back on. Idk if tranny issues will trigger my engine light...that being said I have NO leads on where to even start looking. I bought my civic four months ago and have changed the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, got a tranny flush, oil filter change and now the regulator. I bought it for $2000 and it is modified such as spectre air filter on a modified intake tube, super conductor wires for the spark plugs, 17" low profile tires that are brand new and keyed four pin rims, a special valve cover and a heavy duty battery plus a new inside switch to my engine fan...I'm sure I'm leaving things out. However, I do have a massive oil leak that may be coming from a head...about a quart a week leak. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? I love my car and do NOT wanna junk it or sell it and a used tranny cost more than what i payed for the car. Serious dilemma. Would LOVE feedback!

ezone

What codes does it have now?

What codes did it have before?

Depends. Some transmission problems sure can cause codes, some transmission problems don't cause codes.



Does it make a whine noise when it quits moving?
Sounds like it's time for a trans overhaul or replacement.

How many miles on it?

This should never be necessary. You can't figure out how to make the radiator fan work correctly?


Welcome to car ownership....Nothing lasts forever.
Cars require maintenance and repairs in order to keep rolling down the road.
Older and high mileage cars need even more love.
Expensive repairs are are part of repairs.

If you want cheap, learn to DIY.

Hborn93

I do almost everything by myself and that's what made me post here. I want to see what people think may be wrong so i can go from there before taking it top a shop.

ezone

Oh, you edited your post.
OBD (OBD2) not ubd. LOL

"Unwired" meaning the OBD plug isn't in the right spot and you can't find it, or unwired meaning the wires were chopped off because the PO is an effing idiot?

I'd probably start here. Figure out what helpful troubleshooting information the computer can give you first.
Even if it has nothing to do with the trans it's still useful and necessary info....and better scanners can give loads of useful information beyond simple fault codes.

If this is really a 6th gen car (96-2000) that fan is for the AC condenser and only needs to run while the AC compressor is operating. It does not cool the engine at all.

Assuming the radiator is still stock sized.


If it comes down to being a transmission (internal) problem as suspected, be aware that a used trans is used and could have the same problems yours has now. Used is a crapshoot.

Good luck