Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
11-01-2015
#1
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Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
1997 Civic EX coupe (stock), A/T, 150K
Would a 1/2 tooth jump (if, that's possible) or slightly off mechanical timing cause excessive engine vibrations at idle? If so, would there be any additional symptoms?
Would a 1/2 tooth jump (if, that's possible) or slightly off mechanical timing cause excessive engine vibrations at idle? If so, would there be any additional symptoms?
11-01-2015
#3
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
It's not physically possible to jump HALF of a tooth.
It's all or nothing.
Check ignition timing with a timing light, is it 10 degrees off or more? (DO NOT ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR)
May or may not not set a CEL at one tooth off.
If it's a tooth off or more, it will struggle to idle and might increase vibration as the engine labors. Most people would notice loss of power or drop in gas mileage.
It's all or nothing.
Check ignition timing with a timing light, is it 10 degrees off or more? (DO NOT ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR)
May or may not not set a CEL at one tooth off.
If it's a tooth off or more, it will struggle to idle and might increase vibration as the engine labors. Most people would notice loss of power or drop in gas mileage.
11-01-2015
#4
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
It's not physically possible to jump HALF of a tooth.
It's all or nothing.
Check ignition timing with a timing light, is it 10 degrees off or more? (DO NOT ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR)
May or may not not set a CEL at one tooth off.
If it's a tooth off or more, it will struggle to idle and might increase vibration as the engine labors. Most people would notice loss of power or drop in gas mileage.
It's all or nothing.
Check ignition timing with a timing light, is it 10 degrees off or more? (DO NOT ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR)
May or may not not set a CEL at one tooth off.
If it's a tooth off or more, it will struggle to idle and might increase vibration as the engine labors. Most people would notice loss of power or drop in gas mileage.
11-01-2015
#5
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
(DO NOT ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR)
Once a distributor is correctly set, it NEVER EVER needs to be moved for the rest of its natural lifetime. (unless someone has to take it apart for whatever reason, like replacing the O ring for an oil leak)
Base timing never changes once it is correctly set up.
There are no wear issues to deal with, no points (dwell) to vary timing as they wear, there is no distributor gear drive to wear. This ain't a small block Chebby.
If cam timing jumped, ignition timing will be off by a good 10* or some other huge number. If cam timing is off, the distributor is off by the same amount. Correct the cam timing problem and the distributor will be corrected too.
Unless someone jacked with it already.
If ignition timing is found to be off spec, either you are doing it wrong or you have a cam timing problem. Or someone set up the distributor wrong in the beginning. Or maybe the harmonic balancer slipped, but that's rare.
Don't forget to put a jumper wire in the SCS connector before checking timing. This stabilizes the timing and takes the computer controlled advance out of the picture.
Know which mark(s) you are looking for on the crank pulley ahead of time. There may be several to choose from. You may want to highlight it so you can see it better.
The engine spins backwards, this ain't a small block Chebby..
The distributor has 3 hold-down bolts that would need to be loosened in order to move it.
That means you have to make THREE MISTAKES before you can move it.
HTH
11-01-2015
#6
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Some notes about that comment:
Once a distributor is correctly set, it NEVER EVER needs to be moved for the rest of its natural lifetime. (unless someone has to take it apart for whatever reason, like replacing the O ring for an oil leak)
Base timing never changes once it is correctly set up.
There are no wear issues to deal with, no points (dwell) to vary timing as they wear, there is no distributor gear drive to wear. This ain't a small block Chebby.
If cam timing jumped, ignition timing will be off by a good 10* or some other huge number. If cam timing is off, the distributor is off by the same amount. Correct the cam timing problem and the distributor will be corrected too. Unless someone jacked with it already.
If ignition timing is found to be off spec, either you are doing it wrong or you have a cam timing problem. Or someone set up the distributor wrong in the beginning. Or maybe the harmonic balancer slipped, but that's rare.
Don't forget to put a jumper wire in the SCS connector before checking timing. This stabilizes the timing and takes the computer controlled advance out of the picture.
Know which mark(s) you are looking for on the crank pulley ahead of time. There may be several to choose from. You may want to highlight it so you can see it better. The engine spins backwards, this ain't a small block Chebby.. The distributor has 3 hold-down bolts that would need to be loosened in order to move it.
That means you have to make THREE MISTAKES before you can move it.
HTH
Once a distributor is correctly set, it NEVER EVER needs to be moved for the rest of its natural lifetime. (unless someone has to take it apart for whatever reason, like replacing the O ring for an oil leak)
Base timing never changes once it is correctly set up.
There are no wear issues to deal with, no points (dwell) to vary timing as they wear, there is no distributor gear drive to wear. This ain't a small block Chebby.
If cam timing jumped, ignition timing will be off by a good 10* or some other huge number. If cam timing is off, the distributor is off by the same amount. Correct the cam timing problem and the distributor will be corrected too. Unless someone jacked with it already.
If ignition timing is found to be off spec, either you are doing it wrong or you have a cam timing problem. Or someone set up the distributor wrong in the beginning. Or maybe the harmonic balancer slipped, but that's rare.
Don't forget to put a jumper wire in the SCS connector before checking timing. This stabilizes the timing and takes the computer controlled advance out of the picture.
Know which mark(s) you are looking for on the crank pulley ahead of time. There may be several to choose from. You may want to highlight it so you can see it better. The engine spins backwards, this ain't a small block Chebby.. The distributor has 3 hold-down bolts that would need to be loosened in order to move it.
That means you have to make THREE MISTAKES before you can move it.
HTH
When I did the HG and TB a few months ago I matched the mark notched into the distributor to the one on the block a previous owner or mechanic marked. A week after that rechecked it with base timing with timing light and jumpered SCS connector: ignition timing was spot on.
Last week when I tried with the HF **** light I forgot to jumper it and moved the distributor to set for a slightly higher idle. .. stupid, right?
11-01-2015
#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
11-01-2015
#8
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/tls/5250923824.html
I have a feeling the vibrations are going to lead to motor mount that I just can't pinpoint yet. Idle is pretty smooth in neutral and park,,, rough when braking and not moving.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 11-01-2015 at 12:56 PM.
11-01-2015
#9
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
It's not physically possible to jump HALF of a tooth.
It's all or nothing.
Check ignition timing with a timing light, is it 10 degrees off or more? (DO NOT ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR)
May or may not not set a CEL at one tooth off.
If it's a tooth off or more, it will struggle to idle and might increase vibration as the engine labors. Most people would notice loss of power or drop in gas mileage.
It's all or nothing.
Check ignition timing with a timing light, is it 10 degrees off or more? (DO NOT ADJUST DISTRIBUTOR)
May or may not not set a CEL at one tooth off.
If it's a tooth off or more, it will struggle to idle and might increase vibration as the engine labors. Most people would notice loss of power or drop in gas mileage.
Engine starts up quick and shuts down quick (no delay or pinging).
11-01-2015
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
I keep forgetting you are the one with the motor mount issues.
11-01-2015
#11
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Damn it I didn't check the #7 mount shown in diagram. Would make sense if it turns out that one is bad.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 11-01-2015 at 09:43 PM.
11-01-2015
#12
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
11-01-2015
#13
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Goddamnit I am just burying myself today. I just realized that #7 isn't a mount at the same time you pointed it out...lol
Alright, I have just drank my first beer after getting off work..now my head is clearer.
Well, maybe this will make sense?..plan of action
1) Check and set (if needed) base ignition timing per FSM
2) IF, ignition timing is off by more than 10 degrees check and correct mechanical timing.
3) IF, ignition timing is within spec recheck mounts or bring to mechanic to help isolate. Ezone: How do you isolate a mount in the shop?
4) IF, motor mounts are good:
"maybe the harmonic balancer slipped, but that's rare". Any other area/part such as the transmission or CV axle that could cause increased vibration?
Alright, I have just drank my first beer after getting off work..now my head is clearer.
Well, maybe this will make sense?..plan of action
1) Check and set (if needed) base ignition timing per FSM
2) IF, ignition timing is off by more than 10 degrees check and correct mechanical timing.
3) IF, ignition timing is within spec recheck mounts or bring to mechanic to help isolate. Ezone: How do you isolate a mount in the shop?
4) IF, motor mounts are good:
"maybe the harmonic balancer slipped, but that's rare". Any other area/part such as the transmission or CV axle that could cause increased vibration?
Last edited by Wankenstein; 11-01-2015 at 02:25 PM.
11-01-2015
#14
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
1) Check and set (if needed) base ignition timing per FSM
3) IF, ignition timing is within spec recheck mounts or bring to mechanic to help isolate.
Then look for a problem if it still isn't right.
Ezone: How do you isolate a mount in the shop?
4 cylinder engines vibrate naturally, best you can do is have soft mounts so the the engine can shake and vibes aren't sent through the body.
Sometimes you can SEE a problem.
Sometimes I can put a jack under the powertrain to take weight off the mounts and see if that makes a difference.
Sometimes it's not mounts at all, it may be vibration transmitted from elsewhere, like AC lines or exhaust pipes.
Sometimes it's a SWAG.
And when the mounts in a car already look new and the owner is complaining about engine vibration, I'll suggest return to your installer and let them sort it out because you already paid for them to fix it.
(If you didn't want to pay for factory mounts before, you probably won't buy them now either.)
11-02-2015
#15
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Please delete this..duplicate post.could not delete,
where is delete button?,,lol
where is delete button?,,lol
Last edited by Wankenstein; 11-02-2015 at 03:33 PM.
11-02-2015
#16
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Second mechanic (which is just a minute away from my home) turned out to be an old acquaintance. He checked mounts while I did the other part. He then told me to keep it in drive while braking and adjusted the throttle by hand. He revved it up pretty good (but, below rev limiter) and released it (decelerated) quickly and then re-accelerated which caused a noticeable double jump to the drive-train. He said the transmission mount (#2 in diagram) is bad and typical of the symptoms I described to him. He did not charge a fee for diagnosis.
The three (#3,5,9) that I have replaced this year are limited lifetime warrantied = replace once only. They are functioning fine and still have a one time replacement if they fail so, other than the increased vibration comparatively to OE, it doesn't make sense (economically) to replace them at this point.
Four out of the five mounts are solid rubber for both OE and aftermarket. The OE driver's side upper engine mount (#5) is hydraulic (fluid filled) and aftermarket is solid rubber. Other than the #5 mount being hydraulic what are the differences between OE and aftermarket for the other four mounts?
Last edited by Wankenstein; 11-02-2015 at 03:23 PM.
11-02-2015
#17
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
The transmission mount is not one of the three I have replaced within this year. So, I plan to replace that one and the passenger side lower mount (#8 in diagram) with those on this list:
Earlier linked diagram: 2, 3, and 5 are the only mounts that you should be concerned with. If #2 is bad now, change it and see how it goes.
8 and 9 have nothing to do with holding up the drivetrain or vibrations (unless your new one is vastly different from the flimsy original design). You can throw them away and you'd never know any different......except maybe unless you crash.
what are the differences between OE and aftermarket for the other
Appearances aren't everything, AM parts can look exactly the same as factory but be vastly different. The hardness of the rubber(?) compound and/or gaps to allow movement can make a helluva difference.
Maybe even making an all-rubber mount instead of a hydraulic mount....they will look the same and sell to the value shopper.
11-02-2015
#18
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Yes.. still flimsy.
I won't buy #8 then. Looks to be in good shape anyway.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-l...ine-mount.html
Biggest difference I ever get to see is usually the vibration complaints after someone installs aftermarkets.
Appearances aren't everything, AM parts can look exactly the same as factory but be vastly different. The hardness of the rubber(?) compound and/or gaps to allow movement can make a helluva difference.
Maybe even making an all-rubber mount instead of a hydraulic mount....they will look the same and sell to the value shopper.
Appearances aren't everything, AM parts can look exactly the same as factory but be vastly different. The hardness of the rubber(?) compound and/or gaps to allow movement can make a helluva difference.
Maybe even making an all-rubber mount instead of a hydraulic mount....they will look the same and sell to the value shopper.
I think in the case of motor mounts (only) most people's, including myself, first choice for quality and longevity would be OE/OEM. However, it's usually a matter of price that people (myself included) end up settling for aftermarket...which in the long run is probably as much or more expensive depending on length of ownership because they will need to be replaced more often.
Last edited by Wankenstein; 11-02-2015 at 07:57 PM.
11-02-2015
#19
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
The only logical explanation I have ever heard is they help guide the drivetrain down, out of the engine compartment and under the passenger compartment in the event of certain types of front end collisions....instead of shoving it through the firewall to say "hello" and snuggle with your kneecaps.
If you've ever hung around a body shop you can sometimes see how this has happened in a crash. It's actually really amazing to see how they crash and fold up, you can see crumple zones and how they design cars to protect the passengers when crashed.
It sure isn't doing anything to control vibration or hold up the engine or trans. Not with 2" of slop in it.
I know it's not always the case, but sometimes a factory part can be a lot cheaper than aftermarket too. (Not so much with Hondas parts prices, but I see it a lot with the Big3.)
People are so used to factory prices being high that they don't bother to check and compare at all.
Like the poster earlier today saying he gave $60 for brake pads from a parts store and now has a noise issue. Factory pads looked like only $63 at full retail.... Less if you internet (or get a discount because you're in the auto biz). We have almost zero complaints about brake noise using factory pads.
On that note....
You should have seen when I did some maintenance work on my dads truck a couple weeks ago. Dad picked up his own parts and brought them out to work.
DangerZone was 100% fail on ATF (needed Dexron6), a trans filter kit (wrong-o) and a set of spark plugs (Botch). The GM dealer got everything right, it was in stock, and with my discount it was cheaper than the parts store. And it all fits right on the first try, there's no worry about quality, they will last as long as original, and I can sleep at night.
If you've ever hung around a body shop you can sometimes see how this has happened in a crash. It's actually really amazing to see how they crash and fold up, you can see crumple zones and how they design cars to protect the passengers when crashed.
Yes.. still flimsy.
However, it's usually a matter of price that people (myself included) end up settling for aftermarket...which in the long run is probably as much or more expensive depending on length of ownership because they will need to be replaced more often.
People are so used to factory prices being high that they don't bother to check and compare at all.
Like the poster earlier today saying he gave $60 for brake pads from a parts store and now has a noise issue. Factory pads looked like only $63 at full retail.... Less if you internet (or get a discount because you're in the auto biz). We have almost zero complaints about brake noise using factory pads.
On that note....
You should have seen when I did some maintenance work on my dads truck a couple weeks ago. Dad picked up his own parts and brought them out to work.
DangerZone was 100% fail on ATF (needed Dexron6), a trans filter kit (wrong-o) and a set of spark plugs (Botch). The GM dealer got everything right, it was in stock, and with my discount it was cheaper than the parts store. And it all fits right on the first try, there's no worry about quality, they will last as long as original, and I can sleep at night.
11-03-2015
#20
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
The only logical explanation I have ever heard is they help guide the drivetrain down, out of the engine compartment and under the passenger compartment in the event of certain types of front end collisions....instead of shoving it through the firewall to say "hello" and snuggle with your kneecaps.
I know it's not always the case, but sometimes a factory part can be a lot cheaper than aftermarket too. (Not so much with Hondas parts prices, but I see it a lot with the Big3.) People are so used to factory prices being high that they don't bother to check and compare at all.
Lol.. nice. Kenny Loggins would be proud.
Front lower mount vid:
11-04-2015
#21
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Now car is on jack stands sides and floor jack in front (sub-frame) with jack/wood support under transmission. Wheels still on, E-brake engaged, helper put car into gear and I checked mounts. Transmission mount is good but, rear (firewall side) engine mount is shot..lot's of movement. That was an Anchor brand and the hardest mount to remove. Now, the depression sets in..lol. Moral of story.. buy OE/OEM replacements per Ezone's suggestion.
I have one limited lifetime warranty coming to me..so, I'll use that up and a year or less later from now I will get to do this all over again... BLOW ME ANCHOR!!
Update 1 hour later: Damn it!.. I pulled the rear engine mount out and it's in new condition still..no rips or tears. I APOLOGIZE ANCHOR!
I have one limited lifetime warranty coming to me..so, I'll use that up and a year or less later from now I will get to do this all over again... BLOW ME ANCHOR!!
Update 1 hour later: Damn it!.. I pulled the rear engine mount out and it's in new condition still..no rips or tears. I APOLOGIZE ANCHOR!
Last edited by Wankenstein; 11-04-2015 at 12:28 PM.
11-04-2015
#22
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
lot's of movement.
Update 1 hour later: Damn it!.. I pulled the rear engine mount out and it's in new condition still..no rips or tears. I APOLOGIZE ANCHOR!
Update 1 hour later: Damn it!.. I pulled the rear engine mount out and it's in new condition still..no rips or tears. I APOLOGIZE ANCHOR!
11-04-2015
#23
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
When I checked my car's mounts earlier (on stands and in gear) today the rear engine mount had so much movement it looked like an obvious failure.
The front passenger side lower mount has a partial tear. I broke the top part of the oil dipstick the other day and I made a trip to LKQ junkyard this afternoon to pick one and possibly a decent mount. I found a dipstick, front lower ps mount and what looks to be an OE or OEM hydraulic driver's side top engine mount, all in seemingly good condition. I picked them from a '96 EX 4-door with A/T and hope they will work for mine ('97 EX coupe A/T). I know picking mounts from a salvage yard is a crap shoot but, they were only $11 each and returnable if they don't fit or damaged.
Car is still on jacks and after I put on the the two salvage mounts I will "neutralize and sequence" all five mounts. If, that doesn't solve the issue I will turn my attention to the right front CV axle (leaking boot). I did full lock left and right circles and there's no clicking or grinding.Any other CV axle tests I can do?
I have read various threads in which posters fixed the original issue my car has by replacing a CV axle. It's almost as much work to properly replace the boot as it is to replace the whole axle. Boot replacement (only) is obvioulsy cheaper though.
11-04-2015
#24
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
hydraulic driver's side top engine mount,'96 EX 4-door with A/T and hope they will work for mine ('97 EX coupe A/T).
I have read various threads in which posters fixed the original issue my car has by replacing a CV axle. It's almost as much work to properly replace the boot as it is to replace the whole axle. Boot replacement (only) is obvioulsy cheaper though.
An OE boot is great quality and normally it's very complete. Comes with grease.
Aftermarket boots have been a crapshoot for me (I cringe when they want me to install one), and cheap axles are cheap. Cheap axle prices will make you question your intelligence for buying a boot and spending 4x more time getting covered in grease. Changing out JUST an axle can be pretty quick IMO.
..... A boot sometimes can be a helluva lot of work to replace, and if you get aftermarket there's almost always a shortage of stuff to get the job done or you don't have the right tool to tighten the dang clamp or band.....Some axle designs make you take apart the inner joint in order to put the boot on the outer joint and aftermarket won't give you enough clamps to get it done.
Think about the axle seal (on the trans) while it's out.
11-05-2015
#25
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Thanks Ezone.
Today I installed the salvaged mounts, neutralize all, and torqued in sequence per the link you previously posted. I verified mechanical timing again just to be sure. The white mark on the crank pulley lines up spot on with the timing cover marks and 1st piston at TDC. Cam gear's two marks line up horizontally with top cylinder head, "UP" mark at noon.
Unfortunately, the passenger side CV boot has big tear at the bottom. My suspicion is that most of the grease has leaked out and there may an issue with the outer CV gears that is causing my original problem of vibration while in gear + brakes engaged. I think it's also the cause for delays and front to back shifting motion during deceleration to acceleration. Some intermittent faint clunking going on from park to reverse.
Today I installed the salvaged mounts, neutralize all, and torqued in sequence per the link you previously posted. I verified mechanical timing again just to be sure. The white mark on the crank pulley lines up spot on with the timing cover marks and 1st piston at TDC. Cam gear's two marks line up horizontally with top cylinder head, "UP" mark at noon.
Unfortunately, the passenger side CV boot has big tear at the bottom. My suspicion is that most of the grease has leaked out and there may an issue with the outer CV gears that is causing my original problem of vibration while in gear + brakes engaged. I think it's also the cause for delays and front to back shifting motion during deceleration to acceleration. Some intermittent faint clunking going on from park to reverse.
11-05-2015
#26
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Unfortunately, the passenger side CV boot has big tear at the bottom. My suspicion is that most of the grease has leaked out and there may an issue with the outer CV gears that is causing my original problem of vibration while in gear + brakes engaged. I think it's also the cause for delays and front to back shifting motion during deceleration to acceleration. Some intermittent faint clunking going on from park to reverse.
And there's no gears inside one.
Outer joint diagram, typical:
HTH
11-05-2015
#27
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
That's a cool diagram.
I'll probably end up replacing it with a new aftermarket. I feel I'll be selling this car within the next six months.
I've been regentrifying this car like CtPa town:
I'll probably end up replacing it with a new aftermarket. I feel I'll be selling this car within the next six months.
I've been regentrifying this car like CtPa town:
Last edited by Wankenstein; 11-05-2015 at 10:06 PM.
11-06-2015
#28
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
http://www.raxles.com/axleparts.aspx
"A "clunking" sound on deceleration or acceleration may be caused by a worn inner joint. This sympton may also indicate a problem with the transaxle.
Vibration or shudder during acceleration may indicate a problem with the inner joint or a bent shaft."
"A "clunking" sound on deceleration or acceleration may be caused by a worn inner joint. This sympton may also indicate a problem with the transaxle.
Vibration or shudder during acceleration may indicate a problem with the inner joint or a bent shaft."
11-06-2015
#29
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
http://www.raxles.com/axleparts.aspx
"A "clunking" sound on deceleration or acceleration may be caused by a worn inner joint. This sympton may also indicate a problem with the transaxle.
Vibration or shudder during acceleration may indicate a problem with the inner joint or a bent shaft."
"A "clunking" sound on deceleration or acceleration may be caused by a worn inner joint. This sympton may also indicate a problem with the transaxle.
Vibration or shudder during acceleration may indicate a problem with the inner joint or a bent shaft."
***erased rambling commentary***
Nevermind.
A worn inner CV joint can do weird things, frequently shows up as a a side-to-side shake under acceleration and it may come and go as the joint plunges and stops in a different location........
but I thought you were concerned with the open boot on the outer joint.
Go ahead and change out the axle, let us know if it fixed all the problems?
11-06-2015
#30
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Re: Mechanical Timing Slighlty Off (1/2 tooth) Symptoms
Thanks for editing yourself.. I bet it wasn't going to words of encouragement Lol.
We were focused on the outer joint because, that's where the tear is. I should have been more specific towards the inner joint symptoms.
This is a good read covering CV axles (for myself and other novices/ future inquirers): http://autoresource.internetautoguid...-bad-1356.html
Last edited by Wankenstein; 11-06-2015 at 11:59 AM. Reason: redo
