jtdunn4life

My 2000 Civic DX developed the classic exhaust manifold crack. Replaced the O2 sensor and put Quiksteel (against recommendations). After about 40 miles of good running CEL returned and engine running rough idle again. I'm guessing the Quiksteel failed on me and fouled up my new O2 sensor.

I plan to replace the exhaust manifold and CC with a Dorman kit.

Am I missing anything or am I on the right track???? Would like some feedback before I commit to it. Thanks!

ezone

That's an awful expensive guess.
What's the code?


What sensor did you replace? What brand?

jtdunn4life

indeed... is code 9 cylinder sensor this time. Feeling down now.... sparks plugs? haven't changed them in a while.

ezone

See, gotta use logic. Can't guess at crap.


Code 9 can be either P1381 or P1382, CYP sensor intermittent interruption or no signal.
Distributor sensors, each of the 3 sensors should measure 350-700 ohms resistance. Follow a good service manual for diagnosis.

I don't have to say it myself anymore! LOL

That won't cause the code, but change them if it's due for them.

jtdunn4life

Thanks for the direction... I will refrain from crap guessing. Will run the test probably this weekend... Came across this video... Is this the idea?

ezone

Yeah that looks like what the video is doing, checking resistance of the 3 pickups in the distributor.

jtdunn4life

Got 363, 362 and 517. Found no short to ground. I need to pull the cap and see if the rotor is ok... 133k miles and don't think it's ever been touched. I'll reset ECU and see if it comes back.

ezone

I bet that one reading 517 goes off the charts when it gets all warmed up.

jtdunn4life

Let car idle for about 10 min then held the pedal for 1-2min. Turned car off and retested distributor sensor resistance. Got 408,403,416.

It could still be distributor but am suspicious of alternator and considered this test I found of clear codes, unplug 4 pin connector from alternator and drive. If no CEL returns re-plug 4 pin connector and drive. If CEL returns then most likely alternator. That's the idea right?

Also could take it by az to have the test it but if they only test at the battery I could get a faulty reading, no?

Thanks

ezone

2 readings came up but the suspicious one came down? That's still suspicious IMO.


Had you erased the codes? Did it reset any codes while you were doing this?

If you had freeze frame data then you could see what the coolant temperature was when the code set, that would tell you when to test the resistances (I was just guessing at it being hot).


If the distributor code was setting very consistently then the alternator check might lead to a valid conclusion.....if you can prove anything before you run the battery down (alternator will not be able to produce electricity while it is unplugged).

Setting the code consistently in this case would mean you clear (erase) the distributor code, and it resets either immediately or during a short trip test drive. You also need to be able to read and clear codes on your own so you know A) what the code is, and B) how quickly it returns after clearing.

The ohm testing is good for catching a problem WHILE the problem is present. If the problem isn't there at the time you test, it's damn hard to catch it.

Your readings are still suspicious to me, all 3 sensor values were usually pretty close to each other when I tested good ones in the past. Your values stated earlier had the one reading significantly higher than the other two.

Pretty sure all they would be able to tell is if the alternator is charging or not. Not sure about anything else. Give it a shot and see.

While you are there, have them check codes and see if they can get you the freeze frame data. (I expect a blank stare from the counter help when you ask for FF data LOL)

jtdunn4life

Tested again cold this morning and oddities continue... got 356,356 and zero... no continuity on the 3rd. It's the one on the far right that's giving me no reading. The one on the far left is giving 968 consistently... even with engine warm. The 2 in the middle are the one's with 356. Took a picture but can't figure out how to upload it

ezone

I think you found the problem.


The one on the far left is giving 968 consistently... even with engine warm. The 2 in the middle are the one's with 356.

You have 3 pickup coils to test, that's 3 pairs of wires in the plug.
There are more items inside the distributor though. (Coil, igniter)
Use a pic hosting site such as tinypic or imigur and upload your pics there. Then post the links to the pics here.


HTH

jtdunn4life

Tested yet again today. Got 454 this afternoon on the questionable one. This evening I let it idle for 10 min then went around the neighborhood to make sure it was warm. Test again and zero continuity.

From what I hear the entire distributor has to be replaced... cannot replace the sensor only. Is that true?

I've read lots of posts stating aftermarket distributors for Honda are not very reliable. Are they ALL really that bad? OEM is like $400. Not sure I can do that. If there is a decent aftermarket out there somebody please let me know!

ezone

Pretty much true. Most people cannot buy the individual sensor components inside the distributor.....unless you want to purchase something like 10,000 at a time.



Just the bad ones.


I have heard many shops complain about having to do things like....replace 4 or more distributors before they get one that will even get the car to start.

You want cheap? You get what you pay for.
You want reliable? You gotta pay for it.


In my work, I can't afford the cheap ones.
If a consumer wants cheap they can go be pissed off at some other shop when it fails way too early.

jtdunn4life

lots of used OEM distributors on ebay... ever had experience with a used one?

ezone

The answer to your question: How long did yours last?

jtdunn4life

could be a loose wire inside the dist... i get a reading and then no reading at all... Will I damage the existing dist if I open it up and start digging around?

ezone

It's usually a pickup coil winding going open circuit under certain temperature conditions.

Picture wire as thin as a hair wrapped 10,000 times around a teensy spool, much like a spool or bobbin of thread.
There's a teensy break in the middle of the stack of windings, and it's close enough to touch and make contact with itself to conduct electricity at least part of the time.






Depends.

It already needs one, so......

jtdunn4life

Bought basic scanner on amazon and waited for CEL to return. After 60miles came on. Pulled code and P0132 this time. Oxygen Sensor again. I put in freeze frame and live data below just in case anyone is willing to review it and offer a suggestion.

To answer your original question, I got cheapo replacement O2 sensor on ebay. If crack in exhaust manifold is still there will I keep getting this code regardless the brand O2 sensor I put in?

What brand O2 sensors seem to work best?

Still haven't forgotten about the CYP DTC but haven't seen it again yet so not sure how to proceed with that.

Thanks!

Freeze Frame
P0132
Fuelsys1 cl
Fuelsys2 n/a
Load% 80.8
Ect 187
Shrtft1 -29.7%
Lonhft1 6.3%
Map 24.2
Rpm 2838
Vss 69
Iat f. 88
Tp% 28.2

Live data
Dtc_cnt 1
Fuelsys1 OL
fuelsys2 n/a
Load_% 0.0
Ect(f) 104
Shrtft1 (%) 0.0
Longft1 6.3
Map (inHg) 29.5
Rpm 0
Vss 0
Sparkadv(*) 0
Lat (f) 99
Tp(%) 9.8
O2sloc b1s12--b2s-----
O2b1s1 (v) 1.275
Shrtftb1s1(%) 0.0
O2b1s2 (v) 1.275
Shrtftb1s2 (%) 0.0
Obdsup obdii

ezone

P0132=High voltage B1S1 (primary/front sensor)

STFT is sky high, reacting (I assume) to high O2 sensor (B1S1) voltage input.
Highway speed, bla bla bla.

Ok.

It's not running. Somewhat cold engine...

What's the O2 sensors readings while the engine is running? Both should be under 1v once they get hot and become active. They should stay under 1v from that point on.
(Fuelsys1 changes to "CL" when the sensors become active)


This part is real simple with these cars. They LIKE what they were built with.

It was built with either NTK or DENSO sensors.

The ECM was designed to be used with a particular type of O2 sensor, and most aftermarket sensors just don't make it happy.


I can't tell you what brand the factory put in it. My GUESS is probably NTK.
I come up with this from their website
Oxygen Sensor
Call your local parts stores, see who has it.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/