Spazzyt5

OK I have 97 civic lx 4 door sedan. I know very little about civics. This car is a daily driver to and from work, I don't have plans of engine swapping or upgrading for more power, I put all that time in money into my 97 ford diesel. Beside that I am pretty mechanical though, I need some help with a few engine codes. I went today to get a NC inspection and found out my CEL wasn't coming on (when you turn the key to the on position), so quick search of this forum I found it could be the bulb. I got home and pulled out the instrument cluster and the bulb was burnt, put one from another spot in there to test. Doing this I now find that my CEL is on, so I had advance auto run the codes and it came back with 8 HOLY CRAP!!!!!
P0122
P0113
P1509
P0135
P0141
P0301
P0303
P1300

I have searched and I know what they all mean. My question is where do I start? And do any of these codes deal with each other, meaning if I fix one thing it will fix a few codes.

The only thing I have done to the car since I bought was drop the tranny put in a new clutch, throw out bearing. New axels and rotors and brakes. I also a fluciating idle, I have removed the IACV and clean with no help.

Again I and a NOOB and if you all need more info let me know. Thanks for the help.

ezone

P0122 TPS
P0113 IAT
P1509 IAC circuit
P0135 Primary O2 sensor heater circuit
P0141 secondary O2 sensor heater circuit
P0301 Misfire cylinder #1
P0303 " " #3
P1300 Random misfire

What about Freeze Frame data? This can be important info. Next time get that written down before erasing codes.


If it runs bad- misfires--due to crappy ignition parts or whatever (valve adjustment?), fix that immediately.

First 3 codes could be set by unplugging those sensors with the key on. Do you know that to be true?

SO:
Clear codes, start over.
See what comes back immediately without starting the engine. Chase these first.

Then fire it up, let it run and see if the O2 sensor codes come back in 10 seconds.

Spazzyt5

I did not get freeze frame data I was more irritated that I had 8 codes so I just wrote down the number. I will have to take the car back to get it rescanned sometime.

the only thing I notice as far as a misfire is when accelerating I can feel it just has no power then I can feel like it just kicks in and drives good, I never feel any loss of power while just driving 60 on the highway (only on acceleration from a stop). Could this be timing related? Is a valve adjustment easy? any special tools?

I went out and pulled the 7.5 fuse in the under hood fuse box and then turned the car to the on position and the CEL stayed off. Once I started about 10 secs later light came back on. Should I start with a timing adjustment and replace BOTH 02 sensors.

(First 3 codes could be set by unplugging those sensors with the key on. Do you know that to be true)----what do you mean by this.

ezone

FF data is only stored for ONE of the codes. If you have a bunch of codes, data may not be stored for the one I need more info on.
Ok, leave this be for now. I assume you can't tell if it has a misfire or if the feeling is caused by something else entirely different.


No.
Not for a rookie.
Barely.
Probably DIYs somewhere around here though.

Set in 5 seconds should be the O2 heater codes.NO
Codes are not defined as "throw needless parts at the car".
Prove there is a problem with the sensors before wasting hard earned money on them.

A blown fuse will set the same codes, so could other things. Got a charge warning light on too?

At that age, the sensors very well COULD be bad. Yes, both of them. (Most people that care would have fixed the first one long before the second one went bad though.)
Someone could have installed incompatible cheapo sensors from DangerZone too.

Got a proper service manual for this car?

What? Did you, or someone else, unplug any of those 3 sensors while the key was on? That would set codes with perfectly good parts, due to a human.

Spazzyt5

No one unplugged any of the sensor while the car was running. I have a Hanes manual for it, don't know if that is a good one or not they guy I bought it from had it in the car. and I have the owners manuals too. I would of been trouble shooting problems with the car the second I knew it had a problem but like I said before I just found out the bulb was burnt so didn't even know I had these problems. What would be the first thing I should do to start eliminating some of the codes? I am pretty good with cars and I am able to learn easy, so any help will help. Thanks.

ezone

I have no idea about Haynes, I have factory info and Alldata at my disposal.

IF I can tell there is a misfire that is ignition related, that gets top priority. I can't explain how I can tell these things, it's all based on experience.

Next is codes, starting with what code(s) came back first.
There are things I can do with a scanner that clue me in towards other issues too, but you probably don't have that luxury. I depend heavily on that at work.


O2 heater codes? What does your manual say about diagnosing these codes?

I'd just guess here: Probably one of the first steps is check resistance of the heater circuits in the sensors themselves. I'd guess 10-40 ohms resistance for the specs. Wiring diagrams will show which 2 wires operate the heaters.

This is what the computer had to see in order to set the P0135 code:
Malfunction Threshold
The current is 0.2 A or less or 1.8 A or more for at least 5 seconds when the heater is on.



What engine and trans does this car have?
D16--what?
Manual or automatic?

TreeFortRichard

how old are the spark plug wires, and did someone change them or put them in the wrong order? I had that misfire on my 1999 and one of the wires was bad so essentially it was throwing gas to a no-firing cylinder...major power loss.. I got 4 new wires and plugs and it cleared up a bunch of codes...Sending unburned gas out the tail might also be triggering sensors...