Quick CV Q,
#1
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I did try to research this i may have overlooked the post if its there im sorry just link it then please.
I did my research on doing my brothers 96' civic CV joint which is pretty bad sounding. Im going to just buy the whole assembly pop old one out and put new one in. Im not one to know much about honda i work on big disel trucks all day not hondas. Would anyone reccomend changing both cv assemblies out at the same time to get both their life expectancies in sync or would it just be best to do the one side (drivers in this case) and then go get it re aligned.
Thank you for your time
I did my research on doing my brothers 96' civic CV joint which is pretty bad sounding. Im going to just buy the whole assembly pop old one out and put new one in. Im not one to know much about honda i work on big disel trucks all day not hondas. Would anyone reccomend changing both cv assemblies out at the same time to get both their life expectancies in sync or would it just be best to do the one side (drivers in this case) and then go get it re aligned.
Thank you for your time
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Quick CV Q,
The noisy one probably had the boot split open and throw the grease out.
Look closely at the other axle. If its boots (usually the outer) haven't already split open, look for deep weather cracks in the folds of the boot. The deep cracks will open up soon.
IOW, if it hasn't already been replaced, you may as well either replace it (or just reboot it?) before it loses the grease and gets noisy. Once it gets noisy, it is considered "shot".
HTH
Look closely at the other axle. If its boots (usually the outer) haven't already split open, look for deep weather cracks in the folds of the boot. The deep cracks will open up soon.
IOW, if it hasn't already been replaced, you may as well either replace it (or just reboot it?) before it loses the grease and gets noisy. Once it gets noisy, it is considered "shot".
HTH
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So i ran into another problem. Today i replaced my brothers driver side CV joint, boot cracked and has been cracked. Passanger is same way so im going to change it out next weekend for him.
Although replacing the CV joint the loud clicking is still there. while changing the cv joint i noticed a similar boot ripped on both sides, i belive its the boots that go on to the power steering rack. Both sides and the ball looks really dry and spraying a bit of penatrating grease helped for a moment with the sound.
So ultimately my question is could this be the cause of the loud clicking sound? Also could i just grease it up and re boot it? The whole rack from honda cost about $450 but im sure i could find it cheaper.
Any input on this situation is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Although replacing the CV joint the loud clicking is still there. while changing the cv joint i noticed a similar boot ripped on both sides, i belive its the boots that go on to the power steering rack. Both sides and the ball looks really dry and spraying a bit of penatrating grease helped for a moment with the sound.
So ultimately my question is could this be the cause of the loud clicking sound? Also could i just grease it up and re boot it? The whole rack from honda cost about $450 but im sure i could find it cheaper.
Any input on this situation is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Quick CV Q,
Depends on what the sound is. Got video?
I have received plenty of noisy NEW and rebuilt axles in the past, even from the dealer. Most of the outer CV noises got quiet after driving in several tight circles (distribute the grease, I guess). Some didn't and got replaced yet again.
You gotta know what the source of the noise is though.
As far as the rack and ball joints, you can shake down the suspension for free play that would lead you to bad tie rods/ends/ball joints and repair accordingly. If none are bad yet, then I would certainly put fresh boots on them along with fresh good grease.
I have received plenty of noisy NEW and rebuilt axles in the past, even from the dealer. Most of the outer CV noises got quiet after driving in several tight circles (distribute the grease, I guess). Some didn't and got replaced yet again.
You gotta know what the source of the noise is though.
As far as the rack and ball joints, you can shake down the suspension for free play that would lead you to bad tie rods/ends/ball joints and repair accordingly. If none are bad yet, then I would certainly put fresh boots on them along with fresh good grease.
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I dont have any video but the sound is litterally a CLICK CLICK CLICK when turning, after replacing the cv joint it still does it, although when i turn slowly as if i didnt have power steering it doesnt click.
How do i determine bad tie rods ect.
How do i determine bad tie rods ect.
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Quick CV Q,
I dont have any video but the sound is litterally a CLICK CLICK CLICK when turning
Each outer joint has up to 6 ***** inside (similar to a big ball bearing), each individual ball can make a pop noise as the wheel makes one revolution, and they usually only make noise under a load (acceleration).
Like I said, I have had MANY noisy right out of the box.
Check youtube for how-tos on the joints.
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