Anthony_76

I swapped in a factory 5-Speed tachometer gauge cluster in my DX 5-Speed (I think it's good to have a tach with a 5-Speed)
Since my car is low miles, 91K, I kept my speedometer and changed it to mine so it reads the correct mileage.
My check engine light never came on before.
Everything in the new cluster works fine, but the check engine light comes when you turn the key on, then goes off for a minute then comes right back on and never turns off.
I took the negative battery terminal off my battery multiple times, pulled the Backup fuse from the engine fuse box near my battery. (Which is supposed to be a 7.5, which had a 20 in it, I put in a 15, which is the smallest I have.
And it still comes on.
I don't like annoying dash lights coming on, especially when they never came on before.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Stock 99

Find a OBD II reader and see if it's throwing a code. Your car can throw a code (check engine light) for something as simple as a loose gas cap.

I did that exact same swap in my DX and there's nothing to really go wrong.

Anthony_76

Here is a video if it helps.
[autostream]http://autostream.com/ibcivicforums/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=1360& transactionid=1356048218-74100693&posted_by=_www.civicforums.com&youtube_vi deo_id=_fadHePDJPI[/autostream]
I am going to have a HELL of a time getting my hands on a OBD II reader...
I wish there was someone on this site who was local to me in Southern Cali and could let me check it out.

ezone

Howzat?

I thought every DangerZone on the freekin' planet (and all other parts stores that are open on Sunday) have them available for people to use...

Anthony_76

Yeah in every single state except Commiefornia.
It is apparently against the law here. I called every store within 10 miles of me, they all said the same thing.

Anthony_76

It's illegal in CA for Autozone or any other parts store to do such things such as let people use readers due to smog laws is what I was told.
I was looking for an O'Reilly Auto Parts to get some Power Steering Fluid, which apparently was no longer there. However as luck would have it, in its place was "California Speed Shop Auto Repair" I parked and walked in and told him my check engine light came on and if he could check it with a OBD II Reader? He said, sure not a problem.
He plugged it in and said "the heat sensor behind the catalytic converter is out"
I asked him how big of a job it was, he said not to bad, and said it would be a couple hundred bucks to fix it. After telling him thank you and that was highway robbery I left and found a O'Reilly Auto Parts store to get my Power Steering Fluid. While in there I mentioned it to one of the kids working there. Unfortunately I did not get the code, and I can barely remember how to spell my name, so I can't remember it. He told me there was no such thing, as a heat sensor behind the catalytic converter and that the guy probably meant the heat sensor behind the O2 sensor. He told me there is two of them, one before the O2 sensor and one after it. I asked him how hard that was to change out, he said not hard, you don't even have to drop the exhaust. I've had bad experiences with catalytic converters and O2 sensors on vehicles I have worked on. Can someone tell me who is correct? The part only cost $60. Is this something I NEED to replace SOON? Apparently it doesn't affect engine performance because this car, although not a VTEC, REALLY moves. (It even sounds like one, see video above)
Would I gain any substantial power if I just took the whole damn catalytic converter crap out completely? (Obviously I would not pass strict communist CA smog laws, so the car would have to be smogged illegally, but is it worth it?)
Everything else I own is so old it doesn't have a catalytic converter so this is the first vehicle I have owned with one, I do understand how they work, and I always thought they severally bog down your engine as there is more back-pressure from the exhaust exiting. Less resistance = more power, right?

ezone

OK First of all, all I know is you have some sort of DX 5-speed. I have no clue what year the car is (OBD2=96 or newer?), and I can only guess it is a Civic since you are in a Civic forum.

Got more handy details?

I could post pics and links from a real parts catalog that way.



You can buy an OBD2 code reader pretty dang cheap these days.


Specific code numbers would be a big help.
Anything else is only guessing.


Honda does not use a "heat sensor".
Honda uses Oxygen Sensors (and variations thereof).
Cheapo sensors are cheap for a reason.
Please do NOT use Bosch sensors.

Factory used DENSO or NTK brand sensors.
You can probably still find the original name stamped into the side of the original sensor. Use that brand as long as it is DENSO or NTK.

4 cylinder car with OBD2 will have 2 Oxygen sensors.
One "pre cat" (primary) and another either in the center of, or after the cat (secondary).

These O2 sensors are 7/8" wrench size to remove and install. IDK if a plain combination wrench will actually fit yours, some need a slotted socket or a crowsfoot.
When is your emissions test due?

It might, you can't tell with a "seat of the pants dyno".
Performance means more than just speed.
Absolutely not, unless there was a huge problem to begin with.

Cats (when new) are designed to be able to flow substantially more CFM than the engine can produce at Redline + WOT.....
If you think there is a problem, you could get a backpressure gauge and check.
Or use a vacuum gauge. Any good smog tech should be able to show how to use engine vacuum to check for exhaust restriction.

The only time cats CAUSE a "performance" problem (loss of power) is when they are damaged or clogged. Even then, the damage is usually caused by an underlying engine performance problem that SHOULD have been noticed and corrected long before cat damage occurred.

Example: Misfires can cause cat damage in an extremely short time. A matter of only minutes, if the problem is severe enough.
Unburned gas going into a cat can make it overheat. Glowing cat is bad news.
The damage can vary from a simple failure code, to cracking and breaking the substrate, to melting the substrate, to literally emptying the shell. All the pieces have to go somewhere if they come out of the shell. The mufflers are next in line to catch the debris..
(I followed one of my own cars that was misfiring on 2 of its 4 cylinders. The cat was glowing bright yellow in less than one mile. Looked like neon lights were under the car. Cat was hollow after that event.)

Another thing FYI: A cat code in the computer (P0420) has nothing to do with restriction or flow. That code is only related to efficiency and O2 storage capacity.

HTH

Anthony_76

Does anybody read signatures around here? It's a '96 DX 5speed 1.6 MFI non VTEC.

ezone

LOL NOPE.

I thought of that after I finished the post. I'm an idiot.
Coupe?
Calif. emissions?



Did you ever try swapping your old cluster back in to make sure the CEL wasn't caused by the new one?
Just a thought.




SO your cat should look like this, all built in to the manifold as one complete unit? This is what I got form the catalog..
#9 is the secondary O2 sensor.

The other choice would be the cat is under the middle of the car.


Website: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...OLD+%28SOHC%29

HTH

Anthony_76

Again, read my signature, it is a 4 door.
I would assume it has CA emissions.
Yes, the check engine light was burnt on he other luster, switched bulbs, same result.

ezone

I didn't read it. (did now though)
Dang, you sound like me.


Manifold/cat/sensors are the same for this design anyway.