1quikgp

Hello all, new to the forum... I have a 99 Civic DX. Just replaced the engine with an 88k mile engine from a salvage yard. Replaced the timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires, distributor, and oil before dropping it in. There seems to be quite a bit of valvetrain noise which I read was pretty common. Questions are, how can I be sure that's what it is, and does it need to be addressed quickly?
Also, there is a vacuum line that comes out of the intake on the drivers side, what is that for? Right now it is just a capped off line. My car is an auto without cruise. Not sure what the engine came out of.

ezone

Adjust the valves. If you can accomplish replacing an entire engine, you should be able to handle a valve adjustment. Get a service manual if you need to.


Hellifiknow. Could be for cruise, or not. I can't see from here.

Emitor

Honda Civic 97 EX VTEC D16Y8

Get'n clicking/ticking noise from the valvetrain as well just to make sure the arm to shaft clearance is;

Intake/Exhaust: .0003in / .08mm

Anything I should be careful on when servicing?

(Been trolling for away, decided to finally make an account, howdy.)

ezone

Hi.

#1, recheck those specs. You are about to make your first deadly mistake.

My info says
Intake: 0.18 - 0.22 mm (0.007 - 0.009 in)
Exhaust: 0.23 - 0.27 mm (0.009 - 0.011 in)
Measure between the tip of the valve stem, and the rocker arm adjusting screw.

Another hint: I use the inch specs. Easier for me.
I have never found metric feeler gauges in anything but 0.05mm increments.
I go for the wide end of the specs, mostly because I DO NOT want to be the one to blame for burning any valves.
Tight valves burn. Most Hondas tend to tighten up their valves over time.
Loose valves may make noise, but they don't burn.
Actually, if you can hit the specs, the valves aren't noisy.



Make sure to turn the crank as you do each cylinder. Whatever cyl you are going to be adjusting, the piston needs to be at TDC for that cylinder when you do it. Valves closed. Not on overlap.

Get a good manual. Follow directions.
Replace the valve cover gasket set since the cover will be off.

Have someone with experience handy to show you what proper "drag" FEELS like when using a feeler gauge. Light valve springs require a light touch with the gauge.

HTH

Emitor

Is that arm-to-shaft clearance?

ezone

**AHEM**
I don't think I can make that any more clear than it already is.





Why on Earth would you think to measure between the rocker arms and shafts?
Yeah, there is a spec for that, but that's not how you adjust valves.
Get a shop manual.

Emitor

AHEM? I'm a ****'n green horn to this ****, please forgive me, I'm trying to learn. Got my auto mechanic buddy to check it out, he said he'll guide me through when I've got the time.

Emitor

Found it, yeah I'm ****'n stupid, I don't know why I was looking at Rocker arms, 'Arm-To-Shaft-Clearnce" >_<

Valves; Clearance (cold)
Intake: .007 - .009
Exhaust: .009 - .011

Calls for some 007 music

ezone

Sorry, I'm probably a lousy teacher.

One rookie at the shop said I teach in riddles. He said he learned a lot, but he hated the process because I tried to make him think and figure things for himself. I didn't just hand him the answers.




The **AHEM** was to point out that I already gave the answer to the question you asked. And I then reposted such as a quote.

IIRC, it was late at night. I didn't feel like digging up a picture. Maybe this would help:

Measure between the tip of the valve stem, and the rocker arm adjusting screw:




You said you replaced the engine, so I figured you would have a bit of experience.
You know, it isn't easy to evaluate someone elses abilities.




I DID tell you several times to obtain a proper service manual.

I also suggested that you "Have someone with experience handy to show you..."...
To guide you along if you aren't comfortable with just a manual.

People get paid to write those manuals, they can explain far better and with more detail than I can.


HTH

ezone

I like Henry Mancini myself.

Theme from Peter Gunn:

LOL

And like I already said, I go for the larger end of the specs.

Emitor

That was the other guy that started this post. I got a mechanic across the lot from my shop along with my Grandfather to help me out, when I do decide to check em, but both are saying a bit of noise is alright. They both have lectured me how I got to be careful to not over tight'n them. I've been studying at our CSU library about engine fundamentals weekly. Pretty exciting so far.

Thanks for your responses/help.

ezone

LOL...I did NOT realize you were not the OP of the thread.
I didn't pay attention.
Sorry bout that.

Emitor

Emitor

Does the fuel filter play a roll in mpg performance? I don't believe my honda has ever had it's replaced, it's at 170,000+ atm.

ezone

After it gets restricted enough to hinder engine performance, due to lowered fuel volume (flow) capability.

Easy way for me to check is to drive it while monitoring live engine data on a scan tool. If the front O2 sensor shows lean while I know damn good and well it should be reading rich (at W.O.T. and redline through first and second gear or more), then I know that fuel volume can't keep up with the engine demands, and I next need to check fuel pressure and volume and estimate/perform those tests accordingly.


Your filter should be on the firewall, relatively easy to replace if you are worried about it.

Emitor

lol I know where it's located. Thanks.