motomat

I was driving and suddenly - it just died. '97 cx all stock. When trouble shooting I had very week spart so I replaced dizzy, rotor, cap, wires and plugs. Have very strong spark now. I verified that the rotor was turning indicating timing belt is still intact. Drained the gas (in case someone had tampered with my fuel) and disconnected fuel line from the rail and ran pump until all gas was out. Refueled and primed and attempted to start car. Still plenty of spark but no sign of fuel on the plugs. I'm hoping someone might know just what to look for. It seems like it could be a fuse or relay but not sure where to look. Haynes manual seems to indicate the Powertrain Control Module. I did locate the FI fuse (15a) in the fuse box under the hood and it appears to be good. Could anyone offer some good advise? I searched the forum but couldn't find what I needed. Thanks - Matt

rekomstop209

Just because a fuse looks good does not mean it is. Try finding another 15a fuse in the same box and swap them. See if whatever you put the "questionable" fuse into works.

Your problem definitely sounds electrical, especially if your fuel pump is working and your fuel filter is not clogged, and you have strong spark. Unfortunately, I know very little about electrical systems in civics.

IMHO, I do not care for Hayne's Guide. I bought one for my 99 Civic, but ever since I downloaded the actual service manual (a 2100 pg PDF file) I have not touched the Haynes guide.

You can download one and start reading. The electrical diagrams are all at the end of the PDF file, but I would read the entire section on the fuel system and make sure everything is up to par there, atleast until a senior member of this site can weigh in on what might be causing your problem.

http://www.shweet.org/Manuals/manuals.shtml

Be sure to download the correct service manual: Civic 1996-2000 EJ6, EJ7, EJ8, EM1 Service Manual

motomat

I swapped out the 15a fuses and it didn't change things.

Thanks for the referrence to the service manual.

I'm not the strongest in the electrical arena either.

motomat

OK - I thought it was the injectors becasue i didn't see gas or wetness ont the plugs when I pulled them directly after attempting to start the car. I also didn't really smell gas when the plugs were out and directly after car was cranked.

I pulled the injectors and they sprayed as they should. I put them back and still no start - doesn't even stumble.

Next step is timing. I'm trying to determine how to check that the timing is on without pulling the belt cover. I will continue to look through this forum as I thought I ran across it earlier somewhere.

If anyone knows of the top of their head - please let me know.

I will keep my progress posted

motomat

I pulled the top timing belt cover off and put the mark on the sprocket to the up position and the mark on the crank pully was also up. It appears the timing is good.

• Double checked the main relay and it seems fine.
• Used noid lights on the injectors and verified they all spray.
• Have all new ignition with very strong spark

My only guess right now is that the timing is off just enough for the car not to start. I was driving down the road and with no warning the car just lost ignition. It hasn't started since.

Is there anything more I can do to ensure timing is as accurate as possible considering the car will not start?

Any suggestions on where to go from here?

ezone

My thoughts:
If you think you need to check timing, use a timing light. If it is like 20 degrees or more out of specs, then you can suspect the timing belt jumped a tooth or more.



Recheck spark.
Pull one plug wire off from a plug,
stick a screwdriver in the end,
hold the driver near the valve cover
have someone crank it.
See how much spark it can make.

While cranking, slowly pull the screwdriver away from the valve cover to open up the gap. That spark needs to be able to jump a gap of 3/4 inch or more. If it can't jump that size of a gap, it probably needs a coil. (I then pull the cap off and do this gap test right at the coil before saying it is really bad.)
And these go bad.
If it only can give a spark across a 1/8 inch gap, the coil is junk.


Also if it lost spark, the engine usually floods, losing compression. You can pull the plugs and dump an ounce of motor oil in each cylinder, then crank it over, then reinstall the plugs and try to fire it up.

Holding the gas pedal to the floor while you crank it will shut off the injectors, sometimes this can get the engine unflooded too.

HTH

motomat

Well I just did the spark test and I'm getting 3/4 inch spark. I'll work with the timing light when I get home tonight. I wasn't aware that I could make use of the light when the car does not start/run.

Any special technique needed (considering it won't run) or just point, click and keep on cranking?

ezone

All the timing light needs is a spark going through the wires to trigger and flash.
You can check if the timing is close to the marks, but it may not be perfect at specs during crank mode.
DO NOT ADJUST the distributor (yet). If it was EVER correctly timed, it stays that way until the dist is moved or the belt jumps. Ignition timing does not normally change over the lifetime. The dist has multiple bolts holding it down, you are supposed to think an extra two times before attempting to move it (because it normally never needs adjusted). If you think it does, then look elsewhere......unless you got a junk aftermarket dist.
But you already looked at the timing belt marks, right?



I still vote that it flooded itself when it lost spark.
Can't tell much from the pic of that plug either, at least not from here.