Steel Wool

(EDIT) I must confess bad diagnostic techniques. A month or so has elapsed since I did the initial diagnostic work and posting this question. I just looked at it again. I jumpered the pressure switch and it was actually still cutting out. I checked power to the clutch and with the clutch disconnected so I could probe the connection if you blip the throttle it cuts power to the clutch momentarily. In researching this before posting I think I may have read some posts hinting at this being normal. Can anyone confirm that the car was designed to operate this way? It seems like a really bad idea if you want consistent cold vent temps in stop and go driving. If this is not normal can anyone point me in the right direction as far as other components to look at? The check engine light is not currently on. Some months ago I did have a miss on #1 cylinder code set but it only happened one time and after it was erased it never repeated.

If you rev the engine quickly the compressor will cut out and not engage again until it is back at idle. It seems to do it more the hotter it is outside after the car has been sitting idling for a few minutes and gets a good heat soak. The high pressure gauge reading is only at most 325 psi when it is 100+ degrees outside. It is my understanding the high pressure cut-off is around 450 psi and it is not getting anywhere near that. I can jumper the pressure switch and it does not do it. Is this normal? While driving it manifests as the vent temps being hot when taking off from a stop and then cooling down once you have let up off the gas and are cruising. Is it possible the cut-off switch is bad and overly sensitive? Does anybody have any ideas? I did just get done replaceing most of the a/c components and I do not remember if it was doing this before as it is my wife's car.