pwnsauce

again heres the story.

yesterday on my way to work got on the highway and right after the ramp i lost all power. car stayed on and continued to rise rpms but NO power. first thought - "oh **** timing belt". get to work explain i need to leave cuz car was messing up. got home (limped the whole way shifting around 2500-3000 rpms) and car was knocking/ticking for about a second between every shift. started diagnosing.

pulled plugs. cylinder 4 and 3 plugs covered in oil (on top not on igniter) and i realized i need spark plug tube seals. no biggie.

pulled off valve cover. everything looks fine.

checked timing. was on time but a friend explained to me that if it is about to jump a tooth or halfway between teeth that could be the problem.

bought a timing belt kit and began attempting to get the crank bolt off. a failed impact gun, 2 broken 1/2" drive extensions, and a day later it came off.

now the crazy part...i wiggled the crank pulley off while trying to catch the woodruff key incase it fell out. pulled it off looked around, NO KEY. wtf. a frantic drive to the dealer to get the woodruff key (i got there 5 minutes before they close) and $5 later i have it. went back home checked timing again, was still perfect. turned pulley to match crank and put key in. didnt install the new timing belt or tensioner since the old belt still looked good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvqotYXywPs&feature=plcp

other random things i need to know. i need this car working ASAP.

stock bore size d16y8 and opinions on golden eagle head gasket
can i use a y8 head from 96-98 ex??? i know their obd2a and mine is obd2b but any difference between just the cylinder heads? connectors the same ect.
any other problems you guys think i might run into swapping the heads out?

btw im putting arp studs in also since i still plan on running boost and i gotta take the head off.

pwnsauce

Bumpp

Anyone know how to see if the block is still good?? Or if i need more than a head

pwnsauce

just did a compression test.

1- 195
2- 185
3- 180
4- 185

wtf??

ezone

Son, that sounds to me like you chucked a rod bearing. A piston is now contacting the cylinder head.

Rev it by hand, hear the knock.
Pull ONE plug wire off
Rev it the same as before.
Did the knock sound different?
Repeat for all 4 cylinders. ONE will make a big difference in the sound.

Pull the pan off once you know which one made the difference, pull that rod cap off. This will be easy to find.

Rebuild it or replace.... the crank will be tore up on that throw, and the offending rod will need replaced because it has been beat out specs.

Dead serious. HTH

pwnsauce

just tried that but i dont hear any difference in the sound

edit: actually it changes when i pull cylinder 3. didnt notice it before.

well going to get a loan tomorrow and getting a d16y8 long block arp studs, a bisimoto level 1 cam, and f1 stage 2 clutch and 8.5 lb flywheel. might as well do all that while the engine is out.

ezone

If the piston is really smacking the head, the tone may not change much when you yank the wire off, but the consistency probably will.

The piston will contact the head when the bearing insert is missing (or beat completely flat) from the rod cap.
If you stethoscope it, the most noise will be from the bottom of the head Very little will be from the bottom end of the engine.

Sucks, huh?

HTH

pwnsauce

definetly sucks. but oh well. on the plus side i dont think i could find a better time to get the cam and clutch than with the engine out of the car lol. plus when its all said and done i will have a 0 mile (theoretically) remanufactured d16y8. its not easy finding engines if their not jdm aparently lol