Transmission Noise
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I have noticed that when I'm decelerating in 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st gear, there is a buzzing/whirling sound coming from under the gearbox (sounds like its coming from the tranny). The sound ONLY occurs when decelerating & right when I get under 2,000 rpms.
When the clutch is engaged, the sound stops.
What could this be?
When the clutch is engaged, the sound stops.
What could this be?
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Bad input shaft bearing (see my post below--i had it wrong, sorry, its not the throw out bearing)
source: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...save-some.html
source: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...save-some.html
Last edited by Zeferint; 03-25-2012 at 01:37 AM.
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Sure its not the input shaft? What makes you think its the throw out bearing?
The reason I ask is because my buddy is a mechanic and I briefly explained it to him and he quickly said it was the input shaft, in which he said is a huge $1000 or more fix.
The reason I ask is because my buddy is a mechanic and I briefly explained it to him and he quickly said it was the input shaft, in which he said is a huge $1000 or more fix.
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If you push down the clutch and the noise stops its the input shaft bearing (edit--sorry had it reversed). The input shaft bearing stops spinning when you put the clutch to the floor, hence why it stops making the noise when you do so.
Last edited by Zeferint; 03-25-2012 at 01:36 AM.
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Okay, so what costs (roughly) am I looking at. I have a trust worthy mechanic that only charges $80 an hour, as I won't be doing this myself because Im not familiar with working on trannys.
Is it simpler than replacing the input shaft? I heard those are a nightmare.
He acted like it was a huge deal and actually suggested that I sell the car lol, which I will if I end up needing to pay crazy amounts of $.
Is it simpler than replacing the input shaft? I heard those are a nightmare.
He acted like it was a huge deal and actually suggested that I sell the car lol, which I will if I end up needing to pay crazy amounts of $.
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Input shaft bearings suck major ***. It's like a $1000 repair. Throw-out bearings are actually really simple, you can do it at the same time as you swap out the clutch (if your clutch is original I would suggest swapping it out with a genuine Honda clutch or a stage 1 if you plan on modding in the future). Throw-out bearings run about $350 range.
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It's really not an urgent need-to-replace-now kind of thing. You can easily run another 40k miles on it and you wouldn't have a problem as long as the noise doesn't get any louder. Just keep swapping the fluid every 6 months and you should be fine.
My suggestion is put some money away to do it this summer, and have the clutch done, throw out bearing done, and all the fluids done. In total including parts and labor I'd say about $500
My suggestion is put some money away to do it this summer, and have the clutch done, throw out bearing done, and all the fluids done. In total including parts and labor I'd say about $500
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Wow, thanks a lot. You just took a lot of weight off my shoulders. I really thought I was going to have to sell my damn car!
$500 is wayy more in my price range, and its good to know its not urgent. Ill be Changing the fluid on Monday and like you said hopefully It quiets the sound. Ill definitely set the extra cash aside for the Throwout, and the clutch this summer.
Thanks again for the help!
$500 is wayy more in my price range, and its good to know its not urgent. Ill be Changing the fluid on Monday and like you said hopefully It quiets the sound. Ill definitely set the extra cash aside for the Throwout, and the clutch this summer.
Thanks again for the help!
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Not to second guess you, but I read a little more and almost everyone says if you push the clutch in and the noise stops, its the input shaft.
Also know that when the car is in neutral, it does NOT make the noise. ONLY when I'm in in gear, and decelerating.. from what I can hear.
Sorry to go backwards, but I just don't want to ignore a more serious problem if thats what it is.
Also know that when the car is in neutral, it does NOT make the noise. ONLY when I'm in in gear, and decelerating.. from what I can hear.
Sorry to go backwards, but I just don't want to ignore a more serious problem if thats what it is.
Last edited by 513EM1; 03-25-2012 at 12:54 AM.
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****, yes I was wrong, sorry. I reread everything 10000 times over, and if you press in the clutch and the noise STOPS...THEN it's the input shaft bearing. I totally had the way a clutch engages reversed in my head.
"The reason for this is because when you have the clutch engaged (foot off the pedal) the motor is spinning the input shaft on the transmission (even when in neutral). The bearing has a plastic cage inside of it that holds the small ball-bearings equidistant apart. This plastic cage can be broken by even a completely stock car, if it is driven hard (shifting hard, running sticky tires, etc). When this plastic cage breaks, the ball bearings load up one side of the bearing. This allows the input shaft to walk side to side slightly, which causes the gears to not mesh up right. This causes a whining and growling sound. But when you press in the clutch, the input shaft stops spinning, so the noise goes away."
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...save-some.html
Sorry again. But I don't believe it is something you have to sell your car over. My car has had that problem for the past 30k miles and I run falken azenis tires and shift like a retard and it still runs fine. Put away money every week or two weeks and in a few months you'll have enough to get it fixed. The reason why it's so expensive is because 99% of it is labor.
My personal opinion is to find a used B16A2 transmission either from a junkyard, eBay, cragislist or forums like honda-tech (b20vtec is a little too shady for me). Swapping out a honda transmission isn't difficult. Throw in a new clutch and fluid and you shouldn't have to think about that transmission for the next 15 years. Used transmissions can go for $500-600 easily.
Really, don't loose sleep over this. It's something that should stay on the radar but it's not gonna wreck your car if you drive it tomorrow. Heck if it helps, just pop the car in neutral when you decelerate. You can drive the car fine as it is as long as the noise isn't obnoxiously loud. Keep the fluid fresh (every 6 months) and just drive normally. Save up the money and do it when you got the cash. Ask your mechanic buddy to cut you a deal.
"The reason for this is because when you have the clutch engaged (foot off the pedal) the motor is spinning the input shaft on the transmission (even when in neutral). The bearing has a plastic cage inside of it that holds the small ball-bearings equidistant apart. This plastic cage can be broken by even a completely stock car, if it is driven hard (shifting hard, running sticky tires, etc). When this plastic cage breaks, the ball bearings load up one side of the bearing. This allows the input shaft to walk side to side slightly, which causes the gears to not mesh up right. This causes a whining and growling sound. But when you press in the clutch, the input shaft stops spinning, so the noise goes away."
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...save-some.html
Sorry again. But I don't believe it is something you have to sell your car over. My car has had that problem for the past 30k miles and I run falken azenis tires and shift like a retard and it still runs fine. Put away money every week or two weeks and in a few months you'll have enough to get it fixed. The reason why it's so expensive is because 99% of it is labor.
My personal opinion is to find a used B16A2 transmission either from a junkyard, eBay, cragislist or forums like honda-tech (b20vtec is a little too shady for me). Swapping out a honda transmission isn't difficult. Throw in a new clutch and fluid and you shouldn't have to think about that transmission for the next 15 years. Used transmissions can go for $500-600 easily.
Really, don't loose sleep over this. It's something that should stay on the radar but it's not gonna wreck your car if you drive it tomorrow. Heck if it helps, just pop the car in neutral when you decelerate. You can drive the car fine as it is as long as the noise isn't obnoxiously loud. Keep the fluid fresh (every 6 months) and just drive normally. Save up the money and do it when you got the cash. Ask your mechanic buddy to cut you a deal.
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Your fine don't worry about it. I am just going to start looking for a new tranny, and have it swapped out this summer. That much money for such a small fix is OUTRAGEOUS to me. Makes way more since to replace the tranny its self. I would also have this done through my local shop, so what kind of labor am I looking at having the tranny swapped out?
The last thing I want to do is sell my car. I love it and I've had it for 7 months and haven't had any problems. It does have 168,xxx miles, so I guess it could always be worse.
I haven't changed the tranny fluid since I've had it so who knows when it was last changed. Hopefully when I change it Monday the sound will still quiet down a bit.
Glad we got that cleared up though. I was starting to get confused
The last thing I want to do is sell my car. I love it and I've had it for 7 months and haven't had any problems. It does have 168,xxx miles, so I guess it could always be worse.
I haven't changed the tranny fluid since I've had it so who knows when it was last changed. Hopefully when I change it Monday the sound will still quiet down a bit.
Glad we got that cleared up though. I was starting to get confused
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Re: Transmission Noise
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The input shaft bearing is a known problem in honda transmissions. I really don't know why, but it is. To fix it you literally have to pull the whole bell housing apart. It's really confusing because the throw out bearing and input shaft bearing are constantly mixed up, and both are known to go bad so it's misdiagnosed a lot. Labor for a tranny swap is probably 7 hour range so at about $80/hr I'd say $560ish. It's gonna run you about a $1000, maybe a little more to replace all together. But in the end you'll have a fresh tranny. Before you put the new tranny in I'd definitely have the clutch and throwout bearing done. Throwout bearing won't cost you much since the transmission is already out of the car, and it's literally right there when you're doing the clutch.
Good luck man keep us posted.
Good luck man keep us posted.
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Hmm. So either way I'm looking at $1000 or more to fix the problem. Not sure what Ill do at this point, I guess Ill wait it out and then make my move this summer.
Anyways, thanks a lot for the help, it was much appreciated.
Anyways, thanks a lot for the help, it was much appreciated.
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No problem man, keep us posted. Let me know how the fluid flush works out for you. My personal recommendation for tranny fluid is Amsoil. It's pricey but well worth it.
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Okay. So the other day I noticed my clutch pedal was squeaking. I ignored its until today when I was at a stop light and actual hear the squeak coming from the outside and inside of the car.
So I drove home to look at it closer, and the squeak on the outside went away but it still does it on the inside.
Is this something I should be worried about? Is there a way to get rid of that sound?
It sounds like an old rocking chair.
So I drove home to look at it closer, and the squeak on the outside went away but it still does it on the inside.
Is this something I should be worried about? Is there a way to get rid of that sound?
It sounds like an old rocking chair.
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It's just from age. My clutch squeaks and its 141k miles old. I am assuming yours is original as well. The part of the transmission that lifts the clutch when you engage it is probably just squeaking either from lack of good lubrication or just because of its age in general. A fresh fluid flush might solve your problem there, too.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtf.aspx <--- that stuff is the bomb. best mtf you can buy for your tranny, period.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtf.aspx <--- that stuff is the bomb. best mtf you can buy for your tranny, period.
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Well, I've got some awesome news. Long story short, I took my car to my mechanic, he drove it around and told me that it is definitely not the input shaft bearing. He explained it to me, sounding very sure of his reasoning. He said it is either a small leak coming from my headers that is causing the sound or a loose bolt on the exhaust/header underneath that could also be causing a noise.
Tomorrow I'm taking it in to get the tranny fluid changed, and were gonna figure out where that sound is coming from while we've got the car on the lift.
Wow I'm so happy!!!
Tomorrow I'm taking it in to get the tranny fluid changed, and were gonna figure out where that sound is coming from while we've got the car on the lift.
Wow I'm so happy!!!
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Turns out, there is a big hole in my headers. They are old and rusted so it doesnt suprise me.
Just ordered Yonaka headers to match my Yonaka exhaust & they just so happened to be on sale for $199.99, there originally $349.99.
Just ordered Yonaka headers to match my Yonaka exhaust & they just so happened to be on sale for $199.99, there originally $349.99.
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