WaryDriver

First, do any of you remove this cylinder block drain bolt (see yellow arrow in pic below for location) to do a coolant change? I read to remove the cylinder block drain bolt just after removing the radiator's drain plug. The problem is that I don't have a way of torquing it using my wrenches and sockets due to its embedded location and proximity to the oil filter. Plus, it needs to be tightened pretty tight if it does get removed some way. What rig should be used to remove this and then install to correct torque specs?

ezone

I would just drain it at the radiator, and refill it. Do it on a regular basis. MUCH simpler. Far less mess.


If you REALLY are dead set on draining the block, the bolt torque is 29 ft/lb (I looked up a 93 since I can't tell for sure what your pic is), and the bolt has a sealing washer that should be replaced.

Ratchet/extension/universal joint/socket?
I can't see it in your pic to see what is in the way.
Remove the oil filter?
It CAN'T be that hard.

Stock 99

LOL, yeah it can.

I changed my coolant last year and went through this same debate. Unless you have it on a hoist it's a bugger to even see that bolt. If your using an aftermarket oil filter you won't be able to get a wrench on it.

I didn't do it, myself. From the reading I did on these forums there will be some old coolant left in the system if you don't. The suggestion was to flush it with water a couple times and then alter your coolant/water ratio to compensate for the water that would be left trapped in your system. Personally I just drained and refilled without touching that bolt.

oh yeah, you'd need a torque wrench if you wanted to get the bolt back in to spec.

ezone

Oh THAT explains it. I have that luxury, I don't do work in the driveway. LOL

WaryDriver

It's 58 lbf*ft for that bolt on my 98 car. I do have a torque wrench but the problem is what I'd have to do if I wanted to torque this bolt back to spec. The axle is also in the way for torquing.

Stock 99

One thing I was cautioned about (Honda Dealership) is that bolt probably has never been removed (my local Honda dealership doesn't even do it when they change the coolant on these models) so you could possibly shear the bolt trying to get it out. I feel your pain though, with out getting the car up high it'll be really hard to get a torque wrench in there.

My suggestion would be to torque it as close as you can with a smaller wrench and then use the torque wrench on it for the final fine tuning. You'll probably need a combination of extensions and maybe an elbow to get at it which of course will give the torque wrench less accuracy.

brucepick

Ouch. I bought a block heater that goes where the block drain is. Didn't realize I might not get it out!

How about PB Blaster - or your own favorite stuck bolt loosener - to help get it out?? Or would that be not good around the coolant system? I can't see more than microdrops of that stuff staying in the system, since the fluid is being drained.

How about gentle impact? I've had good luck with stuck brake bleed valves, tapping on a wrench handle gently for gosh-knows-how-long till the thing finally came free. This is bigger so I could use air impact (good idea???) or a hammer on a half inch drive socket and handle set. What do you think??

[Please let's not debate that I don't need a block heater unless I'm in Alaska. This is a fuel economy project car. I'll come out ahead in mpg if I can eliminate most of the warmup needed in colder weather. Getting about 54-55 mpg now, in a '97 HX coupe.]

Thanks.

Stock 99

I use PB blaster too. Love the stuff!

More than anything it's just almost impossible to reach that bolt unless it's on a hoist. It's got a fair amount of torque on it as well something like 60 ft-lbs so you have to get a good wrench on it.

I wouldn't worry too much about breaking the bolt but keep in mind steel bolt/aluminum block = be careful.

brucepick

Aw c**p. I have no hoist, I'd be using jack stands. AND I built a belly pan below the car, so there's just a cutout hatch about 10" x 12" under where I need to reach to change the oil. That's where the drain plug is but that little hatch is going to give me only a cramped working area. I'll just have to see if I can get a wrench on that hex with any leverage.

Anyone have any thoughts on using impact on the drain plug - either via hammer taps or an air wrench?