Al_

Hello Civic Forum! This is my first post. I will introduce myself in the other forum later, but this needs attention first.

I was recently given a 1997 Civic EX Coupe. What I have been told about it is that it was in a front-end accident. Many of the parts were bent out of shape, so the previous owner bent them back (panels and radiator mount). I have since done some fine-tuning to align the panels better and point the headlights in the correct direction.

The car has a very loud metal-on-metal clunk on both sides when I drive over any decent sized crack in the road.

When I got the car, the steering wheel was rotated about 5 degrees to the right when driving straight. The front wheels were obviously toe'd out, so I adjusted the right tie rod until the car drove straight and the steering wheel was aligned properly.

Also the car shakes violently at about 27 and 47 mph. This only happens when the engine is at about 1500-1700 rpm and I think the torque converter has locked up. The car feels like I am driving over washboard-roads. This is not a tire balance or roundness issue. I know how those feel and this is not that.

When the car is in the air, the wheels are FIRM. I recently replaced the complete front strut assemblies. I also replaced the control arm strut bushing with an energy suspension bushing. A few days ago, I removed the sway bar to see if that would solve the problem, but this did not. The brakes are also two weeks old.

I am aslo having an issue with the transmission control solenoid, but it only acts up when it is hot outside (stays in 4th gear). Otherwise, the car shifts and accelerates normally. I will take care of this in the next few days when I change the tranny fluid and filter.

Any input? Some are telling me that it could be the driveshaft or the steering rack. What could cause a noise over bumps but the suspension still feels firm when I drive?

MindBomber

Ball joints and tie rods sound most likely.

Al_

But the wheel is very firm when I put the car in the air?

I disconnected the ball joints when I replaced the struts. They seemed to be in good condition.

Is there a specific way to check the lower ball joint?

lazlong

It's probably the upper mounts. Pull the shocks and inspect the top mounts. Hell, that ish may be bent too.

Al_

But those are new as well. What are the odds that both of my new front struts are faulty? I bought the strut as a complete assembly. All I had to do to install it was plate the two nuts on the top of the strut to secure it to the chassis and attach the bottom end to the strut fork.


I just spent some time under my civic and checked just about everything to see what was loose.

How loose should the inner CV joint be? The entire inner housing has play!

There is zero play between the shaft and the housing, but the splined shaft does not seem to fit into the transmission properly. There is about 1/8 inch of movement if I grab the inboard cv joint (not the shaft) and move it up and down. I remember that my 92 integra had some play even when a new shaft was installed, but I do not recall the play being this pronounced.

lazlong

Could be the towers themselves were bent also but, anyways, the axles shouldn't move that much at all. You need to replace the axle(s).

Al_

I found a/the issue...I think.

I was looking at the passenger side engine mount when I noticed that the engine bracket was missing a bolt. Not only was the bolt missing, but the threaded boss on the engine was broken off. This just might be it.

I'm pondering what I could/should do at this point.

The proper thing would be to put a different engine in.
An engine swap would be fun, but I am not motivated to spend $ like that right now.
I could try to find a way to salvage what I have and MacGyver the mount.

I'll try the MacGyver method first. I have every tool and material necessary to make this work.

lazlong

I forget what they call it but, they make threaded inserts just for issues like this. You have to drill out the threads and insert the threaded sleeve.

Al_

The part of the engine where the bolt threads into is completely gone!

lazlong

Dam, my reading comprehension sucks today. Sorry.

Go to the salvage yard and hack that piece off an engine there then weld it on. But, seriously, looks like a new block for you. I see 'em all over craigslist for $100-200. You can find one for about $200 here: http://www.car-part.com/ If you have to have it shipped they can usually ship it for $100 or less.

EDIT: By now it couldn't hurt to try to weld something on there even if it's a solid mount. I think it would make things worse if you didn't go with solid mounts all around tho. Word of warning: You will feel EVERY vibration from the engine.