Bires

iTrader: (1)

As far as eDead goes, it's good stuff. Sticks better than some. Great for its cost. If you do use it:

1. Use AT LEAST two layers, in strips, put down at 90-degree angles to each other
2. Plan to get at least 100square feet to do a reasonable job
3. Clean your metals surfaces well (acetone is my favorite)
4. Your car will stink like a freshly oiled-and-paved road for a couple of weeks until the stuff cures and hardens somewhat. A week of hot days with your windows down will speed things up.

nindoo

iTrader: (1)

for the engine noise you reccomended this
Cascade VB-TS

will placing it under the hood, and under the dash here

make a significant diff, or do I really need to open up the dash and apply the material everywhere on the firewall to quiet down the interior engine noise.

Bires

iTrader: (1)

Engine compartment.

twiztedD17A1

You know what else works really good is the -----> ( LOW ) <---- expansion insulating foam. Cheep as **** but messy have lots of old sheets handy. Well not for the Dash of course. the trunk and pillars more or less. stick it in all the hole in the trunk frame and let it do its thing flush cut the excess and then use what ever material you find suitable for sound damping. I did this and noting rattles. All parts of the trunk sound solid.

pon55

iTrader: (19)

Another thread has a-risen, praise the lord.

Silvership05

the only problem with that stuff that ive found on some car audio sites is that if you live in a rather hot area like some places in the south, the stuff can keep expanding even years after youve used it. a guy, with a civic, used it in his trunk. let it set, cut the excess, and then dynamatted over it and it eventually warped his trunk lid because when it expanded the dynamat kept it in and it had to go somewhere. just something to think about.

cb450sc

Ya I know this is a very old thread, but would some of the new purple spray insulation that you can get at home depot be a good some deadener in areas that you could see?

Clerk

I want the interior engine noise to be quiter as well as googlethe road noise that comes from the rear near the fenders.

pon55

iTrader: (19)

But another car!

Clerk

Check out the Adhesion... 3 pounds per square inch on plywood. If the surface is dry, free of dirt and oils, should stick more than enough and not come off ever... if you stick it together, it ain't never coming apart.

mgaines9

I suggest using CDL Tiles for most any sound deadening you need done. It can be put on all surfaces of your door and body it works 5x better than Dynamat and half the cost. checkout the link http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Civic15

Is it a ridiculous notion to worry about worse fuel mpg from adding sound deadening, whether it be Dynamat in the trunk for subs, or whatever...?

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Yea! Its going to have a minimal affect on MPG. If you Dyna-matted the whole car from top to bottom I could see worrying about it.

Weigel21

I've heard that on average, you loose 1MPG with every extra 100lbs of weight in the car. So, properly daedended, you may loose 1MPG.

pon55

iTrader: (19)

^ ^ ^ only uphill!

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

my best mileage was obtained with stock steelies and car full of stuff - the headlights were pointing to the skies, rear tires 1" inside the fenders. 44MPG. if you are only going highways, the heavier the better. it starts moving, don't wanna stop anymore.

mac25

the hell you'd want this stuff in a race car? =D

thornygravy

I'm getting ready to sound deaden with Damplifier Pro. I can really only to afford to do a section at a time. Trying to figure out if I should do the rear deck/trunk/trunk lid first or the doors. Obviously I'm eventually going to do both.. I'm leaning more towards doing the doors first to get that enclosure effect for my midbass drivers. What do yall think?

thornygravy

I did the doors first. Definitely the most gains from doing that.