redcloud

Hi All,

Where is the best (least noticeable, least stressful [on me and on amp], easiest to attach and wire up) place to locate a new amp? Doing a total revamp of the factory audio.

2003 Civic EX sedan

Amp: Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D

Amp dimensions: width - 9 1/8"
height - 2"
depth - 7 3/8"

Amp connections are along entire long side.

Many thanks,

Red


Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D

mcnoople

You are running this as a 4 channel amp? There isn't any simple way to run a 4 channel other than running wires. If you had 1 of the tiny micro sized 4 channel I would try to find a place in the dash behind the radio. Will it fit under your seat? The other choice would be to run all 8 speaker wires to the rear shelf direct from the radio. That would give you 2 really short rear channel speaker wires and you would have to run 2 back up to the front for the door speakers.

Regardless of where you find the space for it you will still have to run a decent amount of wire. Were I doing the job I would get a pair of 2 channel amp and install 1 behind the radio and the other would be at the rear shelf with the rear speakers. Wherever you install them make sure you can get to the controls to set it up and dial it in.

redcloud

Should have given more system info.

I'm ditching the rear deck speakers and putting a JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 sub in the trunk and bridging the rear speaker outputs of the amp to that.

The front speakers will be 6.5" Infinity Kappa 62.11i.

The new HU is a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X399.

mcnoople

So you are going to be running 2 front 6.5 and a rear sub powered by a 4 channel ran as a 3 channel amp? Since you are using an aftermarket HU you should be able to just run a pair of RCA cables which would greatly simplify the effort with the wiring.

I think I would mount it to the underside of the rear deck or tuck it in behind the trunk liner on either side of the trunk. Make sure to use adequate sized wire, fused at the battery, and with a good solid ground source.

lowlife9

you can mount the amp to the back of the rear seats that way its out of the way and you can just flip down the rear seat for tuning or maintenance. i have two large amps a capacitor and two fuse boxes mounted to my seats. also if its an extremely hot day i can just flip down my seats for better air-flow. what i did was un zip the seat cloth then mount some fiber board to the metal seat frame then just mounted my components to the wood.use self taping metal screws for the frame. you can see my setup at the bottom of this thread https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...etter-one.html

redcloud

Now that you mention it, I'm still not clear about some of the wiring, though it is starting to come into focus as I read more. I've had the dash apart and installed an iPod adapter just fine, but never dug this deep into the car's electrical guts before. I was wondering why I would need those skinny little speaker outputs from the HU wiring harness when the signal was going through an amp before the speakers. Now I assume one just blinds them off with tape or something and runs RCAs from the outputs on the back to the amp instead, right?

Also, the manual for the amp says it should be mounted so as to not interfere with the heat sinks, but I'll be damned if I can tell where they are. It looks like a smooth box to me. Mounting behind the trunk liner sounds kind of heat-ish, and can you mount an amp upside down?

redcloud

That's a helluva rig you've got there. I don't even recognize half that stuff. But the location is great! Did you pull an upholsterer's magic trick to get it to look so good?

I'm an older guy. This little system of mine is not designed to wake the neighbors or to be a WMD. I'm just out to improve the sound of Duane Allman's slide guitar. I'm truly in awe of the electronic wizardry all you guys have accomplished.

If I can make this work, I'll think of you guys.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

It needs to go somewhere with adequate ventilation. If it was a small 25W amp you could hide it somewhere under something but not a 400W. Mine is on the back of the rear seat. The outside case is the heat sink. I was able to just screw into the seat brackets.

Run as short of a ground as you can, mine is under the back seat. Run your power wires seperate from the speaker wire.

It sounds like you are going to run the front speakers off of 2 channels and use a bridged channel for the sub. Is this correct?

redcloud

Yes. I've never been able to hear the rear speakers in this car, so I decided to just lose them and run a sub in the trunk instead. Seems like most of the useable sound action is produced in the front anyway, and the sub will just reinforce the bass. That's the theory, anyway.

You wouldn't happen to have a photo of the way you attached the amp to the seat brackets, would you? Did you take some of the existing bracket screws out? Maybe it will become obvious when I dig into the seat back.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

I used the same theory for mine. I faded all the music to the front since all the bass was coming from the back. I prefer the bass to be in the back.

You will see them once you pull the carpet back. They are just supports for the foam. I used self tapping screws to hold it on. Depending on where your mount brackets are on amp it may not line up. I don't have pics.

redcloud

Thanks, Golnat.

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

The amp is small enough to fit under the seat. Less wiring. More secure against theft.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

I don't know if it's anymore secure but it is less wiring. Might be a PITA to wire and adjust under the seat.

redcloud

I've thought a lot about that location, for the very reasons you mention. Wouldn't you have to basically take the seat out to put it together?

redcloud

That is why the back of the seat mount that Golgnat pictured seemed a decent compromise, but I'm still going around and around about this. The Civic is one of the most stolen cars in the US. I have three cars, one of which is an '04 Audi TT. The Civic is the most expensive to insure.

On another topic, Crutchfield says this RF amp requires a 40 amp fuse at the battery, but most wiring kits are sold with 100-120 amp fuses. Isn't it dangerous for the amplifier to run a much larger capacity fuse than required?

Thanks guys.

TiggerDX

iTrader: (1)

Yes you would have to pull the seat out. But it is less power wire needed, shorter RCAs and shorter speaker wires, but a longer sub cable.
If you are looking at kits with 100+ amp fuses, those are usually for multiple amp installs. (although there are amps out there that do require that. I had PPI amps that used 80 amp fuses.)
You want to have the fuse the correct size. You can replace the fuses in the kit.

pjb3

I think what Crutchfield means is that this amp requires at least a 40 amp circuit. The fuse at the battery is what the wire can safely carry. The amp itself will probably have it's own fuse and that is the fuse that is protecting the amp.
It is not uncommon for people to run a 100-120 amp line to the trunk and then have a distribution block and power multiple amps. In this case each amp has a fuse protecting it and the fuse at the battery is protecting the main wire and circuit if all the amps should pull more current than the wire is rated for. You can use a lower amp fuse at the battery if you want, you can not use a bigger one.

redcloud

Except for this in Crutchfield's list of specs:

"Fuses: The amplifier does not have on-board fuses. A 40A fuse should be placed on the power wire within 18" of the battery."

That is why I asked about this, because every other amp I have read about has an on-board fuse. Without an on-board fuse, there is only the one by the battery to protect the amp from a surge.

So I should take Crutch's advice, right? Because I really don't know.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Crutch is correct. I would do that.

pjb3

If the amp does not have its' own fuse then I would go ahead and use a 40 amp fuse at the battery for the circuit.

ZoSoIV

under the seat or truck would be the best place,

lowlife9

i personally wouldn't mount an amp under the seat for lack of a proper heat sink especially if the amp doesn't have an internal fan.

redcloud

Just to diversify this thread even further, is it cool to use unleaded silver solder on electronics? I have a bunch of it around from plumbing projects, and it'd be nice to use what's on hand.

Thanks for all the terrific suggestions, guys.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Plumbing solder may not have to correct metal mixture for conductivity. Solder used for circuits is made to help conduct electricity, plumbing solder is to hold joints together.

Electrical solder also has flux in it, not that you can't add it with a flux pen but it's easier when it's in the solder.

redcloud

Thanks. I didn't know there was a difference.

pjb3

It depends on what you are soldering. If you are soldering speaker wires together I doubt it would make a difference. Silver solder melts at a higher temperature but with wires that should not damage anything, the higher content of silver and copper should give better conduction but I don't think you could hear a difference.

If you are soldering a circuit board you want to use a rosin core solder.