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*** 6 10" woofers ***

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Old 05-12-2002   #1 (permalink)
Barney
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*** 6 10" woofers ***

For anyone who knows,

What is the best way to wire and which amp should I use on 6 10" sony explodes, the single voice coil ones. please help.
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Old 05-12-2002   #2 (permalink)
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I really don't know much about systems but I think you my need more than one amp for that many subs.. I would like to see pics when you get it all done. I want to see how you fit them all in. Should hit really hard with that many subs
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Old 05-13-2002   #3 (permalink)
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what are they rated at and also why did you go with the sonys? not dogging you just trying to learn
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Old 05-13-2002   #4 (permalink)
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http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...8L1036&o=m&a=0

I'm guessing those are it...
Impedance 4 ohms
Cone Material High-rigidity poly
Surround Material Santoprene rubber
Sealed Box Volume (cu ft) 0.7
Ported Box Volume (cu ft) N/A
Port diameter (inches) N/A
Port length (inches) N/A
Free-Air No
Dual Voice Coil No
Sensitivity 88dB
Frequency Response 25 - 2.8k Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 40-250
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 700
Top Mount Depth (inches) 4 15/16
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) 5 7/16
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 9 3/16
Vas (liters) 51.6
Fs (Hz) 25.4
Qts 0.33
Xmax (millimeters) 4.3

I'm not sure what teh best way to wire them would be. THere are a few options, but that depends on teh amp(s) a lot.
-Ed
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Old 05-13-2002   #5 (permalink)
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best way to install is in three sets of isobaric clusters, all sharing say, your spare tire air.

best way to wire them is to wire each pair in series, for an 8 ohm load, then the three sets in parrallel, to yield 2.66 ohm load.

those are the first subs ive ever owned. BEST way to install them IMO is about 1.5 cube each, meaning isobaric needs .75 cube each, times three is something along the lines of 2.5 cubes sealed for teh six, isobaric would be great for those subs.

as far as power, they love 50 watts per, meaning a 300 watt amp is all you need. I wouldnt risk giving them 600 watts by far, these are not power hungry subs! however, id say 400 watts or so total would be very healthy.

if you had an unregulated amp that put out 300-350 watts at 4 ohms and was 2 ohm stable, its perfect, even more than enuff for those subs.

good luck fitting those in a civic! i applaud your effort! (even tho mowhawk doesnt approve of your sub choice [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG])
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Old 05-14-2002   #6 (permalink)
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*cough*Sony Xplod Sux *Cough*. Sorry, couldn't resist. But I have the information you're looking for. Here's a wiring diagram.
JL Audio's 6 SVC Wiring Diagram
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Old 05-14-2002   #7 (permalink)
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White Rabbit has one thing correct, wire 2 subs together in series to yeild an 8 ohm load then wire those in parallel....but placing the subs into an isobaric enclosure is not only a pain for a simple install but will yeild less SPL than if you run them in pairs in sealed enclosures, this will be the easiest setup to build. These subs work very well in small ported enclosures but with this you must build an enclosure with 6 different chambers, a little more work but in the long run if you want more SPL (and i'm guessing you do if you have 6 subs) you will get it. The down side to ported enclosures is you will need more power for the subs. as far as power goes if you can find an amplifier that has about 150watts X 2 that is 2ohm stable bridged, this should work out quite well for you.....as far as installing these subs the easiest way would be to create a false floor set up and divide the sparetire well into 3 equal chambers and run 1 pair of subs per chamber in sealed enclosures


Just my $0.02
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Old 05-14-2002   #8 (permalink)
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<< Just my $0.02 >>



your .02 is costing me alot in effort [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]



<< but placing the subs into an isobaric enclosure is not only a pain for a simple install but will yeild less SPL than if you run them in pairs in sealed enclosures, this will be the easiest setup to build. >>



easy, yes, but best SQ? just because you bought bargain brand speakers doesnt mean you shouldnt care how you install them! model up some sony xpolds sometime! if they are my gen, they want
1.7 cubes sealed. no wonder mine sounded so good with 3 cubes to a pair! (despite the fact i had no idea what i was doing at the time.)

therefore, for BEST sq in a sealed box, rather than 6 at 1.7 cubes each, you can install three pairs of isobaric at .8-ish cubes each. thats a sum total volume of 2.4 cubes! space comes at a premium for some people....

for sure, some ppl DONT care about SQ whatsoever. looking back at the question, i just realized that box didnt factor into teh question. ill drop teh matter, but i must say it is REALLY easy to build an isobaric box. just as easy as regular. and as far as SPL goes, you have half the cone area. but if you have twice the SQ, who cares? it would be like he installed three 10's!

SQ first, THEN SPL. there is an order to things [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]





<< These subs work very well in small ported enclosures but with this you must build an enclosure with 6 different chambers, a little more work but in the long run if you want more SPL (and i'm guessing you do if you have 6 subs) you will get it. >>



well, this is news to me! first of all, why separate chambers? i understand the regidity factor and the fact if one dies then the rest of yoru system goes unnaffected, but why "must" he build a box with 6 different chambers? im sure you know how much mowhawk overuses words like this, he doesnt NEED seperate chambers.

undoubtedly he wants SOME sort of SPL if he bought 6 10's. but how much SQ is he willing to sacrifice? you put those in a small ported box and you will destroy them SO fast, just a small bit of distortion playing at a frequency below your tuning frequency and you fry teh sub.

Did i ever tell you i still have my sony's? i have them for my home theater setup, to accentuate the low end. I spent a weekend modelling the box and two weeks building it. a PAIR of sony xplod tens for a FLAT frequency response require a box volume of over 7 cubes! try to fit 21 cubes into a civic! of course, the solution is easy, build a smaller box. first of all, take a look at a 6 cube box ported for those speakers. F3 of 35 Hz, which may seem very decent for those speakers! then you look at teh port. even with a 4 inch port (which is huge for a 1 cube box and a ten!) the port mach is .35 can you say "port noise???" [IMG]i/expressions/laugh2.gif[/IMG] a two inch port would be fine for volume, but has a port mach of .84. .84!!! jeez!

have you ever installed these subs?



<< The down side to ported enclosures is you will need more power for the subs. as far as power goes if you can find an amplifier that has about 150watts X 2 that is 2ohm stable bridged, this should work out quite well for you.....as far as installing these subs the easiest way would be to create a false floor set up and divide the sparetire well into 3 equal chambers and run 1 pair of subs per chamber in sealed enclosures >>



MORE power? i would love to hear an explanation for first of all why ported can take more power, then secondly why it NEEDS more power (mowhawkism again) of course near the tuning frequency the cone movement is nil, but at extreems (ESPECIALY) low frequencies your cones gonna move like a *****! you dont wanna overpower it in your usable range! I wouldnt personally give these subs more than 120 watts RMS (unles i was burping), and i HIGHLY reccommend far less. if you cna give 120ish to each pair, your doing good. an underrated 400 watt amp would be perfect for your application, but make sure it puts out your desired power at your desired ohm load. (2.66 ohms)

well, that answeres yoru question about amp and wiring. if you would like us to continue debating about box designs, let us know
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Old 05-14-2002   #9 (permalink)
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best box, BTW, is 2.6 cubes isobaric with clamshel loading. not the best LOOKING, but surely the best performer from an SQ standpoint. (dmamit, why do i always have to try to get teh last word in?[IMG]i/expressions/moon.gif[/IMG] )
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Old 05-15-2002   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot everyone.

I traded some twenty inch rims of my mercedes for the 10's and some money. So I thought what the hell, I will put them in my civic.

but thanks again everyone

will this work 1. 1200 watt 2150c audiobahn amp (capable of 1200 1ohm mono)
2. 6 sony tens
3. the amp is 2 channel
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Old 05-15-2002   #11 (permalink)
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<< Thanks a lot everyone.

I traded some twenty inch rims of my mercedes for the 10's and some money. So I thought what the hell, I will put them in my civic.

but thanks again everyone

will this work 1. 1200 watt 2150c audiobahn amp (capable of 1200 1ohm mono)
2. 6 sony tens
3. the amp is 2 channel
>>



4. that amp is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too much power. 400, MAX. or you will have traded your rims for 6 fried subs.

what does it put out at 4 ohms and 2 ohms? if it puts out 1200 PEAK at 1 ohm, and like 300 RMS at 4 ohms, then it might be a good amp for you.......
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Old 05-15-2002   #12 (permalink)
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Whitrabbit here is the specs on it:

A2150HC 2-channel Amplifier
150x2 @ 4 ohm | 300x2 @ 2 ohm | 450x2 @ 1 ohm | 1200x1 @ 1 ohm RMS
Am improvement over the HC, this HCX model offers updated styling, a remote bass control, sub-sonic filter, and blue internal lighting.
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Old 05-15-2002   #13 (permalink)
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Whiterabbit her are the specs for the 1600 watt as well:

A2200HCX 2-channel Amplifier w/ remote gain knob
200x2 @ 4 ohm | 400x2 @ 2 ohm | 600x2 @ 1 ohm | 1600x1 @ 1 ohm RMS
Am improvement over the HC, this HCX model offers updated styling, a remote bass control, sub-sonic filter, and blue internal lighting.
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Old 05-15-2002   #14 (permalink)
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with an amp like that, probably the best way to wire the subs is each pair in parrallel so you get a 2 ohm load, then al those in series to get overall 6 ohm load.........
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