DeX

Okay so I took everything I could out of a donor car and I'm hoping I have everything. I took the entire door panels from both doors, the motors and the metal track piece that bolts to the glass. I also fished out the complete wiring harness that goes through the door jamb and plugs into a connector by the hood release.

Now I guess I could check later but is this connector in my DX already since I currently have power locks or will I need to get this connector as well and go right back to the fuse panel with it?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

check last link of my sig. should help, there is a diy for adding pw. sometimes the site is down tho...

K/Turbo

If your adding aftermarket power windows then the DX-Resource link can help.

If your adding factory power windows then your going to need the dash wiring from an LX and the control unit/fuse box unit that sits behind the dashpanel under to your steering wheel. If you have an auto then get the auto dash harness or if you have an 5 speed then get the 5 speed dash harness because they seem to be a little different. I was starting to go this route but I haven't found enough time to remove my dash to do this.

The dash harness and power window harness intertwine with each other so if you want your wiring to look factory you going to have to change the whole dash harness.

DeX

The whole harness? I don't know about that. Are you sure?

I took a look at it tonight, wired everything up, made sure all the fuses were in the right spots and tried it with utter failure, it didn't work. So what I'm thinking is there aren't any wires in the harness running from the fuse panel to the plugs in the corners of the foot wells where the door harnesses plug in. So if I can run some 14-18 gauge wires from the fuse panel to the backs of those plugs, the power windows should work. Is that wrong? I could just go get whatever I need out of the other car but this sounds simpler. I could easily take a knife and cut the dash out of the donor but with all the people after the black interiors, I'd feel like I'm performing something blasphemous in doing so.

Oh and it's a 5 speed and all parts I'm adding are factory parts from the donor car. All OEM.

sureshot1979

yooooo STOP RIGHT THERE the best way to add power windows to a non power window civic is to gofrom the battery to the switches the reason why is because if you try to put it in the fuse panel you are going to bust some relays trust me i know and they are not cheap GO TO A SOUND SHOP IF THEY BLOW SOME **** THEY WILL REPLACE IT FOR FREE but you will have to pay a fee like everybody else but if you want to do it yourself do it my way its more reliable...... install the motors in the doors....run wires to the battery and ignition source.... put inline 30amp fuse to positive and to ignition source run wires to switch.....if this does not help you check this website out www.spal.com they make and sale cooling fans and power window kits also door openers for shaved doors. they are reliable and not expensive the window kits are bad *** good luck on trying to prying the window down with these kits......if you are trying to go jdm dis regard this statement

DeX

I just took another look at the harness and the one inside my car definitely does not have as many wires going back to the fuse panel as the one inside the donor car. That means I should just have to run these wires from fuse panel to harness and it should work. Anyone disagree?

DeX

Oh, forgot I started this thread, I posted some questions in another thread. Okay well here's where I'm at right now. I know for sure I have all the parts for the door and also the door harness that plugs in inside the foot well in the car. Unfortunately the harness it plugs into in the foot well which runs back to the fuse panel doesn't have the wires for the power windows. So I have to run some wires from each foot well back to where the harnesses plug in just above the fuse panel but I don't know exactly where these wires should go there. Does anyone know. There are a bunch of harnesses plugged in right above the fuse panel under the steering wheel and I need to know which spots in which harness do power window wires go?

DeX

Okay so I can't use the wire harness I pulled out of the donor car because that's for a 2001-2003 and the fuse panels are different for my 2005. I need to wire up the power/ground myself and I might have this kind of figured out.

First some questions before I do the writeup.

So I think I might have this figured out. I got all the parts from the donor car which is a 2001 so while I have all the wiring harnesses and switches, the plugs on the ends of the harnesses are a bit different and don't directly plug into the fuse panel. However I think I might have this pretty much figured out. The motor needs to be hooked to the switch and the switch needs to get power/ground from a 12 volt source. As far as I know, that's pretty much it.

The first picture is the plug that goes into the switch.
The second picture is the plug that goes into the motor.

As you can see, there are 4 wires going into the motor - blue, black, red/black, red yellow. The same 4 wires go into the switch, the reason there are so many wires is because this is the driver side switch which runs both windows, the passenger side only has 2 wires. So I've got to just isolate these 4 wires and plug one end into the switch, the other end into the motor. Then all I need to do (I assume) is isolate the only other 2 wires going into the switch which carry power/ground. Does this sound right?

The other things I'm wondering is the switch which disables window use. When the windows are locked, nobody can use them and this switch controls that. And lastly, some wire has to run from the driver side switch to the passenger side motor because it controls both windows.

Are my assumptions right? Any thoughts on my questions?

DeX

Hey, I just found a wiring diagram online for the harness. For the driver side power windows, here are the wires coming out of the plug I show in the picture:

Red/Black - motor up
Red/Yellow - motor down
ORN (Orange?) - ???????
Green/White - ignition
Black - ground
Blue/Red - passenger switch up
Blue/White - passenger switch down
Green/Black - ignition and passenger side switch
Black - ground

There is another blue wire coming out of the harness, it's not mentioned in the schematic. Where does this go?
What does ORN go to? Is it short for orange? I don't have an orange wire in my harness.
Does that look like all I need?

Since I have the rest of the harness, I just plug it into the motor and that takes care of the red/black and the red/yellow wires, they're easy. The orange I have no clue because I don't know what that is in the diagram and I don't have an orange wire in my harness. The green/white is easy, I can splice into an ignition source for that. And black is easy, any ground will do. It looks like the ignition wires actually go to the power window relay in the fuse panel though, might want to use that instead of another ignition source.

lordhelmet

iTrader: (3)

I saw your thread update last night when I was on campus studying. Give me until this evening and I'll try and help you troubleshoot. To me it looks like orange=blue in the motor plug.

DeX

Thanks man, really looking forward to the help.

lordhelmet

iTrader: (3)

I'm tentatively comparing your wiring harness to the one in my book. Things aren't matching up very well with the colors.

lordhelmet

iTrader: (3)

Here are the plugs:

Master switch from the wire side:


Driver's window motor from the terminal side:


Passenger's switch from the wire side:

Rennen

iTrader: (35)

props to you for trying to figure all this out. but i would have definitely just gone with a universal power window kit from ebay.

DeX

lordhelmet, which year is that book for and is it for a coupe? My car is a 2005 and the harness if from a 2001, both coupes.

DeX

Oh ya baby, it works! I stripped back the jacket on the green/white wire and hooked it to the battery (+), then stripped the jacket on the black and hooked it to the battery (-). When I looked at the buttons, the LED was on and pushing it made the motor move up/down. It brought a tear to my eye!

DeX

For anybody interested, this past weekend I got both sides working with all the buttons and locks. As soon as I can pick up enough wire to install everything I'll do a writeup on exactly how it's done.

DeX

Okay I'm still at this and having troubles again.

I got everything working perfectly outside the car. I cut the harnesses out from the spaghetti of wiring to isolate only the wires I need right back to the plugs that go into the switches. Here's how I wired them, it's actually pretty simple:
- driver side blue/white to passenger side blue/white
- driver side blue/red to passenger side blue/red
- driver side green/black to passenger side green/black
- driver side green/white to add-a-circuit for fuse panel (switched source)
- driver side black to grounded bolt
- cut into the green/black connected wire mentioned above and spliced it into a 10 gauge wire going straight to the battery that I use for my carputer.

I wired up everything by just twisting the wires together and everything worked fine. The windows were very slow to go up/down but I thought that was normal. So I soldered the connections on the blue/white, blue/red and green/black wires that connect between switches. Then covered with heat shrink like a proper join and removed the power/switched/ground wires for now. After I was done I had been running the heaters/windows/computer for so long it killed my battery so I got a boost from the neighbour and dook an hour drive to charge it up.

I drove around for the day like this without the power/switched/ground wires hooked up. The following day I used a mini add-a-circuit to plug in the green/white wire to fuse 8 in the fuse panel, it looks like so:



Except mine only has 1 fuse in it, not sure why there's 2 spaces. Maybe I should check that out. I plugged that into fuse 8 which the book says is for the moonroof but when I plugged it in the heaters cut out...WTF? Plugging it back in made the heaters come back on so it's obviously not the moonroof. I spliced into the green/black wire joining the 2 switches and spanned a wire from there to a 10 gauge wire used to power my car computer and also my trunk popper. Then I held the ground wire against a bolt and tried them again.....passenger side worked but driver side didn't. Weird. So I soldered the connections on the power wire piece, held the ground against a bolt again, both sides worked now.....weird.

I left it like that with the ground wire hanging (nowhere near a ground) and the following day I found a bolt, loosened it, applied the ground wire and tightened the bolt onto it. This time the passenger side worked, driver side didn't. WTF?

I thought maybe there was an issue with the wires so I spliced into the blue/white near the switch on both sides and spanned another piece of wire, did the same with the blue/red and also joined a wire from the green/black straight to the battery and tried again. Same thing, passenger side worked, driver side didn't. WTF?

Then I took the driver side switch apart, pulling out the circuit board and toggling the actual switches on the board itself, same result. Did I kill the switch somehow? The motor maybe? How do I check? Thanks.

Okay, I just tried it again right now and it's even crazier. There's a lock button on the driver side that will disable the passenger side when depressed and it previously worked fine. Now when it's up I can work the passenger window from the driver side. But when it's down I can't.....and I should be able to. I swear I got all the proper wires connected but maybe I'll have to pull them all out and check them.

DeX

Scratch everything, I took another look at the schematic and got an idea.

Here's what I had:
- green/black to power
- green/white to switched via mini add-a-circuit

Here's what I needed:
- green/black to switched
- green/white to power

Works perfect now.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Sweet glad to hear you got it working Seems like it's a bigger job than I would have thought!

DeX

I'll finish everything up and do a write-up in mid January.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Dex I moved this over to 7th gen electrical.

DeX

Thanks dude.

DeX

Well now everything is finally done after over a year of working on it here and there.

If you want to do this, here's what you're going to need:
- both door panels so you don't have a hole where the crank used to be
- both switches so you can control the windows obviously
- both motor assemblies
- the plug which plugs into the switch assembly on both sides
- the plug which plugs into the motor assembly on both sides

I ended up taking the entire wiring harness for the power windows from a donor car and cutting out all the crap I didn't need. If you do this, you'll see that the harness on both sides will have a plug going to your switch (needed), a plug going to the motor (needed) and a plug going to your vehicle wiring harness (not necessary). Because I pulled mine from a 2001 and put it into a 2005, the plug for the factory harness didn't fit so I had to wire up manually, not a big deal. If you get one from the same year it should plug right in.

Because I had to wire up manually, and I didn't know which wire converted to which on the other side of the harness, I tied in to the wires directly, here is a schema for the wire mapping from the power window harness:

driver side blue/red -> passenger side blue/red
driver side blue/white -> passenger side blue/white
driver side black -> ground
driver side green/white -> switched
driver side green/black -> passenger side green/black -> battery

Once you get all the wiring hooked up and plug in the harnesses where they go, put the door panels back on and you're done.

Black_EM2

Thank you this helped me a lot

DeX

I'm not convinced this is correct neither, I keep blowing fuses. I'm pretty sure I had it right the first time, green/white to switched.

Black_EM2

I ran a relay to mine. If thats any help. And a 30 amp fuse from the battery. All the powers hooked to the relays

DeX

Okay after reading the schematic again, it's pretty obvious neither of the wires are switched, they both go to power.

Green/Black -> fuse 22
Green/White --> fuse 23

So basically they just need to be fed to the battery on a 20 amp fuse each, is it safe to tap into the fuse panel in any way so they're run properly or should I just get my own inline fuses and run to the battery?

Black_EM2

Whatever I did works, and so far nothing has blown up.