add-a-circuit vs. ? gps/laser jammer/rd install

brokedown711 · 06-27-2009

Just getting things planned out in my head for the upcoming electronics install I'll be doing.

2003 civic lx sedan: beltronics RD above rearview, possible tomtom gps hardwire, blinder laser jammer in the near future, viper alarm since I can't find anyone with an OEM keyless for sale (I HATE cutting factory wires)

For the RD, I have to run a wire across the headliner, down the A-pillar and to the fuse box right? there's no ign. switched 12v in the rearview access panel of the dome light? What circuit should I use? One of those "add-a-circuits" that plugs into a fuse spot and has space for two fuses (one for the original fuse and one for the new circuit)

For the tomtom and laser jammer, would the cig. plug be fine? or just tap into the "add-a-circuit" line?

Also, for the alarm that male spade connector on the fuse box is a constant 12v?

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lowlife9 · 06-27-2009

how about not speeding your car around then you won't need all that and the roads will be a littel safer .

brokedown711 · 06-27-2009

thanks for your opinion, didn't really ask for it though. that still doesn't cover the gps or alarm.

and im not speeding around residential neighborhoods, actually quite the opposite. as for the highway, your gonna tell me you stick to the posted speed limit? at all times?!

there's been plenty of times that i've been alerted with the RD, i was probably speeding by 5-10mph but having a modified + relatively loud car i'd rather not give any officers a reason to pull me over and hassle me.

besides, your assumptions about my intent are grossly inaccurate. having a RD or laser jammer doesn't give you the license or ability to drive around with excessive speed. At most it gives you time to slow down from a reasonable speed to the posted limit.

Consider these facts: officer hits you with laser @ 1000ft, many jammers are defeated and allow "punch through" (or a speed reading) at a distance <= 500ft, the better systems obviously give you more time to slow down (by either overpowering the gun completely, or not being punched through until 100ft or less)

Either way, you need to be relatively close to the posted limit so you can slow down to that speed limit, then turn off the jammer as not to alert the officer you jammed his gun.

.... "the more you know"

lowlife9 · 06-27-2009

just how fast do you plan on going ???

brokedown711 · 06-27-2009

i'll give you the answer you want. 10000 mph. good thing my giant rear spoiler keeps me from flying away.

electric130 · 06-28-2009

the problem with the add a fuse is that the wires behind the original fuse are still only sized for the original fuse. by adding another, you could exceed the capacity of the wire and cause a fire.

brokedown711 · 06-28-2009

that was my concern exactly. so what's the best plan of action here? tapping the ignition wire at the ignition harness (this goes to the ignition cylinder at the steering while right?) and running that to a fused distribution block?

I ran my RD off of very small wiring to the dome light in my last car, I had a fuse right at the tap and never had an issue.. but since I have to run he wire all the way down the pillar and to the dash for this car....

DieMaster · 06-28-2009

Jammers are illiegal to own and operate. a Detector isint.

i got mine and a few other audio things off the cigeret lighter. i wired them behind it so i still have the plug w/o ugly wires hang allover the place.

also i HATE cuting factory wires too. when posible i use pigyback harness. i've made my own for the ECU, and both kinds of clusters i have (hybrid and LED) so i can plug any cluster in my car now and go back to stock anytime. (after updating the milage of course

)

electric130 · 06-28-2009

best solution would be to run a new fused wire from the battery to a relay. use an ignition wire to turn the relay on. then put in-line fuses off the relay as needed. most cheap automotive relays are good for 30A. so you could power all the devices off that. the alarm would need constant power, so you could run that off the battery side.

brokedown711 · 06-28-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieMaster

Jammers are illiegal to own and operate. a Detector isint.

i got mine and a few other audio things off the cigeret lighter. i wired them behind it so i still have the plug w/o ugly wires hang allover the place.

also i HATE cuting factory wires too. when posible i use pigyback harness. i've made my own for the ECU, and both kinds of clusters i have (hybrid and LED) so i can plug any cluster in my car now and go back to stock anytime. (after updating the milage of course

)

No issues with multiple devices on the cig. lighter circuit? what exactly do you have run off that?

RADAR JAMMERS are illegal to own and operate, without the proper FCC licensing I presume. LASER JAMMERS are not regulated by the FCC, but by the FDA (believe it or not).. Only illegal to operate in a state that specifically outlaws them. If you wanna learn more about the stuff check out radardetector.net

I would be very interested in seeing your "piggyback" harnesses for the cluster and ecu.. curious to see how you accomplished this?!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by electric130

best solution would be to run a new fused wire from the battery to a relay. use an ignition wire to turn the relay on. then put in-line fuses off the relay as needed. most cheap automotive relays are good for 30A. so you could power all the devices off that. the alarm would need constant power, so you could run that off the battery side.

Just run multiple wires off the correct relay terminal? I've always considered this but never had enough "gadgets" to require doing so. If I run a power wire for an amp, is it wise to tap that for the relay? or just run two lines?

electric130 · 06-28-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokedown711

Just run multiple wires off the correct relay terminal? I've always considered this but never had enough "gadgets" to require doing so. If I run a power wire for an amp, is it wise to tap that for the relay? or just run two lines?

yeah. a typical relay will have the coil on 85 and 86. that would be the ignition and a ground. 87 and 30 will be the contacts. put an in-line fuse off the battery (like an amp would have, they're cheap from autozone) and run it to terminal 30. you can power your alarm from 30 as you want it constant power. 87 is the switched side of the relay. this will power whatever else you want when the key is turned on. cheap relays and bases:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=330-073

you want this base with the "kick back" diode. when relays de-energize, they have a lot of energy that can damage components. the diode allows this to dissipate safely:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=330-076

shipping will likely cost more than the parts!

DieMaster · 06-28-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokedown711

I would be very interested in seeing your "piggyback" harnesses for the cluster and ecu.. curious to see how you accomplished this?!!!

the harnest thing is finding the plugs. i had to sacrafice a cluster and a ecu to get the maiting plugs. also i'm a OEM nut! so much so that when i make them all the wires must be the right collor.

the hbrid harness has about 15 wires that arnt used and some of them are hooked up to **censored** and **censored** for a project i'm doing. with summer coming up and because **censored** dosent work yet i swaped back my LED cluster so i have engine temp back.

but yea the hardest part is finding plugs and then repining them w/ the right colors.

badhabits · 07-14-2009

Late post..

When I set up my amps, I put a distribution block on the inside of the bottom dash panel (under the steering wheel). Then ran from the DB to the trunk for my amps. This way I could hardwire directly into that distribution block. I used 0G from the battery to the DB, and 2x 4G wires from the DB to my 2 amps.

Now I have easy access to a 12v line when I need it.