It says it's 600 watts at 2 ohms. Can I bridge it , and run 600 though each 12 in. sub i have?
Thanks!
Simple answer is no, you can't have 600 watts rms going to each sub. If you have 2 subs, the most you have to each sub is 300 rms. It depends on how your subs are wired though.
If you have 2 subs, and want to produce 600 rms to each sub, you need an amp that can produce 1200 watts rms.
umm its rated at 600rms at 14.4 volts. theres no way its going to push 777 watts at your cars 12 volts.
Battery is around 14 volts when car is on and it has nothing to do with how many watts the amp can push. If you wire it in parallel @ 2ohm load, it could go up to 750+. It also depends on many other things such as length and thickness of wire, resistance of the subs, single/dual voice coils... etc. Also, companies under-rate their amps and no amps/subs run exactly as their rated wattage. Plz learn some general electric before you make suggestions/comments.
To answer your question, you cannot bridge it. This is a monoblock amp. This means it only has one channel. If you have 2 or more channels, you can bridge it into one. This is NOT one ohm stable so don't even try. If you have 2 subs you can wire them in parallel and it will be 2ohm load. Or you can wire them in series and have a 4ohm load. This is of course, based on the sub(s) you buy and how you want to wire them.
umm i realize that companies underrate theyre amps. and yes, your battery puts out 14.4 volts. but the AMP in the trunk will not see that number. In our car, with a stock alternator outputting 80amps, the amplifier will likely only see 12 volts at optimal conditions (no a/c, headlights, dome lights, power windows etc)
EDIT: The amp is fused to 60 amps. Using some basical electrical formulas of watss = amps * votls, you can conclude that at
14.4 volts * 60 amps = 864 watts.
The birthsheet rating was 777rms, so
777Watts / 14.4 Volts = 53.4 amps. Becaues its less than .5, well round down to 53 amps.
12volts * 60 amps = 720 watts. so 720 is actually a feasible number, although unrealistic because if it exceeded 60 amps, itd blow the fuse. So we know its not hitting 60 amps. So:
lets say:
12 volts * 53amps = 636 watts. still undderated, but thats 318 rms per sub. Thats acutally pretty good.
I realize conclusions have been drawn between amps/volts/alternator output, but it has been simplified for the sake of simplification. If im wrong here, please correct me.
Second Edit: I have an Infinity 611a Monoblock Class D amp. It has 2 sets of terminals. According to the owners manual, one sub per terminal is normal mode @ 4ohms. Using the outer pos/neg terminals, it refers to this as "Bridged mode" This bridged mode should be used in a 2Ohm configuration for a total output of 657RMS @ 2ohms at 14.4 volts. It is CEA-2006 compliant, just like your MTX amp, meeting it has been certified to meet its advertised rating. In nonbridged 4Ohm mode, it runs 465RMS@4ohms. This bridgeable configuration has been confirmed by local audio shops.
Battery is around 14 volts when car is on and it has nothing to do with how many watts the amp can push. If you wire it in parallel @ 2ohm load, it could go up to 750+. It also depends on many other things such as length and thickness of wire, resistance of the subs, single/dual voice coils... etc. Also, companies under-rate their amps and no amps/subs run exactly as their rated wattage. Plz learn some general electric before you make suggestions/comments.
To answer your question, you cannot bridge it. This is a monoblock amp. This means it only has one channel. If you have 2 or more channels, you can bridge it into one. This is NOT one ohm stable so don't even try. If you have 2 subs you can wire them in parallel and it will be 2ohm load. Or you can wire them in series and have a 4ohm load. This is of course, based on the sub(s) you buy and how you want to wire them.
So if the batterys volts have nothing to do with the wattage an amp pushes, then what does? Cause you know, all amps are just magical blocks that produce power from no volts.
Why do you think you need a power cord from the battery to the amp!?!? To power your pretty little LEDS?
silly goose.
Maybe YOU should learn some "general electrical knowlege." the amount of volts the battery pushes has EVERYTHING to do with how many watts the amp can push.
Watts = VOLTS * Amps
But I will acknowlege there is more to it than this...
it has been simplified for the sake of simplification.
Voltage at the amp with engine on will be between 12.6-14.4 depending on vehicle load. That number is tightened up with a cap.
Amp output is not 100% of amp input, there are efficiency issues at hand.
Don't misspell the units if you want to look like you know what you're talking about.
Bridged implies there is more than one configuration. You can't "bridge" a mono amp because there's not two channels (or more) to bridge into a smaller number of channels. The 611a does have two sets of terminals, they are wired internally in parallel as one channel. http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...,_and_Controls
Voltage at the amp with engine on will be between 12.6-14.4 depending on vehicle load. That number is tightened up with a cap.
Amp output is not 100% of amp input, there are efficiency issues at hand.
Don't misspell the units if you want to look like you know what you're talking about.
Bridged implies there is more than one configuration. You can't "bridge" a mono amp because there's not two channels (or more) to bridge into a smaller number of channels. The 611a does have two sets of terminals, they are wired internally in parallel as one channel. http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...,_and_Controls
yea i didnt know how they are wired internally, but on the owners manual, it states using them both as one equals "Bridged Mode." i agree this is not a true bridged mode though.
if you wanna get more techincal, its usually accepted that a Class D amp is about 80% effiicient. The other 20% is lost in heat. So we will take
636 solid watts * .8 (efficiency) and get - 509 real rms watts [probably on the lower side that youll ever see, especially considering its CEA-2006 compliant.
So all in all, its a good amp. But youll never get 1200rms out of it. Also, its unlikeley youll get 1200rms out of your stock electrical system without a cap for extended periods of time. what are the rms ratings of your subs?
For 1200rms:
I reccommend the Kicker zx1000.1
or the Alpine MRP-M1000
i find those to be the most cost effective for that amount of REAL power. Sure you can get a hifonics 3000watt amp, for a little cheaper, but its overrated.
