Deck Relocation *finished* with pics
08-19-2007
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Re: Deck Relocation *Searched*
Why is foos going by his first name Clint but Alpha is still Alpha? I have a name, I am a real person people. BTW my name is Matt.
08-19-2007
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^^^ lol sorry bud. I never knew your first name. So from now on I will call you matt. Sorry big guy
but yes thanks for the help Matt. I think for my next piece im going to use tiger hair and just spot fiberglass where I need too and keep most of the piece untouched and in its stock form. To make it short, im just going to tiger hair the the cage to the piece, spread a thin layer of jb weld glue on it, then a thin layer of bondo. That way I can keep my same shape and texture while having the support I need for my radio. Stock look is the look I want.
but yes thanks for the help Matt. I think for my next piece im going to use tiger hair and just spot fiberglass where I need too and keep most of the piece untouched and in its stock form. To make it short, im just going to tiger hair the the cage to the piece, spread a thin layer of jb weld glue on it, then a thin layer of bondo. That way I can keep my same shape and texture while having the support I need for my radio. Stock look is the look I want.
08-19-2007
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Re: Deck Relocation *Searched*
Fire away in email or PM Don. Or here, its your thread.
Here Matt, this is to keep it simple. Don't say I never tried to help....
Here Matt, this is to keep it simple. Don't say I never tried to help....
Re: Deck Relocation *Searched* 
08-19-2007
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^^ lol. Paints almost there. Should be able to post up some pics. I could post up better ones If i could ever find my damn data cable for my camera!!!!
08-19-2007
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Here are the pics guys, let me know what you think. I know its not perfect but It will get me by until I get my new piece in and redo it. Ill install into car once I get home.
08-19-2007
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It needs some work but not bad for the first time.
I say a solid B+ for a first time with help over the net.
Good job.
I say a solid B+ for a first time with help over the net.
Good job.
08-21-2007
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^^^ alrighty bud I will. I have to take pics of my HID's anyways.
Once again matt thanks for all of the help!!! I thin it turned out alright.
Next one will look better
Once again matt thanks for all of the help!!! I thin it turned out alright.
Next one will look better
08-21-2007
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08-24-2007
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fortunately, you dont have to start over to fix that to the point of looking "professional grade".
you'll need some "tigerhair", "dynaglass" or whatever you guys like to call "short strand fiber reinforced body filler". a quart will do fine and the good stuff wont cost much over $20. You will also need a very stiff spreader, and the plastic ones arent gonna cut it. not unless they are very very stiff. You will need some easy sand finish body filler. I like filler 500 from tap plastics, but everyone has a favorite. Rage gold is a good internet buzzword. finally, you will need some sandable primer and paint. I prefer 2 part primer that uses MEKP, but for small projects like this, the lowes stuff is "ok". better to use the good cans if possible, automotive paint stores will sell the better stuff. Sandable is very important.
First thing to do is to address the gaps between the panel and the dash, as well as the bulbous nature of the finished panel. With an orbital sander with 60-80 grit (60 preferrable), youll knock down a ton of the material. If you dont have an orbital sander, I recommend makita. An orbital belongs in every installres tool chest. its OK if the shape is all wrong, we will fix that. the goal is to have the "high point" of the panel the edges. Next, "mask off" the dash with aluminum foil or painters tape to get a form fitting mask, and put the panel into place. using a standard plastic putty knife, spread the dynaglass between the panel and dash. this will add bulk to the panel and fill in all the gaps. you can always fix shape later with the 60 grit paper. the orbital will be your best friend this project!
Next, we address the overall shape of the panel. This will be the neatest trick of the project. Right now your trim ring is surface mount on the panel, and we can go one step better. We will integrate the trim, and it will look VERY VERY nice. here is how:
mount the radio in place with trim. might help if its in the car.
using dynaglass or 5 minute epoxy or JB weld, glue the trim ring onto the trim piece. all around if you can get it.
remove the radio+trim assembly from the car, we no longer need it. remove the radio by sliding it backwards out of the cage. If this is not posible, then isomount the radio by drilling holes in the cage where the mount holes are on the radio body for mounting. Then break the snap-on tabs that normally hold the radio in place so it will slide out the back of the whole trim.
next, fill the ENTIRE gap between the trim edge and the radio trim with dynaglass. this is why it was important to have a putty knife that is VERY rigid. with a flexible one, smoothing the filler will result in a bowed middle. if the putty knife contacts ANY trim surface other than the very edge of the trim and the pioneer trim ring, use the orbital to knock it down. if you put a hole somewhere, use bodyfiller on the backside. The fiber reinforced filler will ensure there is structure to the layup and prevent cracking.
sand down the highspots. Get the general shape where you want it. You are still justing 60 grit here.
this will leave a ton of divits and low spots on the trim. fill it with the filler 500 or rage gold. step up to 120 grit paper. if you have to sand through the dynaglass, use 60, and you started the filler 500 too soon.
once you have everything PERFECT via 120 grit paper minus pinholling, start with the filler primer. the primer will fix the pinholes if it is a high build paint, and in general give the piece a good finish for paint. 120 grit here too. its OK if you sand through some primer if the surface is absolutely perfect.
then you can hit it with the paint. if your paint is uniform, when you are done with about two cans of many light coats, knock it down with 800 grit wetsand. then come back with a few light light coats. This will give it a little bit of spray texture without being powdery. makes it fit in the car better, and prevents excessive glossiness in the surface.
mount the radio from the back and reinstall. Now it looks almost OEM. and the fact that the trim fits RIGHT UP AGAINST the radio faceplate is just a slick slick benefit.
you'll need some "tigerhair", "dynaglass" or whatever you guys like to call "short strand fiber reinforced body filler". a quart will do fine and the good stuff wont cost much over $20. You will also need a very stiff spreader, and the plastic ones arent gonna cut it. not unless they are very very stiff. You will need some easy sand finish body filler. I like filler 500 from tap plastics, but everyone has a favorite. Rage gold is a good internet buzzword. finally, you will need some sandable primer and paint. I prefer 2 part primer that uses MEKP, but for small projects like this, the lowes stuff is "ok". better to use the good cans if possible, automotive paint stores will sell the better stuff. Sandable is very important.
First thing to do is to address the gaps between the panel and the dash, as well as the bulbous nature of the finished panel. With an orbital sander with 60-80 grit (60 preferrable), youll knock down a ton of the material. If you dont have an orbital sander, I recommend makita. An orbital belongs in every installres tool chest. its OK if the shape is all wrong, we will fix that. the goal is to have the "high point" of the panel the edges. Next, "mask off" the dash with aluminum foil or painters tape to get a form fitting mask, and put the panel into place. using a standard plastic putty knife, spread the dynaglass between the panel and dash. this will add bulk to the panel and fill in all the gaps. you can always fix shape later with the 60 grit paper. the orbital will be your best friend this project!
Next, we address the overall shape of the panel. This will be the neatest trick of the project. Right now your trim ring is surface mount on the panel, and we can go one step better. We will integrate the trim, and it will look VERY VERY nice. here is how:
mount the radio in place with trim. might help if its in the car.
using dynaglass or 5 minute epoxy or JB weld, glue the trim ring onto the trim piece. all around if you can get it.
remove the radio+trim assembly from the car, we no longer need it. remove the radio by sliding it backwards out of the cage. If this is not posible, then isomount the radio by drilling holes in the cage where the mount holes are on the radio body for mounting. Then break the snap-on tabs that normally hold the radio in place so it will slide out the back of the whole trim.
next, fill the ENTIRE gap between the trim edge and the radio trim with dynaglass. this is why it was important to have a putty knife that is VERY rigid. with a flexible one, smoothing the filler will result in a bowed middle. if the putty knife contacts ANY trim surface other than the very edge of the trim and the pioneer trim ring, use the orbital to knock it down. if you put a hole somewhere, use bodyfiller on the backside. The fiber reinforced filler will ensure there is structure to the layup and prevent cracking.
sand down the highspots. Get the general shape where you want it. You are still justing 60 grit here.
this will leave a ton of divits and low spots on the trim. fill it with the filler 500 or rage gold. step up to 120 grit paper. if you have to sand through the dynaglass, use 60, and you started the filler 500 too soon.
once you have everything PERFECT via 120 grit paper minus pinholling, start with the filler primer. the primer will fix the pinholes if it is a high build paint, and in general give the piece a good finish for paint. 120 grit here too. its OK if you sand through some primer if the surface is absolutely perfect.
then you can hit it with the paint. if your paint is uniform, when you are done with about two cans of many light coats, knock it down with 800 grit wetsand. then come back with a few light light coats. This will give it a little bit of spray texture without being powdery. makes it fit in the car better, and prevents excessive glossiness in the surface.
mount the radio from the back and reinstall. Now it looks almost OEM. and the fact that the trim fits RIGHT UP AGAINST the radio faceplate is just a slick slick benefit.
08-24-2007
#51
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and if you have NOTHING to put up high, I'd like to make a suggestion.
There is a dashkit that lets you keep the pocket with the closing door on the bottom of the space. If you dont have the closing door pocket, buy one. They are great.
buy the dashkit, then the universal CD pocket. assemble so you have two seperate CD pockets, one with a closing door.
There is a dashkit that lets you keep the pocket with the closing door on the bottom of the space. If you dont have the closing door pocket, buy one. They are great.
buy the dashkit, then the universal CD pocket. assemble so you have two seperate CD pockets, one with a closing door.
08-24-2007
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^^^^ Thanks white rabbit!! Those are some awesome ideas!! I think im going to have to do that. I might buy a new piece anyways, since on the last one i cut off the top clip 
.
Im going to look into that pocket, thats a good idea.
I dont exactly get what you mean about the trim ring though. Pictures would help or if you have some diagram to show it.
Hit me up on AIM if you want BigDon1000
.Im going to look into that pocket, thats a good idea.
I dont exactly get what you mean about the trim ring though. Pictures would help or if you have some diagram to show it.
Hit me up on AIM if you want BigDon1000
08-24-2007
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wait... i dont feel like reading... why did you do this if you have nothing to put in the stock radio spot... i thought you were going to put in a computer or somthing nice.. but u did it just to do it?????
08-24-2007
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08-26-2007
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my deck was way to hard to see in the stock location. So by me moving it down it was perfect. Also it has less glare, easier to navigate, more convenient, and less noticeable to crooks.
08-26-2007
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:/ i dunno i never had a problem seeing mine. and it just seems like alot of work. and now you have an empty spot :/ if you fill it with something cool 
then it will be worth it
then it will be worth it
08-26-2007
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yep, already working on that. ill have a pocket with a door on it and then another pocket above that one. When i get the **** I need then I will install my xenarc in there.
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