I know this has been DIY'ed several times, but even the sticky didn't cover everything I encountered, so I thought I'd write up what I did. Also, I'm making the pictures as attachments so they won't get lost and turn into little red x's in a year or so like most of the DIY's on here that have pics hosted on another site.
My installation was performed on a 2002 LX Sedan with power windows and door locks. If you have another model, it may be similar, but I can't promise that. EDIT:
Thanks to EggRollBandit05 for providing steps and pics for the COUPE owners out there Speakers
Infinity Reference 6012i Tools Needed
Standard flathead screwdriver
#2 Philips screwdriver
Long skinny flathead screwdriver
Drill (preferably cordless)
3/16" drill bit
3/8" drill bit
8-32 Tap and matching #29 drill bit (can usually be bought as a set for a couple $$$)
Jigsaw Parts Needed
(8) - 8-32 x 1.25" Machine Screws
(8) - #8 Lock Washers
1ft Speaker wire 16 or 18 ga
(4) - Male spade connectors
(2) - Small female spade connectors
(2) - Medium female spade connectors
Here's the tap, drill bit, screws and washers you can pick up at Lowe's.
As you can see here, you've only got about 1.75" of clearance between the top of the door panel and the window. also, the width of the opening is ~4.125" so keep that in mind when picking out speakers. especially if you want components. they tend to have very large magnets.
If your speakers are less than that, then you're good. Go head and mount them. My speakers were right at 2", so I needed a spacer.
A 0.5" spacer would have done the trick, but I had some .75" MDF laying around so I used that for mine. You can use whatever you want to make your spacer. Start by tracing the adapter ring (or the speaker if you don't have one) as a template.
Drill a 3/8" hole in the middle ring so you can get the jigsaw blade in there.
Cut out the spacer and repeat for a second one.
Test fit the spacer on the speaker and ensure it fits. Mark the locations of the 4 mounting holes of the speaker.
Drill the mount holes with a 3/16" drill. This hole is big enough to let the 8-32 screws pass through freely, which is what we want. Again, repeat for the other spacer.
My speakers came with foam, so I installed it on the back of the speakers. I doubt it will help at all, but I put it on anyway.
Insert screwdriver as shown and pop off cover.
Remove 2 philips screws here.
Pull out assembly as shown and remove electrical connector.
In order to remove the assembly, you'll have to remove the door opener rod. Rotate the plastic connector 90 degrees and lift the rod straight up. Compare the pics to see the connector.
Remove Sail Panel.
Insert screwdriver as shown and gently pry off the cover for the door handle.
Remove screw from door handle here
Remove power window connector if applicable EDIT:
Heres a continuation of the panel removal process for the COUPES
The steps are the same up to the removal of the sail panel.
pry up the screw cover inside the handle.
remove the phillips screw.
start from the front and pry up the door handle cover until you can slip a finger inside to pull off the panel.
Disconnect the power window connector and set the cover aside
Now remove the two phillips screws:
Then stick your hand inside the door handle opening and pull towards you to pop out one of the clips.
The rest of the instructions are the same as the sedan (pry up around the edge of the door panel to pop off the white clips) Thanks EggRollBandit05
Insert screwdriver as shown here or anywhere around the door panel edge and pry up just enough to get your fingers behind the panel. There should be around 5-6 fasteners that will pop off. The panel the slides straight up out of the window channel.
To remove the stock speakers without damaging them, insert the long skinny screwdriver into the top and press down to release the clip.
Wiggle the speaker back and forth while pulling up to release the bottom clips. then admire your massive paper driver!
Remove the factory connector
So I didn't have to cut off the factory connector and could reinstall the OEM speakers later if desired, I opted to make my own adapter harness. I only had the larger spade connectors on hand, so I cut them to make them fit. See pic for comparison. If you can get the medium size male's, then you'll be good.
Here's all the connectors you'll need.
Cut the 1ft wire in half, strip the ends and crimp the terminals on to make the 2 harnesses.
Position the speaker and spacer on the door. Ensure that the speaker terminals will not touch the metal of the door panel. Mark the location of one hole. Drill with the #29 bit and tap it to make threads.
Mount the speaker with one screw and tighten down. Mark the location of the other 3 mount holes. I inserted the 3/16 drill bit into the spacers holes to mark the metal. I made a mark on the spacer so I knew where the speaker terminals were. This made it easier when I was reinstalling because unless you drill everything perfectly spaced, the spacer will only really fit one way when you put it back together.
Drill and tap the remaining 3 mount holes. Install the wire harness you made.
Put a lock washer on each of the 4 mount screws. Insert and mount the speaker with 4 screws and 4 lockwashers.
At this point, I turned my car on to make sure that the speaker was working. Once you're satisfied, reinstall the door panel the opposite of how you removed it. The passenger side is essentiall the same with one exception. Removing the electrical connector for the power window has to be done from the back of the panel. Insert the skinny screwdriver as shown to release the locking clip.
Other than that, the install is the same as the driver's side. Enjoy your new speakers. TIP:
When installing the door panels, it's easier to do it if the windows are rolled down. Obvisously, the window control switch needs to be connected for this to happen, so i rolled my windows down before I started. Also, if you're using a different spacer, with the window already rolled down, you'll know right away if the speaker is going to hit the window or not.