I.C.E. & ElectricalPost all your I.C.E. (In Car Entertainment) and wiring questions here. (Audio, video etc.)
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See the larger solder joints near the center ?? The problem connections will in most cases have a black ring around the solder joints. I see some on your board. Use a 30-40 watt iron (avoid a solder gun if possible) Unless you can work quickly with the joints. It will not hurt to do most of the larger connections in the center area. I would also touch up the solder joints for the connector at the board.
Off topic:
Key Keigo,
I just noticed you have heated mirrors. That is cool. Also since you have the DRL switch where the U.S. moon roof switch is. Where is the Canadaian model moon roof switch?
It might actualy be the fogs but I thought that the fog switch was in the center console in front of the shifter. Regardless of what it is where would the Moon roof switch go? It would seem kinda silly to put it in the center.
It is the first link he posted.
Here it is
I recently had this problem with my Civic and I can 100% confirm it the the DRL relay. Its a grey box located under the steering wheel. The problem is a short in the relay causing the solder points to release. It can be fixed your self or just buy a new one on eBay for $30. Takes 2 minutes to fix. This will cause sometimes one of your Daytime running lights to not turn on at all and the buzzing. If you turn your headlights on it will go away. I don't understand why is buzzes under the glove box, but thats the DRL relay.
I recently had this problem with my Civic and I can 100% confirm it the the DRL relay. Its a grey box located under the steering wheel. The problem is a short in the relay causing the solder points to release. It can be fixed your self or just buy a new one on eBay for $30. Takes 2 minutes to fix. This will cause sometimes one of your Daytime running lights to not turn on at all and the buzzing. If you turn your headlights on it will go away. I don't understand why is buzzes under the glove box, but thats the DRL relay.
The little gray box behind the glove box is the daytime running light relay, and the component you solder is the daytime running light control unit. you might need to replace the little gray box too
I had the exact same problem on my '02 Canadian Civic LX (DRL buzzing until you turned on headlights and right high beam inop). If not for this forum and the posting of the fix for this problem I would have been pulling what little hair I have left out of my head. Thanks for the solution of resoldering the connections on the DRL module behind the cruise control switch/side mirror adjustment panel. I resoldered the connections that looked burned and it worked like a dream. Thanks for everyone's help!!
I had the exact same problem on my '02 Canadian Civic LX (DRL buzzing until you turned on headlights and right high beam inop). If not for this forum and the posting of the fix for this problem I would have been pulling what little hair I have left out of my head. Thanks for the solution of resoldering the connections on the DRL module behind the cruise control switch/side mirror adjustment panel. I resoldered the connections that looked burned and it worked like a dream. Thanks for everyone's help!!
thank you for SEARCHING and not just posting a question (like every other noob on here). +1 for you.
__________________ 7thGen.MT.C.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gearbox
alot of people just talk to say something. most of the time they have no idea wtf is going on lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by manahoonie
lol. well we got newbs to use the SEARCH button.... NOW the next step is to look at the date
I am going to give this a try. One Q: How do I pull the panel holding the switches that's covering the DRL module? Don't want to break anything with excessive force.
Well, procrastination (it was intermittent, after all) got the better of me and I put it off till tonight. LOL Changed out the pollen filters and then decided to get into the other side of the dash as well and yank that little box. I thought it would just slip off the mounting bracket but, no. After unbolting it and yanking the PCB, there were 4 solder points that looked cracked and another that looked like it was on its way to letting go. A bit of heat and some solder fixed it right up - no more buzzing! Thanks to everyone for a great tip!
