I.C.E. & ElectricalPost all your I.C.E. (In Car Entertainment) and wiring questions here. (Audio, video etc.)
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alot of these setups are nice, especially the one's where the whole trunk was overhauled for it, but i couldn't do that, i need my trunk space for groceries and what not...i just want something simple but something that looks good and leaves space, right now i have 2 tens in a double ported box (box was free) and an amp. i wanna redo it eventually but with one ten (maybe even a jl audio 8", if those are even still around lol) and an amp
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JL is the way to go for limited space and for a fairly strong, clean thump. I used to have the w1 way back from when they first came out and even after several yrs, they still hit like they were brand new. I noticed a blown one but only when it was cranked, and the highs were turned off. I would recommend a small box with anything from w0, if they make them any more, up to a w3. Once I get the money, i'm replacing the Punch Stage 2's with the 12w3v3's
i remember when the w1's came out, friend of mine had two 15's in the back of his explorer...with the volume quarter the way up it felt like my ribs were being crushed. i don't like alot of bass, i don't listen to rap, i listen to alot of metal so i'm thinkin a jl 8" would be sufficient enough, maybe with a 400-600 watt amp
Whatever kind of sub you end up getting, make sure you match the RMS of the sub to a correct amp. Most of the w0-w3's can only handle 250 watts. That is how my old ones blew, my cousin wired them to an amp that had higher output then what the subs were meant to be played out. Like I said though, they lasted a good 6 years and you still couldn't tell they were blown.
All i'm saying is to make sure you do your research first and why pay tons of money for a nice sub only to get a crappy amp? Go with a jl amp or similar name brand, i.e. alpine, polk, some of the higher ends.
Alpine IVA-W203 head unit.
Clarion 640w max amp
2 crappy pioneer subs.
The subs and amp are old I took them out of my s10 when I sold it and decided to slap em into the car a week or so ago. Sounds okay, I don't mind the stock speakers all that much, I just can't turn it up too loud haha.
I guess Ill add mine to the list.
I have a Kenwood KDC MP638U headunit
replaced all factory speakers w Alpine composits
1 JL Audio 15w3D4 sub
Hifonics TXi7508 mono block amp.
in the pics I have the amp mounted to the floor board. it is now mounted on the back seat with all wires still tucked. Thnx for lookin
- Pioneer AVIC-N2 with CD-VC1 Voice Command
- (1) Load Boss 170 amp H.O. alternator
- (1) Optima Yellow top
- (4) BatCap 800
- (2) KS40 / (4) KS525/ (2) KS65/ (2) KS693 coaxials
- (1) RS65.2 component set
- (2) KX650.4
- (2) KX1200.1 (Stillwater Designs modded, 1610 watts each)
- (4) S12L7s (waiting on the '06s... almost here :-D)
- (1) KQ30 30 band equalizer
- Stinger hardware (cables, fuses, distro blocks, voltage meters, etc.)
- Second Skin "Damplifier Pro" sound deadening
- custom mounted remote gain controls and switches (each amp is given an independent remote lead from one of a pair of relays, as are each set of L.E.D.s)
- L.E.D.s in vents, neon tube under rear deck lid
more at tireunit.com
Kenwood X789 MP3/CD/HD Headunit
All factory speakers are now Polk db components in front and 3 ways in back
2 - MTX Blue Thunder eXtreme 10" woofers
MTX Thunder Pro 400x5 1600Wx5 (400x4 @ 2Ohms, Mono Block 385Wx2 @ 2ohms)
Rockford Fosgate .5 Farad Capacitor
Dynamat'd the whole trunk, rear deck and doors
All cables are monster cable gold plated *BLING YO*
Braile Lightweight battery (which is why i need the capacitor)
__________________ AEM CAI / DC Sports 4-1 / Thermal Research CBE / Crower Stage 1 Cam / Tein S. Tech / Tokico Blue / Neuspeed Front Strut / Neuspeed Rear Strut / RSX 19mm Rear Sway / RSX 27.5mm Front Sway / Jet Chipped ECU / Grey's Endlinks / HKS Engine Grounding Kit
N/A EM2 Crew
So is it like Rodeo Sex? You know, where you’re with a girl from behind and then you whisper in her ear that her sister’s boobs feel firmer and have to hold on for more than 8 seconds.
Whatever kind of sub you end up getting, make sure you match the RMS of the sub to a correct amp. Most of the w0-w3's can only handle 250 watts. That is how my old ones blew, my cousin wired them to an amp that had higher output then what the subs were meant to be played out. Like I said though, they lasted a good 6 years and you still couldn't tell they were blown.
All i'm saying is to make sure you do your research first and why pay tons of money for a nice sub only to get a crappy amp? Go with a jl amp or similar name brand, i.e. alpine, polk, some of the higher ends.
are you saying they blew after 6 years or were blown the whole time??? that statement confuses me. if the subs were blown youd notice because.... well.... they wouldnt work lol
What I mean by blown is that they distort. I could only tell they distorted when i disabled my highs and mids and only played my bass at max. The subs are still bumping to this day and I would put them back in my car, but the cosmetics aren't looking too good on the subs. The ring is slowly falling apart since it was made out of a paper material. Anyway, they aren't blown, just distorted slightly, and would give any average joe that thump that he/she needed
What I mean by blown is that they distort. I could only tell they distorted when i disabled my highs and mids and only played my bass at max. The subs are still bumping to this day and I would put them back in my car, but the cosmetics aren't looking too good on the subs. The ring is slowly falling apart since it was made out of a paper material. Anyway, they aren't blown, just distorted slightly, and would give any average joe that thump that he/she needed
i gotta say ive never heard of subs being "partially" blown before. are you sure you arent the cause for the distortion? eq too high, bass boost maxed out, or gains set way too high, wrong crossover settings?
only thing i can think of would be a voice coil scratching but the sub wouldnt last long after that, if that were happening.
5 CD changers, super nintendo w/7" TVscreen, 4 amplifiers @ 65x12, 350x1, (run at 165x6, 240x1), 12 channels of signal processing, 13 batteries (equivalent to several yellowtops), advanced key (w/ keyless ignition), and more wiring than anyone should ever choose to deal with in one car.
