They only capped the ends that weren't being used, you have to remember that all my stuff is amplified so they didn't need the speaker wires hooked up to anything.
no the wires to the speakers they didnt use were just taped up together, the wires like 12+ and ground and all that were connected with a cap that twists them together, it was acutally a good tight connection but nothing is better than soldering.
Sounds like a wire nut. Those should not be used in a vehicle... Crimp caps, and butt connectors are most commonly used because the stereo can be installed very quickly.
Sounds like a wire nut. Those should not be used in a vehicle... Crimp caps, and butt connectors are most commonly used because the stereo can be installed very quickly.
yeah, i have always used either butt connectors or tap splices and have never had any issues... soldering is a little overboard IMO
Soldering is the "right" way, and the MECP way, but most shops just do not to it, becuase it takes TIME. Theres nothing wrong with using butt connectors inside the vehicle where there is not much moisture at all, but anything done on any part of the vehicle where it gets moisture or elements should be soldered and heat shrunk
true^
also if there is play in the wire like if you were connecting wires someplace where they will move around alot like in a door jamb or anything that will shake/move the wire.
Theres nothing wrong with using butt connectors inside the vehicle where there is not much moisture at all, but anything done on any part of the vehicle where it gets moisture or elements should be soldered and heat shrunk
i just wrap all my tap splices in duct tape afterward, it keeps out the moisture just fine
alright not really... i agree with your statement, though... in those instances solder and heat shrink are your best bet...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ncirom2003
also if there is play in the wire like if you were connecting wires someplace where they will move around alot like in a door jamb or anything that will shake/move the wire.
i agree here, also... not saying i would never use solder, just saying that i have not had to yet... when i wire head units, i cut all the wires to equal length and place zip ties before and after the connectors to secure them in bundles that will not be pulled loose... and i have never had to splice something through a door jamb, etc., i either make the connections at the head unit or they are direct cable connections (amp to speaker, etc)...
I just got my kappa perfect yesterday, man this thing is a beast, i can't wait to build my new box, but i have to finish unpacking and i'll post pics of my home system too, 600w onkyo reciever, 2 15s with baffeld 3 ways, pioneer three ways, and pioneer 6.5 components built into the wall bridged for the center channel. Then i have my computer hooked into my hdtv , then pics of the jam room hehehe, i love my house
Just finished installing this over the past 2-3 weeks:
Pioneer DEH-P6700MP head unit (should have gotten DEH-7700MP)
Infinity Kappa 60.7cs 6.5" components in the front
Infinity Kappa 692.7i 6x9" 2-ways in the rear
Infinity Reference 1040w sub - sealed "truck" box in the trunk
Infinity Reference 5761a (6-channel) amp powering it all (running the sub in bridged mode)
Lessons learned:
With good compenents in the front, there's no reason to even run rear speakers (IMHO).
The 6-channel amp is huge. I wish I would have bought a seperate amp for the fronts and an amp for the sub and placed each under the seats.
In car-audio, as the saying goes "OVERKILL IS GOOD": don't cheap out on the power or speaker wire! I'm running 4 AWG power and 12 AWG speaker and I couldn't be happier (except with maybe 2 AWG power and 10 AWG speaker...)
There is gl@ss in my @SS...
, then pics of the jam room hehehe, i love my house
