For the Front:
SPS-171A
6-1/2" Type-S Component 2-Way Speaker Set
Or
SPR-17LS
Alpine SPR-17LS 6-1/2" Type-R Component 2-Way Speaker

For the Rear:
SPS-170A
6-1/2" Type-S Series Coaxial 2-Way Speaker
Or
SPR-17LP
6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speaker

Two Amps (one for the front and one for the rear):
MRP-T220
Alpine MRP-T220 2 Channel V-Power Series Amplifier

Thank you!

I already have an Alpine 9851.

I have a question about the Alpine 9851 HU. It has three pre outs on the back. One set for the sub, one set for the rear and one set for the front. It also has something called IP-C or something?!? I read the booklet and it told me that I can hook up external amps to the rear and the front. how would i power two small amps? and has any one else done this?

Thank you.

You power the amp with a lead from the battery. I think 8g is the smallest you should use.

i all ready have and sub and amp in the car. i plan on removing the and put the two apline amps in for the front and rear. So I think I already have 8g power wire running to the amp know. Can i run that 8g wire to one of the new amps and from that amp run another 8g power wire to the other new amp or would I just have to run another power wire form the battery?

I would do the type-r's all the way around then the MRPF240 4 channel amp, for all the speakers

iuno man... i can barely hear the difference between r and s..

the main difference AFAIK is in the efficiency of the speakers

were you asking a question in the original post? if so, my answer would be no, not really......

I think what you can do is run a thicker power wire back from your battery to a distribution block that....distributes the power. I'm not sure on that, but I am sure that some of the more experienced members can explain it better....if they feel like it.

Alpine speakers are lacking in midbass IMO so if you are going subless I have to agree with MegaHurtz and say no, thats not a good idea. Go with JL or Focal. Strong midbass on those, and some models can be had for a decent price if you are shopping online.

Sweet, Thanks. I will check out JL and Focal

the install will make or break your setup. However, there are some bass notes no standard speaker could play. Other songs will sound great tho with tight bass like trance. Put dynamat around the speakers and make sure they're sealed from front to back. Even stick a dynxorb pad behind the speaker to reduce backwave distortion. I only have low power infinity reference speakers amped 30wrms and some songs have pounding bass, enough to vibrate the mirror.

What you are gonna want are inffinity kappa perfects, 6 and 1/2 components all around. My buddy has them, except 6x9s in the rear and it sounds like he has 10 inch subs, its rediculous. I cannot remember the exact rms wattage but it is up there, so the only downside is that you need a powerful amp and may need a new battery.

what kind of amp did he was?

Hmmmm, my stock system vibrates all my mirrors lol. =*( I just want a niceley rounded, no sub system that replaces all my interior speakers in my ex lol

I would check out tangband 6.5" speakers for the rear. they can play down to about 40 Hz at low volume, 50ish at high volume without a box. Hang some XTC baffles in the rear deck or even better build an enclosure under there, and youll be able to enhance the low frequency extension even more.

make your car sound like its got a subwoofer without the problems of installing one

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=264-832

I am going subless too. And I have two options.

1) JL Audio XR650 Cxi all around with 4 channel Amp

2) JL Audio XR650 Cxi front and Kicker SSMB6 rear with 4 channel Amp

Let me know what you guys think bout this idea. I am going to visit my uncle in Cali and I think I'll buy my speakers down there cuz there's not much choices of good speakers here in Vancouver plus its pretty expensive here.

I hear nothing but good things about the kickers. if you cant get away from tweeters behind you, by all means go for the XR's all round. theres nothing wrong with doing it, and dont let anyone tell you otherwise.

however, if you are interested in exploring "classical" definitions of high end sound and concepts such as instrument location and focus, I think you will be better off with the kickers.

its certainly all good equipment, you cant go too too wrong with either route.

The type R or S dont fit in the front unless you do a custom job. I know i tried. Not to many speakers actually do fit up there. But I got the type R wedged in the back.

Yeah I needed an air body saw to fit my quarts in the front doors...oh well, it was worth it

Yeah I like both brand bcuz of its quality sound. I'm right now leaning on the XR's all around and amp all four of them.

i got the type r's all the way around, 6.5" components up front, 6.5"coax in the back with 75 rms to each and it sounds great with the alpine cda-9825 hu. i sold my subs to buy this stuff so when i save up i am getting a ported 15" xxx and the infiniti 1210a and infinity 4 channel

chriscivic - what amp are you using to power the speakers?

@ whiterabbit: I have a couple of ???'s

1.) You recommended the JL and Kicker Combo? or All Kicker for more SQ?

2.) Also if setup this way, I plan to add a Sub (maybe 2 10") later. Will the JL and Kicker help my SQ or will I have to replace them for something else.

3.) How will the JL and Kickers sound in a setup that is more SPL (which is what I have now)?

I plan on replacing my fronts/rears with something like what was mentioned earlier and then go for a more SQ type setup. I'll be keeping my Alpine CDA 9851 cuz I like it and its simple to use.

The JL's are better for sq than the kickers, No you wont have to replace them, and they will sound fine in an spl situation as they can take a beating. Back to the original post. I would try going with something other than the alpine speakers. As people have said they are way too deep. I believe the type r components have a 3" mounting depth, and we only have 2" of space. Also on your power wire, run 4 gauge power wire and use a ditribution block to split it to two 8 gauge wires, one to each amp. You can get a fused distribution block if you want a little more protection on your amps, but otherwise they should be fine with their own fuses. Sounds like you are getting some good advice so far and are well on your way. Keep us updated as to what you end up doing

I will do. Now all I need is time to do this stuff! Thank you all for your help.
One more question:
I already have, I believe, 8g power wire running to the trunk. Would that be ok to power my amps? I mean would that be ok to run from the battery to the distribution block and split it to two other 8g power wires, and i will be using fuses in the block! I love to be safe!

Just ordered some SPS-171A. I got a really good deal! $100 dollars brand new!

I would advise you to sell em and get something better... my .02