I.C.E. & ElectricalPost all your I.C.E. (In Car Entertainment) and wiring questions here. (Audio, video etc.)
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Originally posted by Regularjoe Thank god the fuse blew right away, shut the whole system down quick, and saved us. He felt like an ass and we were done for the night. Try finding a 60amp fuse 10PM at night in a small town.
i use a 30 amp blade type circuit breaker ($3.99) i have popped it twice....wait about 2-10 mins for it to reset...then i am good to go again....no problems...lot better than trying to find a new fuse every time....any thoughts?
__________________ i love the smell of octane in the mornin'
Originally posted by AFRunner i use a 30 amp blade type circuit breaker ($3.99) i have popped it twice....wait about 2-10 mins for it to reset...then i am good to go again....no problems...lot better than trying to find a new fuse every time....any thoughts?
yeah...use a 40 amp fuse and it shouldn't ever pop.
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HELP PLEASE!!!
I am hookin up my amp right now and have the factory Hi-Level inputs in the trunk of the car from a previous amp installation. I am trying to hook the high level into a pre amp/RCA concerter but the problem is that the 4 wires that are from the headunit are unmarked. Any ideas? I have tried hit and miss and found that even touching one wire from the high level and one from converter will start the speaker, so I am baffled.
1) I'm using a self-amplified Bass Tube (basicaly the same hookup as an AMP). I'm using the low-out RCA on my head unit for input, I know the power wire goes to the battery with the fuse and I've grounded it. What I'm confused about is where I connect the switch/remote wire and how exactly does it work? Do I need to connect it to anything if I want the amp to turn on with my car? If I don't connect it to anything will my Amp be on even when my car is off? What I want is just my amp/tubes to turn on when my car is on, I don't care about any fancy switches to turn the tubes on/off. Please help me here, I'm such a n00b and so confused.
2) I have no idea what the amps are that I'm pulling, all I know is that I'm using an old Bazooka self-amplified bass tube with a passive bass tube slave running off it and a Pioneer 6500 head unit. What is a good amperage of fuse to use on this setup? Thanks
Originally posted by nitz123us Hey there, 2 questions.
1) I'm using a self-amplified Bass Tube (basicaly the same hookup as an AMP). I'm using the low-out RCA on my head unit for input, I know the power wire goes to the battery with the fuse and I've grounded it. What I'm confused about is where I connect the switch/remote wire and how exactly does it work? Do I need to connect it to anything if I want the amp to turn on with my car? If I don't connect it to anything will my Amp be on even when my car is off? What I want is just my amp/tubes to turn on when my car is on, I don't care about any fancy switches to turn the tubes on/off. Please help me here, I'm such a n00b and so confused.
The remote is just that. It turns the tube on and off as needed. Your deck will have an output just for this. It is a blue wire. There are actually two, the other is blue w/ a white stripe. One is for turning on amps, the other is for extending the radio antenna on some cars. Honestly I can't remember if you want the blue or blue w/ white stripe. If you get the wrong one, the tube will only work while the radio is on, but not for CD. Look in the manual and it should tell you what one you want.
Quote:
2) I have no idea what the amps are that I'm pulling, all I know is that I'm using an old Bazooka self-amplified bass tube with a passive bass tube slave running off it and a Pioneer 6500 head unit. What is a good amperage of fuse to use on this setup? Thanks
Not much power. If I remember right the tubes were class a/b amps and put out 80 watts. With a slave tube they jump to 120 watts, making 60 watts per tube. The newer ones are jumping to 100 and 150 watts, but are class d amps now I think (more watts using less amps). The new ones use a 15 amps fuse from the looks of it. For the power wire just throw in a 30 amp fuse and that should be fine. Honestly the fuse by the battery isn't for the tube, its more to protect the car. If there was ever a short between the tube and the battery, this is the fuse that will blow instead of setting the car on fire. Internally the tube will have it's own fuse to protect itself. Usually you match the fuse or go a little bigger for the fuse by the battery. I have 2 amps, one that has a 40 amp fuse and anther that has a 30 amp fuse. So any fuse 70 amps and above would be fine in my car. I went w/ a 120 amp fuse in case I ever upgrade to something crazy, more amps, bigger amps, etc ..... then I am ready to go without upgrading the fuse.
Does the kick panel (the small panel in front of the sill plate), just pull right off?
There is a hole in this one part of it and it seems to me like that is the part that doesn't want to let go. Feels like there could be a clip in there but I cannot tell for sure...
Can somebody please point me in the right direction?
Yeah there's 3 clips if I do remember correctly. Takes some force, just be careful. Generaly if you see any plastic bending dramaticaly it means you haven't undone something properly. That's the rule of thumb for panel and console removal.
I don't know if this question was already asked...i don't know how to search for it. anyways, I own a '02 civic coupe and i was wondering if anyone knows a good place to ground an amp.
A great place is under your driver's side rear seat on the seatbelt bolt. Remove the tops of the rear seats as in the DIY (message me for tips if you're confused) then remove the little bolt connecting the rear of the seat bottoms to the firewall, then look a little under the dirver's side rear seat bottom to see where the seatbelts bolt in, remove that bolt and then put in your ground wire then tighten again. Provides easy wiring to the trunk as you don't have to go though anything.
