I.C.E. & ElectricalPost all your I.C.E. (In Car Entertainment) and wiring questions here. (Audio, video etc.)
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I just installed the SPX177a ( type X 6 1/2) Its was a bItc# to do but I didn't have to cut any metal. I did have to trim the door panels (round part that outlines the speaker) and couldn't get all the snaps to connect near the speaker, but the door does close no problem. These speaker are 3" deep. I know this doesn't exactly answer you question, but I should give you a good out line. BTW these speaker kick a$$
I used a 3/4 MDF spacer as well as the spacer and grill that came with the speakers to get the clearance needed. I used the grill that the alpines came with to keep the speaker safe from the door panel. If I didn't use the grill the panel would fit but I belive that the speaker would be hitting the door panel.
I dont understand why people dont want to cut the sheet metal in the doors. Not like if it makes a difference and no ones gonna see it. But anyway back to your question, I believe they should fit just need a big enough spacer. I alos used the SPX-177A's in my doors and I love them.
I just started my install of the SPR-176A.... that was fun... cut some metal... almost got the speaker to fit with 3/4 spacer... think it's gonna hit the window though....
I know that if you install SPX-177A with 2 spacers, then the 3 clips in the front will not snap into the panel. I have installed both SPX-177A and SPX-F17M into there without any cuttings. However, SPR-176A is a bigger speaker, in term of the frame(although it doesn't sound as good as SPX speakers--not even get close), it is not going to fit directly into the hole.
then how did so many peeps fit the type r into the door and not have any problems while all spx owners claim their door panel wont go back on properly?
there are lots of people who say the type r speakers will fit with a 0.75" spacer...howcome the spx speakers require a 1" spacer?
btw, i was able to put an old pair of sps-1629 (similar to type s) speakers into my car w/ a 0.75" spacer and not cutting away at my plastic door. i think it might be rubbing slightly but that could be easily fixed by cutting away some of the plastic. so theoretically, shouldnt the SPX speakers fit the door w/ a 0.75" spacer and not cutting the sheetmetal?
I can fit a SPX speaker with a 0.75 but it hits the rear torsion bar. I use both aftermarket spacer and the one Alpine supplied in the box together.
The SPX speaker will make the door not closing properly, but it won't hit the plastic anyway. It's the spacer itself that make this happen. But it also helps to prevent hitting the plastic panel anyway. Both good and bad.
I can fit a SPX speaker with a 0.75 but it hits the rear torsion bar. I use both aftermarket spacer and the one Alpine supplied in the box together.
The SPX speaker will make the door not closing properly, but it won't hit the plastic anyway. It's the spacer itself that make this happen. But it also helps to prevent hitting the plastic panel anyway. Both good and bad.
torsion bar? are you talking about rear speakers? i dont care about the rear ones right now..i can fit whatever back there after the trunk shocks mod.
i'm concerned about the front speakers right now. so only reason the plastic door panel wont go back on is because you made the spacer too wide? i currently have a 0.75" spacer and the door panel goes back on no prob...you can make the spacer exactly the same size as the grille ring, right? also, did the spx align exactly in the same posistion as the stock speaker? if it's not aligned exactly the same way, it's the reason why the door panel hits the speaker?
Sorry, my fault....Not the torsion bar, but the lower door beam.
0.75" spacer is fine for the door, but it is a little too thin for the speaker, either R or X. I had the SPX speaker sit at the center of the hole.
Anyway, I can only tell you that, whatever aftermarket speaker you put into our Vic, it is going to have phase problem. If you have speakers in door, you can align for the midrange by reversing DRIVER'S SIDE woofer polarity(after crossover), then center stage at center of dashboard(then LOWs out of phase). Or you can leave the midrange out of phase by having all speakers in phase(LOWs in phase). I did the research and trial and error for about a year I figured out last night. PM me or IM me if you want to discuss that with me.
That's the reason why I go 3-way.....
