I.C.E. & ElectricalPost all your I.C.E. (In Car Entertainment) and wiring questions here. (Audio, video etc.)
Welcome to civicforums.com!
Welcome to civicforums.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
Hey everyone, during spring break I am going to redo the way my system is presented. Here is what I have in mind. I currently have a JL Audio 12w3v2 in a custom ported box that I built with a big JL Audio logo in red carpet. My two amps, A HiFonics ZX6000 and Alpine M300 are mounted on the back of my back seats. What I want to do is make a custom floor board and get rid of the crappy cardboard one. With this new one I want to make indentions in front of the sub in which to put my amps in and then I want to put some type of durable clear plastic on top and maybe some LED lights later on. Here's my question, i've seen it done before and it should take me more than a few days to do, but I need to know what type of wood I should use to replace the floor board with. Secondly, for the clear covering that goes over the amplifiers, what should I use for that. Glass would proably be to fragile. Is there any type of plastic that can be used that is clear? Thanks for the help.
To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!
Sponsored Links
To avoid seeing this ad in our forum please register at CivicForums.com
By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features.
you can use any wood you want, as long as it doesnt warp on its own, or warp under stress.
Realistically, even this isnt a requirement, as im sure youve noticed how much our stock cardboard flexes!
In the past I have used MDF due to stiffness, as it was we were suspending it three inches above the trunk floor, and we didnt want to have to support the mdf absolutely everywhere. MDF was stiff enough so that only one support per piece was sufficient to keep a level floor no matter how heavy the load was on top, no sagging or bending.
MDF sure is heavy though! If you plan to keep your car as light as possible, there are other alternatives. I like 1/2 inch baltic birch, a 5'x5' sheet can be had for approximately $25, and would be plenty of material to build a floor out of. this will be stiff enough to carry load, strong enough not to warp post-cut, and not require to be supported at all times from many points to maintain a flat surface.
plexiglass is the way to go if you are worried abotu glass breaking. its easier to manufacture and cheaper. the only downside ot plexiglass is that it scratches.
lets say you decide to use .75 inch MDF for your false floor as it is cheap, easy to work with, and plentiful. for the plexi, you cna jsut rabbit out about 3/8's or a smidge less material from around the window you cut, and get the glass or plexi cut to that size, in 1/4 inch thickness. after carpeting the hole, the glass should sit about flush to the floor, no silicone or anything neccesary to hold it in place. Friction is quite sufficient.
as long as your window isnt really large, like 2.5 feet x 2.5 feet or something, 1/4 inch is plenty stong, at least for plexiglass.
and Im sure glass is plenty strong, but since ive never worked with it, iI cant tell you from experience it wont brea or anything. If you are really that worried, you can always get safetyglass.
Also, if I get a sheet of plexiglass, im doubtful that it will be the exact size that I need. Is there any way that I can cut it or do I have to get a professional to do it?
I have a mini makita coordless saw. when my woodblade broke, I went to home depot and found a mini fine tooth blade. turn it normal, and itll finish cut any wood, leaving no roughness.
turn it BACKWARDS< and the blade is now negative rake, making it perfect for plexiglass!
ideally, your sawblade is a negative rake for plexiglass, its more like scratching it than cuttin git. however, you can totally cut plxi with a handsaw and stuff. just go real slow
however, if you have a small circular saw, I might check out home depot for fine tooth blades. reverse em, and youve got yoruself a fine plexisaw
or...just take a sharp Xacto knife and score it . then you can just break it. it's a pretty clean break, and then just file/sand the edge down to smooth. make sure to keep the film on at all times when cutting.
this might be the way to go then, for sure, its easy to scratch plexiglass with no effort at all even using the green side of a normal dish sponge. hate it.
