Help with oem part vs aftermarket
01-09-2017
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Help with oem part vs aftermarket
Im replacing internal engine parts d16y7. Primary question is on the main bearing, rod bearings and piston ring and as much as I want to stay oem but unfortunantly the dealer prices are high. any suggestion on oem similar aftermarket parts or suggestions on which direction to go. Its more of a project to get car running again after older son almost killed the car.
also I took a set of the rod bearings and main bearing to dealer so they can help identify the color code on them, and they didnt look to sure on the answer, they said it look like brown, how do i go on making the right choice Thank you
also I took a set of the rod bearings and main bearing to dealer so they can help identify the color code on them, and they didnt look to sure on the answer, they said it look like brown, how do i go on making the right choice Thank you
01-10-2017
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Help with oem part vs aftermarket
Original bearings were select-fit meaning they can pick and choose slightly different sizes to dial in a desired and very specific range of oil clearances.
If you have a good service manual you can probably find where the specific markings were located on the block, crank, and rods, and use them to determine the original bearing choices.....
BUT now that the engine has a bunch of miles on it----there's a real good chance the crank has some wear and those original factory bearing fitments won't give the desired results (oil clearances).
At this point, assuming the crank is within specs and none of the bearings were spun or otherwise trashed, I'd probably go with a set of regular replacements from one of the reputable bearing manufacturers and check clearances with plasti-gauge.
How so? Ran out of oil? Rods a knocking?
If any bearing spun or was otherwise damaged, forget it. If a main spun, the crank and block need help from a machine shop.....and if a rod bearing let go it probably needs at least that connecting rod replaced plus the crank needs machined at the very least.
Probably cheaper to pick up a decent used engine to freshen up and drop in.
IF a machine shop gets involved with machining the crank, block or anything else, LET THEM GET YOU THE NECESSARY BEARINGS that match whatever work they have done to it.
If you have a good service manual you can probably find where the specific markings were located on the block, crank, and rods, and use them to determine the original bearing choices.....
BUT now that the engine has a bunch of miles on it----there's a real good chance the crank has some wear and those original factory bearing fitments won't give the desired results (oil clearances).
At this point, assuming the crank is within specs and none of the bearings were spun or otherwise trashed, I'd probably go with a set of regular replacements from one of the reputable bearing manufacturers and check clearances with plasti-gauge.
son almost killed the car
If any bearing spun or was otherwise damaged, forget it. If a main spun, the crank and block need help from a machine shop.....and if a rod bearing let go it probably needs at least that connecting rod replaced plus the crank needs machined at the very least.
Probably cheaper to pick up a decent used engine to freshen up and drop in.
IF a machine shop gets involved with machining the crank, block or anything else, LET THEM GET YOU THE NECESSARY BEARINGS that match whatever work they have done to it.
