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We gotta be able to get crower to make them for the lx/dx i know if enough people **** with them they will do it so lets start bothering them with emails
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Ek Hatch H.M.O. B18c + BOOOST!!!! =
so where can you buy these and how much are they? and where is the dyno?
__________________ God Created Turbo Lag to give V8s a chance! Need Vtec? Vtec refils for sale now! Pm me for pricing! Make sure you replace your Vtec every 10,000 miles, Also Available for Domestics
Ek Hatch H.M.O. B18c + BOOOST!!!! =
It looks like a pain but It can't be that bad. I have all the tools now. The final thing I needed was the air hose from a compression tester to pressurize the cylinder and keep the valves from falling. My boss had one that will work. Now all I need are my cam and spring/ret set. Those should be shipping next week. I expect a 10-15 hp gain from the cam. This gain will multiply under n20. I should be hitting consistant hi 13's with just a 65 shot.
__________________ 133.48 whp 117.57 tq all motor untuned dynojet
188.87 whp 187.99 tq 75 shot n20 untuned dynojet
147.5 hhp 130.5 htq all mtr tuned church's dynapack
my old d17 set up.
now swapped k20a2 4.7fd lsd kpro
How's the idling? Mine's idling quite erratically.. If you managed to get your's to idle stable, please let me know what was required to get it to do so.. Tks.. I'm running production Stage 2 btw.. And do you happen to know if I can run Stage 2 with stock valve springs and retainers if I intend to stick to my original rev. redline and use a adjustable cam sprocket to lower the power band instead?
Quote:
Originally Posted by parditty
Hey guys I posted a picture a couple of weeks back of a cam I was installing, it was actually a crower cam that I was beta testing for them. They are now releasing the cam.
My finding with the D17A2 Cam:
Better Rev's over stock, Better mid-range horsepower..
Defiently would recommend a lighter flywheel if your getting a new cam, make sure you replace your vale springs and retainers when you switch cams. Here is the picture below of the crower cam for our cars..
I bet the idle is bad because not enough air is getting in. I would suggest porting the throttle body (www.maxbore.com) and even raising the idle speed a bit. Yes there is an idle set screw that will work. I have pnp head work and mine is a bit rough around stock idle. When I turn on the a/c and idle rises 100rpm, it goes away.
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I've already ported my throttle body.. The idle set screw only goes from 800 to 1500, my mechanic has tried for a pretty long time but he can't seem to get anything in between.. 1500 is a little too much for me You running Stage 2 as well?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gearbox
I bet the idle is bad because not enough air is getting in. I would suggest porting the throttle body (www.maxbore.com) and even raising the idle speed a bit. Yes there is an idle set screw that will work. I have pnp head work and mine is a bit rough around stock idle. When I turn on the a/c and idle rises 100rpm, it goes away.
i still have stock cam but i suspect stage1 won't affect the idle much. You should be able to bump the idle a bit more. One secret trick is to play with the tps sensor, but you gotta have screws instead of the rivets. I know maxbore puts screws on if you sent to him. But i don't know much about adjusting the tps.
__________________
Restore Performance, Reduce Costs www.lubecontrol.com
Are you using the new soy based fp-plus?
________________________________________
Go Here For Real Medicine http://www.youngliving.com/
Member 1025782
________________________________________
Jobs wanted in boulder or louisville colorado.
PM me if you know companies that are hiring.